Every Bottle of Perfume Contains a World
An olfactory map of perfumes and flavors
from all over the world built through the faces, the hands and the work of people that grow extraordinary raw materials which create precious essences. An exhibition curated by Chandler Burr
AFRICABack to top
YLANG EXTRA OIL LMR
Cananga odorata (Lam.) Hook. f. & Thomson
Ylang trees bloom all year long, but they produce more flowers during the dry season, from April to September. These flowers are picked early in the morning and distilled. The distillation lasts about 20 hours: as the oil comes into the receiver, it is separated into several fractions of about 30 grams, which are set aside separately. The first fractions have the highest density: it’s ylang extra. The 2nd tier is called Ylang premiere, followed by ylang IInd and IIIrd.
GINGER OIL LMR
Zingiber officinale Roscoe
While dry ginger is widely used for perfumery, LMR uses fresh ginger, to obtain that fresh, wet smell of just cut ginger.
Pelargonium graveolens L’Her.
Jasminum grandiflorum L.
TAGETE OIL LMR
Tagetes minuta L.
Tagete is a small plant, which is replanted every year. One waits for the flower to bloom. When it does, the plant is cut off and everything is used for distillation.
MYRRH RESOID MD LMR
Commiphora myrrha (Nees) Engl.
In Ethiopia, the tradition of incense and myrrh collection has existed for thousands of years. The trees grow in desert areas, and nomadic tribes stop by them and make an incision. From this wound inflicted on the tree, oozes a sap. One or two weeks after the incision, the nomads collect the gum which will have solidified on the trunk.
VANILLA BEAN LMR
Vanilla planifolia Jacks
To obtain vanilla pods, the vanilla flowers are first pollinized manually from August to September. The pod then develops in the next 10 to 12 months. In June-July of the fllowing year, it is ready to be picked, while still green. It is immediately boiled for 3 or 4 minutes, then cured: it’s left to bake in the sun 4 to 6 hours per day, then wrapped during the night in warm blankets to continue the baking. This allows the vanillin precursors to develop. After 3 months, it’s ready to be extracted when it reaches a humidity level of 22-23% and is completely stable vanillin rate of 1,8/uv minimum.
Cedarwood oil comes from the woodwork or cabinetmaking industries. Indeed, these industries use the wood itself, and discard a lot of wood shavings, which are wasted if not used. LMR uses those shavings and distills them to obtain cedarwood oil.
Citrus aurantium L.
The orange tree, citrus aurentium, is particularly generous : all of its parts can be used for different purposes, from the twigs and leaves, to the flower, and the fruits. Orange flower is harvested during 3 short weeks, in the spring: women very quickly and delicately pick the flowers, which are brought to the plant. Like the brother, orange flowers can be either distilled: it’s the neroli oil; or extracted: it’s the orange flower absolute.
AMERICABack to top
TONKA BEAN ABS LMR
The leguminous seed of the Tonka tree Dipteryx odorata, a large rainforest tree (growing to more than 120 feet high) native to South America and belonging to the pea family--have sometimes been used as a substitute for vanilla. Tonka beans have an incredibly sweet fragrance and flavor which is reminiscent of vanilla, almonds, cinnamon and cloves.
Elettaria cardamomum Maton
Cardamom is a spice widely used in the South American. To produce the oil, one used the seeds contained inside the pods.
Vetiveria zizanoides L.
Vetiver is manually collected, or with an ox-pulled cart. Farmers pull the roots from the ground, and dry it first, to let the soil around the roots disintegrate. Vetiver roots must spend at least 2 years underground before they can be pulled out.
CEDARWOOD HEART LMR
Juniperus mexicana Schiede
ASIABack to top
MAGNOLIA OIL LMR
Michelia x alba DC. (syn. Michelia longifolia Blume)
Magnolia grows in the Guilin region, in China. The flowers are hand-picked when they reach maturity, before they open up. The main market is tea: flowers are dried, and used to flavor local tea. LMR carefully selects its magnolia flowers, choosing beautiful qualities which are not mixed with leaves.
