Fashion Diary by Chiara Tronville
Fashion is all about impulses and following your gut, your head and your heart. Think about your favourite clothes. Some of them are crazy, but when you bought them they made the day special. They are show-stopping pieces and (perhaps) difficult to pull off on a day-to-day basis. That exquisite sculpted heel that you risk breaking an ankle in every time you wear it, that pink coat that makes you stand out just a touch too much on the underground, that little dress that always gets you feeling fabulously sexy – but maybe too sexy. But your wardrobe will also be packed with clothes you love because they are hyper-functional, and these are always the clothes you reach straight for. They are so incredibly versatile that you can wear them for absolutely any occasion, whether it’s day or night, summer or winter, or whether you’re in Madrid or Shanghai. Then there are those beloved items that have grown with you over the years. Accessories that tell the story of the person who designed them and made them. And those that tell the tale of our own life too. That’s why, when it came to Super, I decided to do things with my gut, my head and my heart. Some objects I have chosen because I’d like to wear them all the time, others because the current moment is all about a technological revolution and the return of a functional and transformational wardrobe. Others I have chosen because they are beautiful objects that also support a cause – and that’s an extra reason to love them.
Eco-furBack to top
No point denying it… colourful, inlaid, printed… fur has never been so on-trend.
But aside from any ethical argument: fur costs. With Red Native I have found the right balance of glamour and practicality. The little (ultra-light) coat I am wearing is made from the Japanese fibre that comes closest to natural fur. I liked that psychedelic fox-effect red, but then I tried this one. It is already the season’s bestseller, and has already been ordered by some of the most prominent Italian stores.
I can’t wait for next winter.
Gilbert’s circusBack to top
I met him for the first time at Super a year ago. Gilbert Halaby is French/Lebanese but he decided to move to Rome on a whim, with a phone call to his sister (to sell his car if I remember rightly). Before becoming a designer he was a florist and was probably very good at it, given his extremely good sense of composition. Gilbert is also super enterprising, he exploited the social media as a powerful means of communication and even managed to reach Lady Gaga. I like his colours and the irony of his detail-messages. I have chosen this bag, but I am still thinking about the marvellous gold diadem I tried on… Next time!
Anatomy of a sweaterBack to top
Minimal or tribal? Both. Style today is put together and taken apart according to mood, weather and personal aptitude. The "dissected" sweaters by Denise Bonapace are double face (plain knit on one side, pearl stitch on the other) and embellished with cuffs, collars and hems that turn into necklaces, bracelets and belts on other sweaters. A creative idea that makes you reflect on the multi-purpose transformable nature of the articles (I am also reminded of bags by Petriglia!), a useful trend, the consequence of a crisis that is good insofar as it also leads to redefinition and saving of space.
TechBack to top
I wouldn’t say that technology has made our lives easier. But there are accessories that make technology easier. This cover by ExtraVerso, for example: in the finest of resins with a suction effect, it lets you stick your iPhone to any glass surface.
In the car it helps you follow the route on the map. In the office, you can put your make-up on without breaking your neck. And it might make taking selfies on the go easier. But who pushes the button on the camera at this point? (I don’t understand how, but the telephone also reproduces the pattern of the cover on the screen)
Global spiritBack to top
I adore the Asian obsession with technology but I could never live without the tactile experience of rough wools from the north. The clutch by 72 Smalldive, in an unusual encounter between past and future, has everything inside it: tweed, coated with a resin that is finer, more elastic and resistant than plexi. The brand is based in Singapore but has 5 artisan production units in Milan. Yet another reason for liking it.
Sure-footedBack to top
This desert boot-sandal by Trenta7 looks to me like a marvellous hybrid of masculine functionality and feminine sensuality. I think it would go with everything and I’m happy because as it is part of the summer collection it’s already in the shops! The brand also presented 2 new unisex models for next season, another trend that has been around for a while.
Poetry à porterBack to top
I want to always remember how poetic and satisfying creating something with your hands is. From a chocolate cake to a hand-written letter. And if we knew that behind the pattern of every foulard we wear there was a woman carefully drawing a story, what value would we give that unique article? Turkish scarves by Rumisu won me over for this reason. Pinar and Deniz are two Turkish sisters mad about illustrating and with their project they aim to provide sustainable support for local economic development. Well done!
The featherweight jewelBack to top
Over recent years the fake maxi jewel might have become a must-have, but all those crystals and applied stones are delicate, they risk breaking in your suitcase, take up room and you have to take them off every time you go through airport security. Batucada necklaces in laser-cut rubber struck me with their lightness and flexibility: they look like floral tattoos and weigh just a few grams. The flip-flops are pretty too, made using the same process!
Courage in the face of adversityBack to top
I always admire those who double their efforts in the face of adversity. 29-year-old Yasya Minochkina has an iron will. She produces her clothes in Italy and would like to show at the next fashion week but her samples are made in her home city of Kiev, where dramatic fighting is making it difficult to get about and her eyes fill with tears. But, even as she talks to us, her daughter is celebrating her fourth birthday and the first newspapers are posting her collection at Super. Two good reasons for continuing.
Eyes that shineBack to top
Of everything I have seen, this is absolutely my heartfelt favourite: Eden Diodati, one of the ethical English brands in The Green Closet, the section at Super in collaboration with the British consulate. It is a collection of marvellous sculpture jewels inspired by the transition of darkness and light. In part made in Italy, in cooperatives for the disabled and sociopaths and in part in Rwanda by women who were victims of violence at the end of the war, this line combines ethics and aesthetics. My favourite is the gold bracelet, bottom right. 4,800 euros well spent.
Self-ricarica!Back to top
Honestly now, how often do I forget my charger at home or in the office?
Too often. I think that knowing there is a source of energy in my bag, in there amongst all my creative disorder, could considerably improve my quality of life.
This is exactly what ED Emotion Design have come up with. When you pull the zip to open the bag, a strip of light also comes on (see below!).
Now they face the challenge of managing to win over all the fashionistas! How? By combining technology and quality of materials with a strong aesthetic identity.
Extreme functionsBack to top
I am always in a hurry and I never drink enough water. Monica Albanese will remind me more often. She has worked on shapes, exaggerating them and, in some cases making them even “primordial". From ultra-flat shoppers with details in horn to my favourite water bottle-shoulder bag, her journey around (white)black is intimate and minimal. Far removed from any seasonal logic.