5 CURATORS/

BIANCA SAUNDERS

INFUNDIBULUM // ILYA VAREGIN

LABRUM // FODAY DUMBUYA

SOAR RUNNING // TIM SOAR

T-MICHAEL

On the first floor at Costruzioni Lorenesi, T-Michael, the designer famous for innovation in his bespoke creations, presents “5 CURATORS/ ONE SPACE/”. Five fashion insiders and designers ( Gerold Brenner, Tom Stubbs, Harris Elliott, Noriaki Moriguchi and T-Michael) talk about the creative ability of nine brands in a showcase that taps into the zeitgeist of contemporary style in fashion. The brands involved are Soar Running, Bianca Saunders, Infundibulum, Labrum., Neat, Norwegian Rain, T-Michael, Y. & Sons and Marc Point.

GEROLD BRENNER

TOM STUBBS

HARRIS ELLIOT

NORIAKI MORIGUCHI

designer, tailor, creative consultant and trend researcher

leading menswear stylist, style writer & The FT HowToSpendIt's The Sharpener

A visual storyteller and one half of the phenomenally successful photographic exhibition Return of The Rude Boy. Mr Elliot creates concepts and creative direction for art installations, advertising campaigns and fashion shows. Working with the best international talent to deliver intuitive results across; 2-D, live, digital and film platforms. His 10 second elevator pitch would read something like this “I develop concepts and curate art/photographic gallery shows and help brands develop narratives to create and deliver mega interesting advertising campaigns and installations”

tailor, designer, artist, known for his bespoke and innovative creations, co owner/ designer Norwegian Rain and the creator of the T-Kimono

 GQ Japan fashion editor

ONE SPACE/

MARC POINT

NEAT // Daishi Nishino

NORWEGIAN RAIN //

T-MICHAEL & ALEXANDER HELLE

Y. & SONS

T-MICHAEL

For too long runners had lacked options for style driven running wear that not only felt and looked great, but also performed at the highest level. Drawing on his extensive background in fashion and design, twinned with an unrelenting passion for running, Tim Soar sought to change this. And so, Soar Running was born. As runner, running is central to his life, a literal and metaphorical heartbeat. Born on the streets, parks, heaths and towpaths of London, but traversing the globe, Soar delivers performance and style for all who run: young and old, fast and slow, urban and rural. The brand’s mission is simple: to seek unparalleled performance through the use of cutting-edge fabrics and innovative design, and to cherish the beauty of running in everything it does.

 

@soar_running

Bianca Saunders is a British born Menswear designer who completed her Masters in Menswear design at the Royal College of Art, graduating in 2017. Saunders previously earned her BA in fashion at Kingston university, where she won first place for her graduate collection titled "Integration". As an intern, Bianca Saunders worked for Preen, KTZ and Johnathan Saunders. During Bianca Saunders time at the RCA, her work has been focused on her personal journey surrounding identity and her family's Caribbean heritage and what that means in London today. She has using film as a research and presentation tool. Saunders collection is about defining contemporary black masculinity. In order to create another point of view to where it stands. Through interviewing male friends that challenging the stereotypes of hyper masculinity and how that is internalised. Offering clothes that are masculine but play with the spectrum of masculinity boarding on what can be seen as feminine nuances. Inspired by sculptural work of Thomas J Price juxtaposed to classic renaissance Greek sculpture of men.

 

@biancasaunders_

The brand’s philosophy is ascetic hedonism: less havings - more pleasure, with collections that are always capsule and limited edition. An evolution of tradition, the brand recreates clothing using methods existed before the mass production by its own rules. Ilya Varegin was born in 1986 in Turkmenistan and grew up in Moscow, Russia. Since 2008, she has created historical costumes for the theatre, cinema, museums and reenactors. In June 2014, the designer graduated with honours from the British Higher School of Art and Design as fashion designer and the same year she founded a conceptual menswear brand called Infundibulum. In October 2014 Infundibulum was invited and took part in the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia. In August 2016, Ilya opened Infundibulum showroom in the centre of Moscow, presenting her S/S 2018 capsule collection in the State Historical Museum of Russia on the Red Square. Since 2015, all woollen fabrics used are created especially for Infundibulum in a small local manufacture using 1960th weaving looms that allows reproducing historical and traditional hand weaved fabric constructions and hand-dyed. Since 2016, the brand has used only local hand weaved and hand-dyed cotton and linen fabrics. The buttons are natural (bone, horn, mother-of-pearl, wood, etc.) and either handcrafted or vintage.
 
