Style Notes

Fragranze

14-16 September

Firenze

Personal notes for an authorial journey

The world of fragrances turns green. A journey through bio perfumes, 100% natural ingredients and essences, cosmetics with no parabens or mineral oils.

(read more)

When a parfum describes a journey

Wearing the perfume of a much-loved place is a bit like being able to always see it in your mind. From the memories of summers spent in wonderful holiday destinations to recollections of exotic journeys and dream islands. And the allure of the modern day metropolises.

(read more)

Being a Parfumeur

They are eclectic and original, they are dictating the new trends and rules of artistic perfumery. They are the enfants terribles of fragrance and the great noses who are carrying on the traditions of world-famous brands.

(read more)

Green Passion

The world of fragrances turns green. A journey through bio perfumes, 100% natural ingredients and essences, cosmetics with no parabens or mineral oils.

Agonist distributed by Intertrade Europe

Design and purity are combined in six unisex fragrances inspired by the Nordic climate and culture and made using 100% natural essences: Agonist, the product of scrupulous work by master perfumers is enclosed in regular sculptures, unique pieces created exclusively with multi-award-winning glass designer Åsa Jungnelius of Kosta Boda, an historic, world famous workshop and design studio. Kallocain is the first Agonist fragrance and was inspired by a Karin Boyes story that speaks of desire, jealousy and control. The Infidel and The Infidels each tell a passionate story through their head notes of patchouli, amber and labdanum. To simplify complexity, to oppose useless ornaments and to free our true feelings through ancestral contact with the elements of nature: these are the goals of Honoré des Prés, the first brand to present a range of Organic Perfumes that are Ecocert certified 100% natural. New for 2011, “Les Verrines d’Honoré”. Like delightful, tasty jars of homemade jam, Les Verrines d’Honoré are 4 fragrances that transform simple ingredients into sophisticated products, offering an emotion-filled experience.

A desire to create fragrances that can break through the frozen standards of luxury has led to the creation of Undergreen®, a brand by Patrice Cardenoso and Jérôme Bonnet: a new generation of perfumes designed to fill the gap between traditional perfumery and aspirations for a natural sense of pleasure. Realized solely using a Chimie Naturelle® base, i.e. 100% natural materials and processes, with the support of eclectic perfume creator Fabrice Olivieri, the Undergreen® line is immediately politically incorrect. The two creations are White - an expression of feminine purity that is as light as air - and Black - a punchy and seductive statement of masculinity.

Products made exclusively using natural raw materials with elegant packaging featuring rows of pearls, lace, delicate silver arabesques screen-printed on white boxes and glass bottles with essential lines. This is the collection designed by Simone Cosac,a businessmanof Brazilian origin, Florentine by adoption. There are three product lines: Perle di Bianca (a line of perfumes and body products inspired by the Renaissance noblewoman Bianca Cappello), Trama, with its exotic magic and Atelier, a line of strictly natural ambient fragrances.

A sensorial journey through the Ayurvedic, Balinese and Taoist cultures: Cinq Mondes reunites, under the same name, a careful selection of treatments and methods inspired by ancient customs and traditions dedicated to wellbeing. To guarantee the authenticity and effectiveness of their products, Cinq Mondes has prepared a “Natural Laboratory Charter” based on 5 formulation principles: a selection of organic or natural ingredients, without parabens, phenoxyethanol, silicon, mineral oil or artificial colorings and tested through dermatological controls.
Carasana cosmeticsare available with the bio-certified fragrances of 4 noble essences – Bergamot, Damask Rose, Neroli and Lavender – which have always been used in haut de gamme Italian perfumery. Carasana offers an invitation to discover their virtues through the thousand year old wisdom of Ayurveda and aromatherapy and to lose oneself in the allure of these ancient fragrances cultivated using organic methods, rediscovering the perfume of natural essences.

