Denim Italiano

Denim Italiano

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DENIM ITALIANO - Italian Denim Makers is a project produced through a special cooperation agreement between Pitti Immagine and Milano Unica dedicated to the production chain of Italian denim, its international reach and the new opportunities it can offer the high-end global market because of its unique qualities.
DENIM ITALIANO - Italian Denim Makers, presented at a special preview during Pitti Uomo 86, will culminate in a striking exhibition-event at Pitti Filati 75 (2-4 July 2014), to then move to Milano Unica (9-11September 2014).
Denim Italiano will be a sort of vertical factory, set up between the Ground Floor and Lower Level of the Main Pavilion under the artistic direction of fashion designer Angelo Figus and product & commercial manager Maurizio Brocchetto and designed by Alessandro Moradei. It will showcase various “denim-suitable” garments and accessories: items from a wardrobe specifically created for the project by a group of the 30 best makers – textile mills, clothing and accessory manufacturers, embroidery shops and laundries – that represent the great Italian denim chain.
All the items displayed at Denim Italiano will be clearly labeled “DENIM ITALIANO – Italian Denim Makers”, identifying the occasion for which they were made and the overall project they are part of. There will be “working corners” all around the exhibition where each of the exhibitors will be able to present their goods to the international audience of designers and style bureau representatives who attend the fair. And finally, a picture-story curated by the photographer Enrico Conti will present the day-to-day worlds, the people, the places, and the work processes of the companies that contributed to making the items on display to give further proof of the great quality, technical knowledge and manufacturing versatility that make Italian denim so highly valued throughout the world.

Angelo Figus

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After having studied architecture and design at the Politecnico di Milano and at the Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, in 1999 together with Silvia Salaris, Angelo Figus founded the brand with his name. It was first presented at the Paris Haute Couture shows, and was later expanded to include prêt-à-porter and accessory collections. In parallel, Mr. Figus designed costumes for the Amsterdam Opera, and was curator of MoMu Fashion Museum Antwerp, Antwerp, also collaborating with luxury fashion brands and consultin for important fashion and lifestyle labels. Currently he is creative director and trend & color forecaster of the Pitti Filati Spazio Ricerca and stylist for the Bagutta men’s and women’s collections.
 

Maurizio Brocchetto

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A textile agent specializing in denim with an office that hosts important international collections, in the 1980s Maurizio Brocchetto opened an all-round consulting studio that assists companies – starting from fabric selections all the way to design and the finished product. With his considerable knowledge of the entire production chain, since 2003 he has been consulting for several firms, working as the creativity/marketing interface. Through his passion for experimenting with fabrics he has recently created sample collections for major Italian textile mills. 

Cristiano Berto

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Started as an assistant designer in a Veneto-region style bureau when he was just twenty years old, and entered the world of denim with the first Erreuno J collection. With a keen eye on product style and design, he works on creating specific concepts for brands. He has worked for many names, especially in the worlds of denim, and provides consulting services to international brands. His method aims at exploring alterative and unusual paths, at developing different details and solutions for the whole product – from the yarn to the finish. 

Kristian Guerra

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With a degree in Fashion Design from Università IUAV of Venice, Kristian Guerra is a creative freelancer who works with many names in fashion design. The undercurrent of his work is major attention to material, to tech-fabrics and to shape – deconstructing the classic proportions and lines of menswear. His main sources of inspiration: memories and experiences, that he combines with contemporary ideas.  

Lara Canal

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Driven by a curiosity about the structure of clothing, and by the desire to manipulate and create, Lara Canal studied to become a pattern-maker. Her profound knowledge of the product and raw materials combined with creativity and eclecticism brought her success as coordinator of style and product bureaus for major international sportswear and denim labels. She also opened her own style consulting studio “Progetto L.C”; fascinated by the world of vintage, she founded the accessory and clothing label, “Bureau de Chance”. 

Lucia Rosin

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Denim is the ideal creative environment for Lucia Rosin: here her knowledge of style and technical matters come together with the ideas – exploring colors, shapes and fabrics – derived from her passions, travel and photography. The constant in her work is sustainability. After various experiences with important fashion brands she founded her own firm, MEIDEA, a creative studio staffed by a team of professionals with international experience in textiles, fashion, design and graphics and a share interest in craftsmanship.  

Maurizio Zaupa

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Always active in the world of denim, Maurizio Zaupa founded the Sealkay Independent brand in the late 1990s. Currently he is style consultant for several fashion labels and creative director for the Massaua – tailored five-pocket pants, and the Recupero brands with a focus on reusing fine, end-of-run denims. His work is characterized by his independent and curious approach, and a great respect for materials and for nature…his major sources of inspiration.
 

