Personal notes for an authorial journey
Super 8 - february 2017
Texts by Elena Moretti
NOTHING LIKE THE CITYBack to top
2shirts.ago – Wide contrasting stripes and neon-color details light up a dusty urban palette. Clean silhouettes and a street wear spirit from this outerwear brand that’s dedicated to rain: the parkas and trench coats that are already available in the best concept stores are minimal, sporty and sophisticated all at once.
Art Capsule by Stefania Carrera – Call it a "jogging -chic" mood, and the highlights are the striped and handmade-look knitted inserts. There is no lack of hand-painting in knits and the prints are all based on hand-paintings. And the latest innovation is the alpaca-blend knitwear: the items are so light that they are made to be worn one over the other.
Benedetta Boroli – Milan is the designer’s constant source of inspiration. Feminine footwear made with smooth or patterned neoprene along with mesh and elasticized materials. The color theme for FW17 was inspired by the starry skies of Tanzania. The “space” element is emphasized by glitter and holographic textures that create 3D effects.
CellarDoor – Italian tradition and all of its sartorial know-how come together with the most advanced technological processes. These slacks come from urban lifestyles and reinterpret them in a way that is partly elegant and filled with savoir-faire, and partly technological and future-oriented.
Delicatezzen – Delicatezzen presents a new line of leather bags and accessories with their iconic Luxury stickers, strictly Made in Italy decorations and metal chains. The Stickers line now has 5 new iconic and rock styles with images of tigers, panthers, optical stars and a heart with a lightning bolt.
Haikure - Design, style, information and technology at the service of a new fashion concept that respects both nature and people, all this is a synonym of the Haikure experience, an eco-friendly, made-in-Italy denim brand. From modern, re-cycled and recyclable polypropylene packaging to the online tracking system by means of the QrCode to clearly communicate every product detail.
Julia Seemann (Switzerland) _after graduating in Fashion Design in Basel in 2014, Julia Seemann worked for Vivienne Westwood and Meadham Kirchhoff in London. In 2015, the Vfiles platform chose her to present her graduation collection during New York Fashion Week, attracting great attention from fashion experts and a wider public: the pop star Rihanna was photographed in one of her outfits on the day after the presentation. The creations of this Zurich-based designer combine youth subcultures and underground influences from the 1980s and ’90s with a geometric, minimalist garment structure and a subtle irony. For FW 2017, she is collaborating with British graphic designer Vaughan Oliver – one of the best known designers on the indie music scene – to create prints and embroideries that merge the respective styles of the two designers. @SUPER TALENTS
Myths – Italian know-how and materials are the foundations. Fine fabrics and innovative treatments, piece-dyed garments, washed and dyed wools, hand-finishes for a used and feisty look all contribute to making these truly unique items. And for F/W-17 they all have a military-chic twist.
Paula Cademartori # KARTELL – Kartel and Italian-Brazilian designer Paula Cademartori are continuing their cooperation. Rosas is a rigid clutch that redefines the collection’s transparencies and decorations; Barbarella, reinterprets the rain boot in an urban-chic key with appliquéd flowers: a reference to nature that takes us on a virtual trip to distant, exotic lands to “warm up” the cold seasons.
Percy Lau (China) - all creation serves as proof of the beauty that existed before us, after us and forever more. That’s the mantra behind the work of Percy Lau, a designer who created her eponymous brand of accessories and eyewear in Hong Kong in 2013. The designer projects all her natural creativity into her eyewear, with broad stylistic references that draw on the worlds of art and architecture. From Dadaist influences in the shapes of the frames, to overlapping lenses, to total deconstruction of the accessory, which is reinterpreted through zips inserted into the frames and the use of unusual materials. Then there’s her eyewear line inspired by the street style of the Harajuku district of Tokyo, with brightly coloured lenses. @SUPER TALENTS
Pret Pour Partir - Feminine and nomadic allure, clean yet embracing lines, super-practical five-pocket versions – and above all, impeccable performance in even the worst weather. Parkas and raincoats, made with technical materials like neoprene – interpreted with a sophisticated twist and designed by Xavier Aujard are meant for metropolitan globetrotters.
Re-HasH – A tribute-collection to the desert rose – crystal formations found in Mexico and among the dunes of the Sahara Desert – features prints, embroideries and accessories. The denim group interprets vintage looks in a contemporary key with embroideries, prints and appliqués. Two new fits for the jeans: high waist with cuffed legs and super-skinny with a very-high waist.