Patyka Cosmetics distributed by Beauty San

Years of research have led Patyka – the Parisian cosmetics manufacturer offering products of botanical and pharmaceutical origin – to discover hundreds of forgotten rare formulas and plants. These natural potions are the heritage that inspires the products presented by this fragrance house. Particular attention is paid to environmental protection and all the products are certified by the Cosmébio and Ecocert associations since they contain very high quantities of natural and organic ingredients.

With cosmetic treatments gleaned from the most advanced Japanese biotechnology and patented active ingredients, Annayake aims toestablish a personalized beauty dialogue with every client. There is a focus on specific beauty treatments, such as the innovative Soin de Nuit Extrême – that combines three active ingredients: pearl extract, glycogen and extract of Komenuka or rice bran - Soin Contour del Yeux from the Men’s line or the new An’na Annayake fragrance, which is making its debut at this edition. Annayake is able to guarantee the complete safety of all its products because the raw materials and production processes are located in ambients protected from any form of contamination.

If in ancient times Cleopatra used to bathe in goat’s milk to keep herself beautiful, today she would use colostrum, the first nourishment a mammal receives after birth. No other product in nature contains a cocktail with such a high concentration of nutritional substances for the skin. Colostrum is only available in the 48 hours after birth and is extracted by Immupure from monitored cows after they have fed their newborn calf. The Immupure anti-aging facial products contain a unique compound, obtained from natural colostrum, that can fight the signs of aging without toxins, lasers, injections or chemical-based peeling treatments. The patented method involves cold sterilization to preserve the product’s properties. Immupure products are made with natural ingredients of the highest quality, they contain no parabens or mineral oils, and are not tested on animals.

The green aspirations move from cosmetics to the world of detergents for clothes and ambients. The Laundress is an innovative line of detersives and products with natural ingredients: with no chemical additives, synthetic fragrances or petroleum, they work using enzymes, essential oils and natural optical whiteners that are designed to be eco-friendly and to delicately take care of your clothes. The innovative unmissable Wool&Cashmere Spray combines special ingredients such as keratin, to nourish and protect fibers, with essential oils of cedar, a perfect natural moth repellent.

When a parfum describes a journey

Wearing the perfume of a much-loved place is a bit like being able to always see it in your mind. From the memories of summers spent in wonderful holiday destinations to recollections of exotic journeys and dream islands. And the allure of the modern day metropolises.

Created by Xavier Torre, a tribute to its roots and homeland, named for the Moor’s head on the Corsican flag, Testa Maura – the first line of 100% Bio Ecocert fragrances – is a hymn to Corsica’s primeval, harsh, wild and unexplored power. The Bucolica line brings us 5 rich, unexpected and visceral Eaux de Parfums that literally overturn classic olfactory patterns: Aleria, Loriani, Aqua di Casta, Carticasi and Mia Murza. The new features include the Capo di Feno line of body products characterized by d’Immortelle Bio essential oils and a collection of 8 scented Primu Spiritu candles.

With the new 2011 fragrances inspired by locations on the Mediterranean and beautiful seaside localities, Floris offers connoisseurs two new golden fantasies to enrich the Private Collection: Sirena and Mahon Leather. Sirena is a tribute to Minorca and the warmth of the Mediterranean. A cool sea breeze precedes a shining heart of Oleander, Peony, Rose and juicy Berries, lying on a bed of Musk and Sandalwood. Whilst Mahon Leather, the men’s eau de parfum, focuses on the “wild” side of Minorca.

D600 from Carner Barcelona is a perfume that represents an urban lifestyle and the Mediterranean spirit of Barcelona. The morning buzz of the city combined with a breeze blowing through an open window. The Ramblas and the Boqueria, filled with noise and emanating the odor of bouquets of flowers, bunches of fruit and mountains of spices dispersing exotic aromas into the air. And, at night, the spasms and jolts of a city that is discovering its mysterious, sensual side.

Launched as a trend concept store in the East Village for established brands and young fashion talents, Odin New York draws its inspiration from exotic destinations, taking an olfactory journey through modern interpretations of noble traditional fragrances. Warm oriental notes for 01 Sunda, fresh green citrus fruits for 02 Owari, transparent woods for 03 Century and an explosion of spices and flowers for 04 Petrana.

