Jil Sander S/S 2017 READY-TO-WEAR
Rodolfo Paglialunga has been at the helm of Jil Sander for two years now. [...] He took some big risks today. They came in the form of exaggerated volume and fabric play. Paglialunga began playing with the former at his Fall show, but here he really took the plunge, accenting all of his tailoring, many of his dresses, and some sweatshirts, too, with enormous shoulder pads. He said he was after a 1940s-by-way-of-the-’80s look. But if these clothes conjure images of Vetements for you, they did for most of the audience as well. Demna Gvasalia’s influence can be seen up and down the runways; he surely doesn’t have a copyright on shoulder pads. Perhaps if Paglialunga had shown some of his looks without them—he did say that they’re removable—the appropriation wouldn’t have felt quite so on the nose.