Riccardo Comi – A world of art and grunge-rock and contemporary No-Gender cross pollinations that is very much aware of trends, but still personal. An urban-street look for shapes and fine, natural yarns. It’s a collection to experience: let yourself be carried away by all the shades of disco beats.
Stefano Ghilardi– A Made in Italy handbag collection for the young, cosmopolitan, dynamic, fashion-addict woman. Made to be worn 24/7 the bag can be transformed to match the occasion – from backpack to jewel bag for the evening when embellished with sparkly charms and chains.
THE OPPOSITE GAMEBack to top
Annalisa Caricato – Original and playful accessories made by skilled hands. On a mini-bag with hand-sewn and heat-sealed appliqués, Canton’s and Neuchatel’s landscape open like windows before our eyes. An inborn talent for feminine styling and sophistication, a strong Italian character and a Pop interpretation of reality.
Atelier & Repairs – A special project and an installation by Maurizio Donadi who is based in Los Angeles and London. Atelier & Repairs will turn the spotlights onto very unique creations that are the fruit of skillfully crafted unions of iconic vintage items and reused/recycled materials using innovative artisan techniques.
Classy – Iconic items are born from a mix of vintage and current styles. “I WANT TO BELIEVE”, the slogan for FW 2017, perfectly conveys the Space/Rock feeling. Original vintage clothes are reinvented with hand-painted graphics, eco-leather, faux fur, laminated fabrics while eccentric cuts create a strong Punk Rock imprint.
Don’t Believe the Hype – Fashion’s Daft Punk are back with their colorful, funky and brilliant look. The trendy military style meets floral motifs on parkas with eco-fur collars in pop tones. And the padding will keep you warm even on the coldest days.
Kerol D – A perfect fusion of underground cultures developed by a group of young enthusiasts in sunny California gave rise to this brand in 2013. This was the origin of a super-refined outerwear collection, inspired by a passion for art and music. The new signature items is the Team Parka, with the iconic and immediately recognizable Palm Tree logo.
Manurina - Manurina combines craftsmanship, elegant finishes and materials with Manuela Rinaldi’s creative styling. The precisely shaped bags reference the stylist’s main source of inspiration: art and design. A passion for balanced, linear shapes characterizes compositions enlivened by bold color combinations, and finely crafted metal fittings.
Micoli – “The sign reads”: Sensual Minimalism. Pure shapes for the made in Florence bags that nonchalantly combine silk satin and leather, matte and shiny surfaces with a subtle reference to ballet slippers and motion. Each item creates an intimate dialogue with the wearer, and what’s more the bags are organized inside and are transformable.
Neous (UK) - understated, handcrafted shoes with minimalist detailing, for the woman who’s confident in her femininity. That’s how this creative duo formed of Alan Buanne, who used to work with Nicholas Kirkwood, and designer Vanissa Antonious, define the style of the Neous creations. It’s a contemporary style of footwear that combines their love of abstract Modernism and clean lines with the finest Italian footwear tradition. A signature of the brand is their use of unexpected colours in graphic combinations and of materials that are both classic and innovative at the same time: hand-woven macramé, transparent and synthetic fabrics, calfskin and butter-soft suede. @SUPER TALENTS
Paola Fabris – Italian-Brazilian designer Paola Fabris got her training in the San Mauro Pascoli footwear district. Her vision combines the colors and vitality of her country with Italy’s fine craftsmanship and design. This collection with its colors and strong graphic impact emanates carefully balanced exoticism.
Ruffo – Here is a new basic for a demanding woman who also insists on comfort: the focus is on the over-lines with cross-pollinations between casual and fashion-trendy. Elegant, structured neutrals dialogue with notes of teal or wine red.
Studswar – Avant-gardism and style research that looks to the future drawing inspiration from the contemporary while maintaining a healthy distance from the fads of the moment. Sneakers with details that are as unique and precious as they are simple: patches, embroideries and studs mix with micro-paintings.
Unfleur – Romantic and feisty: two opposite, yet united spirits. Hand embroideries on the soft raw parkas or on colorful, softly-shaped parkas and maxi-coats. Colors make their statement in a wintry world: periwinkle, yellow, orange and honey. Pumpkin off white and asphalt for the sporty, mountaineers mood.
