Vogue Runway

PRADA: S/S 2017
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“Instead of exploring the history of women, which I have for a while, I decided to take care of now, the present, and trying to find elegance.” Miuccia Prada

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Miuccia Prada’s reaction, this season, was to simplify, declutter, and de-intellectualize. Or so she said: “Instead of exploring the history of women, which I have for a while, I decided to take care of now, the present, and trying to find elegance.”
 

These were her words after a show that in some ways did strip back brand Prada to its innovative, recognizable foundations. The girl in the black tank T-shirt and black knee-length box-pleated kilt who came out at the beginning was a clear reminder of the ’90s minimalism of which the Prada techno-stretch uniform set the pace. But this wasn’t like a literal retrospective at all. There were many reminders of Prada’s taste down the years, like her permanent passion for a ’20s or ’30s Deco-graphic print on a lovely fit-and-flare midi dress, and her abiding obsession with tiny knickers—this time of the high-waist type the 1940s star Betty Grable would’ve recognized.

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