Valerio Baronti

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Always attracted to the world of denim because it is alternative, irreverent and perfect for every need, after working with major denim brands, Valerio Baroni launched the Friends of Bruce line in 1999. The brand soon distinguished itself for its ability to break the very repetitive, and only slightly creative American sportswear schemas of the 1980s and 90s. Exclusivity is the fil rouge of all his creations: jeans and military style items with updated fits, embellished with embroidery and studs, printed and mixed with leather Biker gear. Currently, Valerio Baronti is head designer at Replay. 

The 4 themes and the 6 areas of the exhibition

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At Pitti Filati 75
, Denim Italiano - Italian Denim Makers will present a collection of exclusive clothing and accessories that best express the participating companies’ skills and abilities. The four themes will be worked up by seven Italian designers in the collections by: Vero, Palestra, D-segno and Sartoria, and everything will be shown in a traditional exhibition forum.

 
Vero: denim linked to tradition and to the history of work-clothes. Vintage-look treatments and washes inspired by metals, earth and machine grease…
Palestra: denim in a sporty key with different materials. A far cry from the workout suit, the style embraces concepts like fencing and archery, with references to disciplines with unusual aesthetics. 
D-segno: contemporary, minimal and graphic denim. Clean lines, fine detailing and wash treatments that explore the material’s potential for different tactile sensations. The focus is on denim fabrics in Kevlar, cashmere and silk blends.
Sartoria: denim for a formal wardrobe and tailor-shop fabrics: a theme that highlights the changes in our concepts of elegance and in our way of dressing.

 

The project will showcase various “denim-suitable” garments and accessories: items from a wardrobe specifically created for the project by a group of the best makers – textile mills, clothing and accessory manufacturers, embroidery shops and laundries – that represent the great Italian denim chain, ideally grouped into six main areas depending on the peculiarities of their production
 
Here the 6 areas of the exhibition:

1.Weaving:
Albiate 1830, Berto E.G. Industria Tessile, Candiani Denim, I.T.V. Industria Tessile del Vomano, ITALDENIM, Lan Europa, Leomaster, T.B.M., Inwool Jersey; 
2. Accessories:
Dienpi, J-VAL, Redmark, Remmert, Ribbontex, Spring ’85, ZIP GDF; 
3. Laundries:
Bonotto Lavanderia Stireria, Elleti, Itac Lab, Martelli Lavanderie Tessili, Wash Italia; 
4. Manufactorer:
Blue Line Project / Dress Line, BMC, Confezioni Vestire, Ethica, Fais Jeans, Gruppo Tessile Molisano; 
5. Printeries: 
Stamperia Toscana; 
6. Yarns:
Cucirini Rama. 

The involved companies

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Albiate 1830, Berto E.G. Industria Tessile, Blue Line Project/ Dress Line, BMC, Bonotto Lavanderia Stireria, Candiani Denim, Confezioni Vestire, Cucirini Rama, Dienpi, Elleti, Ethica, Fais Jeans, Gruppo Tessile Molisano, I.T.V. Industria Tessile del Vomano, Inwool Jersey, Itac Lab, Italdenim, J-VAL, Lan Europa, Lavanderia Martelli, Leomaster, Redmark, Remmert, Ribbontex, Spring ’85, Stamperia Toscana, T.B.M., Wash Italia, Zip GFD.  

Albiate 1830

Albiate 1830 is a historical brand with a worldwide reputation for making sporty, jacquard and denim shirt fabrics, for constant innovation, unceasing style research and eyes focused on the future. By combining the group’s know-how in terms of quality, structure and patterns in shirt fabrics with the features typical of indigo, Albiate 1830 offers is denim in all styles, from the classic to the sporty to the trendy. 

Berto E.G. Industria Tessile

Berto Industria Tessile, is historically rooted in Italy: it was founded in 1887 in the Padua district and thanks to an unceasing desire to keep pace with the times, it became a market success. Over the years, the company has enriched and modernized its denims with super-stretch and basics, textured and coated fabrics, with ever-new finishes – all the way to printed and specific-performance fabrics created in cooperation with the clients so that each product can justifiably be called “custom made”.

Blue Line Project / Dress Line

Blue Line Project/Dress Line was born in 2006 with the aim of offering products and services to those brands that do not have in-house R&D, purchasing and manufacturing and turn to the outside while remaining true to their labels’ features. The challenge is to make items that satisfy even the most unusual requests while maintaining high quality day after day. The focus is on woolens, stretch denims, cottons and on using them in a single garment. 

BMC

Exclusivity, versatility, quality and promptness are the key words to define this group that specializes in women’s wear. Denim processing, one of the strongest aspects of their entire production chain, is carefully monitored by professionals – all the way from making the garment to the wash finishes.  