ART GALLERYBack to top
AKJP – A strong unisex identity for the South African brand conceived by creative duo Keith Henning and Jody Paulsen. A look expressed as the perfect combination of abstract prints and boxy silhouettes in a game of colour blocking and graphic patterns, inspired by the sportswear style.
Angelia Ami – Born in 1993, Angelia Ami bases her research on her curiosity to discover the world and represent it as she sees it through her lens. A mixture of different fabrics, simple and architectural designs, multicultural influences combine in a harmonic composition. For SS17 it is an Eastern springtime that takes to the stage, with its very own little floral decorations, kimonos and tunics.
AnthenaClothing – From Kazakhstan, a collection that focuses on the understatement of black & white and on the elegance of the man’s shirt associated with feminine forms, with strong influences from the world of sportswear. This stands alongside the basic "Anthena Clothing & Nosi Moyo" line.
Aquarama – A refined Italian fine tailoring style combines perfectly with more functional, cutting-edge concepts in a range of unique sports and hi-tech garments, with a classic, minimal elegance. The Aquarama collections focus on a large variety of outerwear: from jackets to field jackets, coats and raincoats where nylon is set alongside exquisite, natural fabrics.
Crosscashmere – A brand new collection that defines the Scottish heritage of cashmere and projects it into a contemporary scenario, challenging the differences between the sexes. A palette of 80 colours used as monochromes and a series of timeless models form the essentials of a unisex wardrobe with a new, improved fit.
Es’givien – A playful return to nature applied to new volumes and surfaces, for an unconventional look with a classic touch. Fibres, fabrics and avant-garde processes make the collection a unique mixture of natural materials, from linen to silk denim, from thickened knits to laminated ones. Focus on duster coats and maxi-coats made by applying the thermo-forming technique to linen or soft jersey for 3D garments.
Flavia La Rocca – A contemporary, dynamic and modern way of dressing expressed in two concepts: Modularity and Sustainability. 8 looks in the space of a clutch. Interchangeable pieces that can be composed and worn in many combinations using hidden zips, to create an endless wardrobe. Entirely Made in Italy with eco-sustainable fabrics.
Marcwave - A minimal, elegant look for thisbag collection created in the groove of traditional Tuscan craftsmanship. Clutches, totes, handbags and purses follow architectural forms and present contrasting colour combinations.
ma'ry'ya - Unisex, ageless garments, to be worn with a sense of humour. The concept of ma'ry'ya is a minimal and natural elegance, dedicated to daily life, and easy to take anywhere. The materials used are cashmere, silk, silk and cashmere blend, organic cotton, organic wool, silk and linen blend.
Nico Giani - An explosion of pure forms and bright colours, fruit of an in-depth study carried out by the young designer. Determination and sweetness blend together in a collection of bags made entirely in Tuscany.
RE/DONE – A good pair of Levi’s jeans is like a good wine. The more it ages the better. This brand located in Downtown Los Angeles is a celebration of vintage denim, reproposed – brand new – in all its authenticity and with a perfect fit.
SeeMe – “Put the rainbow in your heart” is the leitmotif of the new richly-coloured collection. As always, SeeMe has been busy creating delightful and charming items for a new fashion-accessory concept. Necklaces, Bracelets, earrings and rings covered in handmade hearts make life better for the women who craft them, and more beautiful the women who wear them.
White Sand – Study and research on influences from the Far East weave together with Italian taste in a collection of trousers with clean-cut designs and colours that are simple and never intrusive. With a long-lined fit and inspired by Japan, they become the new all-purpose garment to be worn all day long.
Winnersport – A type of fashion that defines itself as gender-fluid and takes its inspiration from the world of sport, from clubs, from the nineties and from diversity. This is the identity of the new WINNERSPORT X ABODI capsule collection, a special line of garments with customised graphics, comprising sweatshirts, bomber jackets, backpacks and other accessories.
Tataborello Officina Bijoux - An adventure that began more or less like a game has led the brand to where it represents Made in Italy craftsmanship in many concept stores around the world. Federica Borello of Turin began creating innovative jewels with an eclectic, antique and light spirit in 2001. And, it’s the materials – from Swarovski crystals to polyester film - that stimulate her creativity.