The perfumes of the Amouage collection, the international luxury fragrance house of the Sultanate of Oman, are characterized by harmonies that recall the Orient through ingredients such as incense, oriental roses and exotic woods. Adopting an artistic approach to offer an exciting experience, these fragrances are created by internationally famous perfumers guided by the creative director Christopher Chong. Honour, Amouage’s latest creation, pays tribute to the story of love and betrayal in Giacomo Puccini’s masterpiece: Madame Butterfly.

A single nose, Bertrand Duchaufour, for 8 numbers, 8 perfumes, 8 different moods and 8 destinations. The new Mon Numéro from L’Artisan Parfumeur is like a collection of objets d’art, an unusual gallery of diverse perfumes, each aimed at a different country. No. 6 is Italy: a barefoot walk through monsoon rains. A rare, luminous harmony of green, fruity, aquatic, flowery and boisé elements.

To celebrate the magic of Italy, the Albergo Le Sirenuse of Positano has created Eau D'Italie. It is like openinga window onto Italy and inhaling the fragrances that have made this country famous all over the world. Positano is the legendary town perched on the Amalfi coast where the first fragrance was born, Paestum, Siena, Umbria and Rome. From sunrise to sunset, unisex fragrances that offer a hint of Mediterranean memories.

AmorVero is the essence from the exclusive Hotel Hassler in Rome. Dedicated to the world of women, this fragrance, created by Italian nose Lorenzo Dante Ferro, blends Damask Rose with Italian Jasmine. The fragrances are exalted by skillful touches of bright, fresh Bergamot, Lemon and Mandarin, and the exotic warmth of Sandalwood, Amber and Vanilla.
Soaps, candles, scented ointments and a valuable cologne have been produced in the heart of Biella since 1871. The continuity and authenticity of the historical Acqua di Biella brand is represented by the close links with its birthplace – a city famous the world over for its wools and magnificent fabrics. From 1871 until the present day, four generations of the same family have continued to produce this legendary “Acqua” with loving devotion. The brand’s fragrances have been created by a nose par excellence, Maurizio Cerizza.
And, finally, the inspiration behind Meo Fusciuni focuses on the essence of travel, aiming to blend together what culture has divided and nature has united in a small glass bottle. Fragrances that rediscover the fascination of the art and tradition of perfumery. Evoking periods of travel, invisible lines linking faraway lands, memories of youth, the purity of certain moments. The collection is called Trilogia del Viaggio (Rites de Passage, Shukran, Ciavuru d’amuri) and is completed by the latest arrival, an ambient perfume that offers hints of the eau de toilette.

Being a Parfumeur

They are eclectic and original, they are dictating the new trends and rules of artistic perfumery. They are the enfants terribles of fragrance and the great noses who are carrying on the traditions of world-famous brands.

Boadicea The Victorius, distributed by Intertrade Europe

Etat Libre d'Orange , distributed by Officina

Here is creativity in the pure state – four categories of eccentric and sensual fragrances. For Michael Boadi, guru of made in London artistic perfumery, the new addition to his famous unisex scents that are favorites among the international jet set (with Michelle Obama and Bill Clinton among his loyal followers), is called Boadicea The Victorious, a tribute to Britain’s great queen. The four lines, Citrus, Floral, Musk and Agarwood, made with painstakingly selected natural ingredients, are the culmination – for now – of Boadi’s brilliance that also comes across in the work he has done for idols and icons - Madonna, Jennifer Lopez and Gisele Bundchen.

James Heeley, too, is English and one of the few designers and parfumeurs to manage his own fragrance firm on his own. Every detail, from the selection of raw materials to creating the scent to packing is done in-house. Heeley’s unique and modern fragrances are perfect for men and women. The latest addition for this season is the Extrait de Parfum collection: three fine, highly concentrated scents made with top quality extracts come together in Heeley’s inimitable style – and that includes the hand-crafted Bohemian crystal stoppers!.