Candiani Denim

A small firm that manufactured work-clothes: this was Candiani Denim when it was founded in 1938. A few decades later, in the 1970s, Candiani decided to devote all its energy to making denim fabrics. From that moment on, the company never stopped investing in improving its product that was born as a “basic” and has become increasingly sophisticated. Made in Italy, sustainability and innovation are the key points of the philosophy of a company that still today owns one of the most modern industrial machinery in the production of denim. 

Bonotto Lavanderia Stireria

Bonotto was founded in 1982 and evolved rapidly during the “golden years of denim” when the five-pocket versions came onto the scene and became the giants of Italian denim-wear. This firm is a true laboratory/workshop that can develop unique textures and treatments, and can support other companies through all phases of their production: from washing to delivery to the sales point. 

Confezioni Vestire

“Vestire” has been in the business of making mainly denim slacks for women for nearly 40 years; and during this time production has also expanded to include denim for men. Part of the Gruppo Lanicificio Europa, Confezioni Vestire has carved out an important place for itself on the world’s markets. All this has been made possible thanks to research and the development of new techniques and materials – which in addition to denim includes wide scale use of leather. 

Cucirini Rama

Founded in 1971 as a small workshop dedicated to making cotton sewing thread for the garment industry. Starting from this totally craft phase, offering quick deliveries and high quality, in the 1980s the company underwent a conversion to become a true industrial company. More than thirty years have passed since then and today, Cucirini Rama, a leading name in the textile industry, keeps to its high quality standards, has increased its product range and offers a vast choice of colors.  

Dienpi

This company, that is deeply concerned with the environment, designs and manufacturers accessories for the Italian and international clothing and footwear industries. Tags, labels, adhesives and small leather goods are the main focus of their product line. It is a young firm – established in 2011 – that offers highly customized items created to meet their clients’ needs such as a latest generation chip that can be put into labels. 

Elleti

Founded in the 1980s in the wake of the early piece-stone-wash finishes for denim, this dynamic company located in north-east Italy can now meet all the needs of the world’s leading brands with a full range of services: from treatments to dyeing to washing, from prototypes to sample collections to large-scale production, to import-export. The company is also dedicated to research on environmentally sustainable process, part of its ongoing development. 

Ethica

Experimentation and innovation are the mainstays of Ethica, a company founded by Giuseppe Bacchiocchi in 1979 and specializing in the manufacture of high quality clothing. The company’s strong points include flexibility and versatility in terms of product type and production volume. Over the years, Ethica has entered into partnerships with luxury and fashion brands. 

Fais Jeans

This is a company that does it all in the field of coats, jackets and pants for men, women and children: prototype design, modeling and sewing, sample collections, identifying and eliminating defects and fabrication of the “pilot piece” before launching production. Cutting, sewing, washing, pressing, quality control, packing and shipping – all done with commitment and professionalism, and the use of high technology equipment. Fais Jeans specializes in primarily denim and cotton sportswear. 

Gruppo Tessile Molisano

A true creative workshop where professionalism, style and know-how come together and give life to highly original collections. The Gruppo Tessile Molisano devotes special care to all the processes involved in making its products and in particular to the latest advances in denim treatments and finishes. Their products, made with the latest equipment, are distinctive for the way they keep up with market trends. 

Inwool Jersey

This company was started in 1994, manufacturing knitted textiles for the clothing industry. Growing constantly, in terms of product and turnovers, Inwool Jersey has acquired a leading position in the medium-high segment of creative and technologically sophisticated collections. Working with a vast range of raw materials selected solely from qualified European partners, season after season, Inwool Jersey presents ever-new collections with a balance blend of fashion content and Made in Italy quality. 

Itac Lab

Creativity, dynamism, innovation and contamination are the bywords of the group that accepted the challenge of endowing classic products with a lease on life. Denim and hi-tech come together in a unique and original product. Concern for the environment and the desire to boost agriculture in the Marches prompted the use of vegetable dyes, and 0 km dyeing. 

ITALDENIM

Founded in an old hamlet in the Province of Milan in the mid-1970s, ITALDENIM is known for its entirely Italian manufacturing that has its roots in traditional U.S. denim production. History and innovation come together to make excellence. Using advanced machinery, ITALDENIM makes one meter of denim with zero environmental impact. 

I.T.V. Industria Tessile del Vomano

This company is strongly dedicated to respecting the environment and to the use of last-generation technologies all aimed at creating clothes with a strong personality. I.T.V.’s output is distinctive for its perfect blend of vintage concepts and attention to contemporary trends. This group knows how to interpret the signs of the times using the most original dyes to give their products a unique and special identity. 