Sambac Jasmine grows in India, where it is mostly and widely used for religious rituals and ceremonial necklaces. Perfumery only uses a tiny proportion of the total production of Indian jasmine! LMR extracts a beautifully fresh quality, strongly reminiscent of the smell of the flower in the field.
TUBEROSE ABS LMR
Polianthes tuberosa L.
Just like Sambac Jasmine, these beautiful small fragrance flowers are used mostly for ceremonial necklaces in India. Flowers are picked while still a bud, very early in the morning, since necklaces can only be made with the buds. Once picked, they are brought to the plant, and are aerated to avoid fermentation, while the flower is left to bloom before extraction.
In Sumatra, there is a very traditional nomadic tradition of patchouli culture. Farmers clear a surface in the forests, and burn waste which will be used as a natural manure. They leave the ground to rest for 2 months, and come back to plant the plantlets, which are shielded from the sun in the beginning. They are then left to grow without any interaction for a couple of years. Farmers then come back, and pick the planted patchouli. They distill on the spot, in portable stills which can be completely dismantled in 30 minutes.
EUROPABack to top
BLACKCURRANT BUDS ABS LMR
Ribes nigrum L.
Blackcurrant bud is harvested in Burgundy in the winter, after the appearance of the first frosts. Harvesting machines, developed by LMR, and inspired by cereals harvesters, cut the branches, and immediately cut out the buds from the branches.
CLARY SAGE OIL LMR
Salvia sclarea L.
Clary sage is harvested in July, when the summer heat is at its peak. Farmers wait for droplets to appear on the stem of the plant. These droplets show that the plant has reached maturity and can be harvested. They are then cut off, and left in the heat for 2 or 3 days. The heat develops the precursors of the essential oil, which starts to ooze from the stem. This is when beautiful, ambery notes start developing.
Acacia dealbata Link.
Mimosa is one of the only flowers to bloom in the middle of the winter. Comes February, the South of France is constellated with those radiant yellow explosions. The perfumery variety is not cultivated; it grows in the wild in natural parks.
Narcissus poeticus L.
LMR is the only supplier of narcisse absolute for perfumery. This beautiful innocent looking flower grows in the wild, in the plateau of Lozère. It used to be harvested manually, with a comb to delicately lift the flowers. Today, we use a mechanical harvesting machine to sustainability harvest the flower.
CORIANDER OIL LMR
Coriandrum sativum L.
Ciste grows in the wild and is not cultivated. Its leaves are very thin and delicate, and its flower blooms in the spring. In the summer heat, the plant has adopted a strategy to avoid the evaporation of its essential oil: it develops a resin which coats the outer layer of the plant, and which keeps its moisture. In the summer, it develops a large quantity of this resin. If the plant is distilled, we obtain ciste oil. Labdanum is obtained by detaching the resin from the plan, and extracting that resin.
Lavandula angustifolia Mill.
LMR carefully selects the most floral lavender oils, harvested in the middle of the summer in Provence, in the South of France.
Immortelles grow in the sands and dunes, in warm climates. It is a wild plant, which forms a bush. In the summer, the flower dries up, and the complete bush is harvested to be extracted.
ROSE OIL LMR
Rosa x damascena Mill.
Turkish Damascena Rose is the queen of perfumery flowers. Harvested in May, in the Isparta region, it is cultivated by hundreds of families of farmers, who patiently pick, one by one, the delicate flowers, and bring them to the plant to be distilled for the Rose Oil, or extracted to produce a Rose Absolute.
OCEANIABack to top
Santalum album L.
Indian sandalwood is an ingredient used since thousands of years, for religious or beauty rituals, in India and all over the world. The extensive use of the ingredient has unfortunately led to a depletion of the Indian sandalwood forest, which is now seriously endangered. LMR had partnered with TFS, an Australian company, which has planted millions of Indian Sandalwood trees in Australia, to propose a sustainable alternative for this beautiful product. Today, this Sandalwood Album from Australia is grown, harvested, and extracted sustainably in Australia.