There is yet another luxury fragrance house, created to express the creative talents and vision of one of today’s most acclaimed parfumeurs named for its founder. Francis Kurkdjian – the special guest at Fragranze No. 9. Maison Francis Kurkdjian was launched with a flagship store on Rue Saint-Honoré, Paris in 2009 and it features a unique collection of fragrances, and scented candles and accessories all made with the purest and most precious essential oils and characterized by their unique elegance.

There are many different roads that lead to the world of fragrance. In 2006, Calming Park that began as a series of compilations by Olivier Rohrbach – Swiss DJ, journalist and creative who is enamored of synesthesia – became an exclusive collection of candles made in Grasse. Cactus, the first scented candle made with organic wax combines the calming notes of cactus with the pure transparency of water flowers and aloe vera, and wraps them in a rich base of forest notes. The new item is the Christmas Nordica candle in a package designed by the Danish team OeO and All Way To Paris. What happens when a young architect devoted to interior design becomes attracted by the mysterious lure of semi-precious stones – rock crystal, tourmaline, amethyst, pink quartz, jade and turquoise? Olivier Durbano created Parfum de Pierres Poèmes – a line of fragrances that give form and substance to the intangible power of stones and their symbology. Crystal gushes from rock crystal and the magic of incense. Tourmaline Noire evokes virile feelings of burning wood. Turquoise explodes with the salty, ozone notes of sea algae and is enlivened by aromatic juniper berries and the essence of spruce bark.

Established by Etienne de Swardt with a subtle revolution, Etat Libre d’Orange stepped onto the map as the first land of olfactory libertinism. It is a gallery of avant-garde fragrances, a platform of olfactory innovation built without restrictions. The freer the theme, the more daring the interpretation, and the language is for initiates: the aim is to wear pleasure on the skin the way you would wear a rough diamond. The new item for 2011 is Archives 60, the essence of the brand is a fragrance conceived to liberate the senses and open the heart to all possibilities.

Sometimes you become a parfumeur in the bosom of a golden family tradition. Romano Ricci, Nina Ricci’s great-grandson, is the youngest member of the prestigious dynasty. And he has created a collection that is launching a new rock and romantic trend in the world of fragrances. The scent with its iconoclastic name, Juliette Has a Gun, aims at presenting a dynamic, modern femininity – a Shakespearean Juliette looking for her Romeo, yes but with a new and different approach to romanticism.

Fine ingredients, craftsmanship and formulas handed down from father to son since 1760 – seven generations of master parfumeurs are now represented by the brilliant Olivier and his son Erwin who have made Creed perfumes into cult items. The spotlights are now shining on Royal Oud, the new composition is based on a fine resin with deep, opulent notes that comes from the Far East and is used in the greatest designer fragrances. The house of Creed took on a new challenge with Royal Oud: to create its own unique and peerless interpretation of oud.

Sometimes, it is the passion for the culture of fragrance that leaves its mark. Lorenzo Villoresi has been blazing an innovative path in the world of artistic perfume-making since 1990. His philosophy is based on the importance of the quality of all the raw materials he uses. Crystal, travertine, statuary marble from Carrara, the materials used by the artists who worked for the Medici grand dukes have been recalled from the past to give new life to a fine art. In Lorenzo Villoresi’s universe ideas and influences from distant lands give life to original collections of personal fragrances, scents and accessories for the bath and home.

In order to extend the culture of scent to the world, in November 2011 Laura Tonatto will open an olfactory center in Rome, a place that will definitely become a reference point for the people who are following the cultural development of Italy’s most famous female parfumeur. Along with Laura Tonatto’s perfume collection, the Art Nouveau inspired setting will showcase masterpieces born from encounters with painting, poetry, literature, film and music – exclusive scents that are not for sale inspired by masters of different art forms, from Caravaggio to Mozart and created with input from renowned experts.

Written by Elena Moretti
Illustrations of Dawidh di Firmo