Business of Fashion

Arthur Arbesser's Playful Rigour

This collection was the designer's most reassured so far: conceptual, yet full of interesting pieces.

Arthur Arbesser has a fascination for uniforms, which harks back to his Viennese roots and memories of his family. This explains the gentle strictness and covertly sexy tone of his work.

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The collection he showed today — very strict, very playful and very kinky, with its flimsy nylons and equestrian booties — was his most reassured so far: conceptual, yet full of interesting pieces such as the knits and the sailor jackets. There's ample room for growth from here onwards.