WINTER MINIMALISMBack to top
Aquarama – Refined Italian sartorial styling joins hands with innovation and function in a collection of unique, sporty and high-tech items informed by classic and minimalist elegance. The Aquarama collections feature a huge variety of outer clothing – from field jackets to coats to raincoats made with tech fabrics and fine natural-fiber cloths.
B*Crom – An entirely Made in Italy collection of custom men’s and women’s slacks. Manufacturing is done in small craft workshops. The key feature: infinite possibilities of customizing each style – there are nearly 4,000 variations. Alessandro Squarzi is a project partner.
Bagutta – Clean and perfect lines. White translates the essential nature of shape and content into shirts. Now the palette is enriched with shades of blue, black and forest greens. The flannels are compact yet fit like a dream; green and blue macro-checks break up the serious notes and abound with military details. The “exclusive Milano print” on shiny silks depicts the city with its monuments and its customs.
Carditosale – A lighthearted way of interpreting life and fashion, a cheerfully nonchalant look at both. The Landi family make a line of bags with a highly unconventional character, but with all the traditional craftsmanship of Mad in Italy.
Circolo 1901 - The easy jacket is the essence of Circolo 1901, a piece-dyed fleece jacket made for a simple and comfortable fit – an aesthetic of modern comfort that’s perfect for everyday living. Coats and reefer jackets are made of fine wools, while pea coats and capes are in sport contemporary shapes.
Harris Wharf London – This outerwear – based in London, but made in Turin is filled with London influences that reinterpret classic formalwear. Sartorial coats and blazers are made with structured wools and cashmeres in new colors that imbue classic British elegance with a young touch.
ma'ry'ya – The ma'ry'ya is minimalist and natural elegance dedicated to daily living and easy to wear everywhere. The materials include cashmere, silk, silk-cashmere blends and organic cotton because Maria Icho, the designer, believes that the excellent quality of the materials is what gives her collection its value. Unisex, ageless clothes to wear with a smile.
Max’n’Chester New York – This is a unique fusion: long sartorial traditions handed down from generation to generation, founder Peter Trainor’s passion for Japanese fabrics and for a concept of deconstructed tailoring. Together they gave rise to the brand in 2012: the collections are designed in New York and then made by Japan’s best manufacturers.
Nico Giani – This collection is signed by Niccolò Giannini, who graduated from Polimoda in Florence and then went on to gain fashion design experience in Paris and San Francisco. These explosions of pure form and bright colors are the result of some amazing research. Character, dynamism and sweetness all come together in these bags that are made entirely in Tuscany.
Ora Gold – In the 1980s and 90s, Massimo Degli Innocenti worked for names such as Emanuel Ungaro, Angelo Tarlazzi and Guy Laroche. Then, in Italy he was with Valentino for a long time. The ORA cashmere knitwear collection is his latest project: essential design for soft and natural Made in Italy comfort.
Scaglione – This knitting mill was founded in Bergamo in the 1960s, and since 1990 has been making a full range of fine cashmere knits under its own label. Next winter’s collection is pure Scaglione style: sophisticated but colorful, comfortable but refined.
SeeMe – “Put the rainbow in your heart” è il leitmotiv della nuova collezione ricca di colore. Come sempre SeeMe è impegnata a creare oggetti belli e buoni per una nuova concezione dell’accessorio moda. Collane, bracciali, orecchini e anelli pieni di cuori fatti a mano migliorano la vita delle donne che li fanno e rendono più belle le donne che li indossano.
Super Duper Hats – And who is behind the Tuscan brand that has made the hat a lifestyle? Matteo Gioli and the Cornacchini sisters, Veronica and Ilaria. This creative group has “made it” by creating hats inspired by the Gandy Dancers, the early 20th century workers who laid railroad traces. Now, the Hatters Crew has also created a capsule collection to convey the brand’s philosophy.
Tissué – A new unisex, precise and unconventional approach. A celebration of minimalism at its most sartorial expression. Strong references to the world of uniforms and a desire to explore new languages. It’s the game of opposites that plays the leading role and makes full shapes dialogue with sharp silhouettes.
White Sand – The White Sand woman lets her body be swathed in slender shapes made of high quality materials. Resolve crosses the boundaries of classic elegances giving an intense and fragrant look of colorful elegance. Dynamic. A new, active and self-confident woman. A pure expression of impetus and feeling.