 @iinfundibulum
 

LABRUM is a modern brand with a philosophy centred on creating directional menswear and accessories. The word LABRUM is a Latin word for having an edge. The company began life in 2014 with Foday Dumbuya (Labrum founder, creative director, designer) working from his living room with an aim to make practical, honest clothing based on simplicity, fit and great design. Labrum is inspired by Foday’s formative years growing up in Sierra Leone, Cyprus and London; part of a working-class family that loved to dress really well and seeing his parents in their traditional tailored work wear blended with an African touch. He was brought up feeling like there were no limitations in life and life was made to explore. Labrum is the product of that experience and the twelve years spent in the fashion industry. From his Muslim boyhood to working in DKNY and Nike, Labrum is a brand that encapsulates this journey. Foday wanted Labrum to reflect his fascination with craftsmanship, detailing, simplicity, fit and his obsession for buttons. Labrum delivers innovative garments with an uncompromising commitment to quality and design. A utilitarian approach fused with British tailoring creates a design recipe that is clean and sophisticated; clashed with a rich imperial colour palette. We are not influenced by seasonal trends but provide the answer for practical clothing that is wearable and idiosyncratic.

 

@labrumlondon 

NEAT means tidy, clean, and decorous. T-shirt and casual shoes are fine, but the trousers must be smart because Daishi Nishino, the brand’s founder, believes that these are what truly make an outfit element. This is the credo behind the brand’s name. Neat trousers have a cut that is totally suited to modern times, teamed with vintage and classic patterns and weaves. Each fabric has been carefully chosen to ensure perfect fit, with an eye on details, too.

 

@neat_tokyo 

Award winning rain wear brand from Bergen, Norway. Norwegian Rain boasts a sartorial approach on waterproof outerwear inspired by Japanese sensibility and by life in the rainiest city of Europe - Bergen. "The philosophy is simple. Hard core functional and waterproof outerwear that does not compromise on stylistic preferences. The hi-tech is hidden". Norwegian Rain's garments conceal some of the highest level of weather protection available.

 

@norwegianrain 

Yamato's first-ever stand-alone men's shop, Y. & SONS is a bespoke kimono concept store that inspires everyday fashion. A company with a history going back 100 years, Yamato Co., Ltd. is breathing new life into the kimono world, with the aim of achieving a new kimono culture that blends seamlessly with contemporary lifestyles and cultural trends, preserving the traditions and unique charm of this singularly Japanese clothing. The brand hopes that everyone, particularly those who feel kimono have no place in modern life, will give KIMONO another contemporary chance.   
 
@yandsons
 

T-MICHAEL is a bespoke tailor/ designer /artist with a conceptual approach to men’s tailoring inspired by his love of sartorial traditions and his passionate quest for a different narrative within tailoring, design and creativity, to celebrate stylistic and cultural diversities in today's zeitgeist. He is known for his meticulous attention to detail and for his garments’ impeccable construction and finishing. T-Michael is the half part of Norwegian Rain, where they fuse traditional tailoring with innovative fabrics and clever detailing to create a stylistic, utilitarian and 100% waterproof products. He has collaborated with Y. & Sons, to create the award-winning T-KIMONO. The concept is to present the kimono as an everyday menswear staple in the wardrobe of men today.

 

@tmichael_bergen

Marc Puntar graduated in fashion design at the Esmod International Fashion University in Paris, completing his studies in Visual Merchandising and Fashion Marketing at Bocconi University in Milan. With important work experience at Max Mara, Miroglio, and Fiorucci under his belt, Puntar then starts up his own fashion project, founding the Marc Point label. His collections feature elements taken from early nineteenth-century tailoring, through to more contemporary influences in a makeover of a modern-look glossary of couture. With unique, personal style and cut that is often cutting-edge Japanese, Puntar tells a fashion story, a fantastic tale in which every garment plays a leading role.

 

@marc_point