J-VAL

Established in 1971, J-VAL quickly carved out an important niche on the accessories market, meeting the challenges of an increasingly globalized world. With an enormous flow of creative energy J-VAL offers a complete range of buttons, and not only, in a variety of materials and with unique finishes, including custom laser embossing: invisible, but perceptible luxury. 

Lan Europa

A 50-year family tradition in the field of textiles, and a leading position as makers of high quality super stretch cotton are the distinguishing features of this group. Hi-tech creations embrace the entire production chain, from making the yarn to the finished garment – and always with a clear focus on the clients’ wishes.

Martelli Lavanderie Tessili

Established in the mid-1950s as an artisan dyeing shop and laundry, Martelli has always been in close contact with the world’s renowned designers and creative heads. The company developed all the treatments and finishes that have characterized the development of denim fashions all the way to designer and haute-couture jeans. The company that is constantly seeking excellence in aesthetics is also know for its environmentally sustainable production methods. 

Leomaster

Innovation, creativity and research are the key words to describe this firm which for over 30 years has been focused entirely on new technologies and new processes to reinterpret traditionally classic fabrics and styles through special weaving, dyeing and finishing processes. This ongoing research has allowed Leomaster to develop exclusive and sophisticated denims for manufacturing clothes that are always in step with fashion and current trends. 

Redmark

Novelty: this is the backbone of the company’s philosophy and output. Constant research, new materials, modern and particularly advanced processes combine with meticulous attention to detail and the desire to create unique and exclusive products. Redmark, with a particular attention to ecology, specializes in printed tags, leather labels, printed and woven labels, embroidered and metallic patches, and packaging.

Remmert

Attention to detail and to quality are the foundations of Remmert’s product philosophy. One of Italy’s leading makers of rigid and elastic ribbons, the company is also active on the international markets. With a vast product range that goes from labels, accessories, elastics and ribbons all the way to the innovative item called Comfort that is a true revolution in woven ribbons. And the looms are the company’s heart and soul: historic looms work alongside of the latest, computerized models to guarantee high output as needed. 

Spring ’85

It all began in 1985, manufacturing accessories for the clothing industry – buttons, snaps and rivets – and the dream of making garments for companies throughout the world. Developments in fashion also allowed the button to change from merely functional to ornamental, and become evermore complex and valued. Thanks to ongoing investments in research, Spring ’85 has turned its products into design accessories that can give any garment a special added value. 

Ribbontex

Active on the textile market for over 25 years, the group’s products are characterized by uninterrupted research and experimentation. Ribbontex specializes in rigid and elastic ribbons, jacquards, ropes, woven labels, printed and embroidered ribbons in the field of accessories, clothing and shoes. There is also a specific sector that is focused on leather processing. Each product is in step with the latest fashion trends while maintaining top quality standards and quick delivery terms.  

Wash Italia

Craftsmanship and advanced technology are the hallmarks of this firm that is the fruit of long experience and entirely Italian creativity that is expressed in an international language. Experience, a true knowledge of fabrics, of the materials and processes are the basis of the experiments that embrace the world of denim and beyond. Wash Italia has also established a Denim Museum as a repository of inspirations for new ideas that have their roots in tradition. 

T.B.M

The “T.B.M. Blue” collection is the pride of the entire group. It is a unique collection of denims in different weights and for different purposes: from shirts to coats. Indigo cotton is blended and mixed with noble natural– linen, silk, virgin wool, and cashmere, as well as artificial – viscose, cupro and lyocell fibers. It is a well-tested and proven technique that offers the world of denim new opportunities for growth.  

Stamperia Toscana

Stamperia Toscana was founded in 1990 and over the years has developed new and unique processes to be able to offer special and personalized products, creating collections for famous designers and for textile mills. Stamperia Toscana has a vast sample collection of different kinds of printed fabrics and can offer exclusive, customized patterns as well as made-to-measure dyeing and finishing services. 

ZIP GDF

This company is continuously committed to towards the improvement of the concept of the zipper, to create a new, totally Italian, look where technology and emotions come together in a single product. ZIP GDF has another strong point: eco-compatible raw materials and processes. The principle of environmental sustainability is the basis of their manufacturing and their new, high-tech and eco-friendly products. 

Picture-story

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Pictures, by Enrico Conti, has been shooted in:
Albiate 1830, Candiani Denim, Blue Line Project / Dress Line, Stamperia Toscana, Bonotto Lavanderia Stireria. 

Special thanks to

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3Chic, Dalde, Dipama Italia, Filippo Terzi, Filtess Export, Project, Serigrafia Bernardi, Shima Seiki Italia, Smart Leather.

Set-up by Alessandro Moradei. 

Designers' portraits are by Enrico Labriola.