Fashion Diary by Giampietro Baudo

DAY 4 12.01.2018

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NATI CON LA CAMICIA

Ogni gentleman che si rispetti ama indossare la camicia. I requisiti sono generalmente la qualità dei tessuti, il design innovativo, la precisione del taglio, l’impeccabilità nella confezione e la cura del dettaglio. I tessuti tinta unita danno spazio a una grandissima varietà di righe come nelle proposte lanciate alla corrente edizione di Pitti Immagine Uomo da Bagutta e Tintoria Mattei, ma anche quadri, come nelle collezioni pensate da Guglielminotti e Webb & Scott. Replay reinterpreta invece il check in mood streetwear, con borchiatura a stelle ad ispirazione militare. Una vera esplosione di geometricità.  

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Kappa a Pitti Uomo

Le sue tute erano praticamente scomparse dai nostri armadi, ma eccole tornare alla grande, sempre trascinate dal loro simbolo: la banda laterale con gli omini seduti schiena contro schiena che ha reso Kappa, a 40 anni esatti dalla sua nascita, uno dei marchi che spopola sui social network e che tutte le nuove generazioni vogliono. Il merito di questa resurrezione? Molto si deve a una serie di celebrities di serie A, come le sorelle Kylie e Kendall Jenner, Brooklyn Beckham e Lewis Hamilton, che hanno indossato, scovati chissà dove, alcuni vintage del brand tricolore. Il resto lo hanno fatto il co-branding e una serie di collezioni azzeccatissime come quella dell'autunno-inverno 2018/2019 presentata in anteprima assoluta a Pitti Uomo. Nello stand del marchio allestito nella Fortezza da basso tutti interrogano Lorenzo Boglione, vicepresidente del settore vendite del Gruppo BasicNet di cui Kappa fa parte, quale sarà la prossima collaborazione fashion ad essere lanciata. Le aspettative sono alte, d'altronde dal 2016 a oggi le collaborazioni con nomi cult del fashion system si sono susseguite senza sosta (Gosha Rubchinskiy, Marcelo Burlon, Faith Connexion, Opening Ceremony e - ultima della serie - Danilo Paura) portando Kappa a essere protagonista non solo per strada e sui campi da gioco, ma anche sulle passerelle.

 

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FASHION ANCHE SOTTO ZERO

Le temperature rigide non spaventano più. Tra le proposte che fanno capolino a Pitti Immagine Uomo riguardanti la prossima stagione fredda spunta una ricca selezione di capi outdoor dai tessuti altamente performanti, per sentirsi confortevolmente al caldo sfidando il clima avverso. Perfetto è l’imbottito in piumino d’oca creato da Add in tessuto opaco idrorepellente e collo in montone, così come i duvet dal sapore tech presentati da Rossignol e Boomboogie. Da Peuterey il mood è dinamico e i materiali tecnici riescono ad armonizzare prestazione ed eleganza. Si affaccia per la prima volta sul mercato, infine, il nuovo progetto targato Herno, un innovativo piumino completamente waterproof, windproof e traspirante.

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Undercover e TheSoloist hanno intrapreso un viaggio post-apocalittico

Di eventi cult, alla 93° edizione di Pitti Immagine Uomo, ce ne sono stati svariati. Ma quello che ha chiuso la kermesse fiorentina è stato certamente uno dei più attesi. E non ha deluso le aspettative. Il doppio show di Undercover e TheSoloist, brand guidati rispettivamente da Jun Takahashi e Takahiro Miyashita, ha sigillato non solo il già consolidato spirito internazionale di Pitti, ma anche il suo status di piattaforma cool. Grazie a due nomi che forse sono poco conosciuti al grande pubblico, ma che sono particolarmente apprezzati dal fashion system. Nonché due amici, entrambi originari del Giappone, che in qualità di guest designer della kermesse hanno portato in passerella uno scambio creativo, sfilando uno dopo l’altro sulla stessa passerella della Stazione Leopolda e affrontando insieme un tema comune. 
Ad aprire lo show è stato Undercover, solito sfilare a Parigi e in trasferta a Firenze dopo 9 anni di assenza dalla culla del Rinascimento. Il suo capitolo, che prendeva il nome di Order-Disorder, si è aperto con un look maschile dirompente, composto da una lunga gonna plissettata in maglieria insieme a un avvolgente pullover. In un crescendo di citazioni e riferimenti, Jun Takhashi ha svelato maxi tute da lavoro, completi sartoriali in versione montone e abbinamenti di velluto a costine. Cambiando poi gradualmente registro per arrivare alla sua space odissey, fatta di stampe interspaziali dai richiami kubrickiani e arrivando come finale a una discesa dallo spazio di cinque modelli in veste d’astronauta.
Dall’altro lato, quello descritto da Takahiro Miyashita è stato invece il Disorder-Order, un mondo underground di guerrieri, tra outfit ultra coprenti, dominanza del nero e volti coperti. Per il suo debutto a Pitti ha portato in scena una battaglia notturna di riferimenti radioattivi e ultraterrestri, con giacche portate in spalla come zaini e maxi mantelle effetto leather. A chiudere il racconto post-apocalittico dei due brand è stato il loro stesso incontro in passerella: arrivando dai due lati opposti della sala, i due schieramenti del bianco e del nero si sono incrociati condividendo lo scenario, e anche l’applauso finale.
 

PITTI INCORONA MAGLIANO

Ci sono giovani designer di moda che meritano di essere supportati e ci sono manifestazioni che non si accontentano di mostrare il meglio a disposizione sul mercato, ma che spingono l’acceleratore sui nuovi talenti. È il caso di Luca Magliano, designer bolognese, che sfila a Pitti Immagine Uomo con il suo: Guardaroba per Uomo Innamorato, per il prossimo autunno-inverno 2018/19. Perché proprio un “uomo innamorato”? Probabilmente perché chi è così animato da tanto ardore ha il coraggio di apparire in maniera straordinaria e cerca di prepararsi al meglio. Questa commistione tra innamoramento e abbigliamento Magliano la condensa in 23 uscite, con un casting di “interpreti” come li definisce il designer. “Ci sono amici, persone a me care come Manuela Arcari, che produce la collezione e che ha accettato di giocare con noi e poi ci sono ragazzi e ragazze che rappresentano il nostro spirito”. Magliano cita anche Jean Cocteau, Peter Greenaway e i cowboy; sfoggia riferimenti ai fumetti riletti in chiave punk, miscelati ai sex symbol degli anni ‘50; esprime tagli e costruzioni dei classici degli anni Novanta, rivisti ed espansi con un’ottica contemporanea.

 

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032 C debutta con il menswear a Pitti Uomo

By Federico Poletti.
Per tutti gli appassionati di editoria indipendente 032c, da Berlino approda a Firenze a Pitti Uomo per un lancio speciale: il debutto della sua prima collezione menswear. Il magazine è nel tempo diventato un simbolo e riferimento per una generazione di creativi grazie alla trasversalità dei contenuti (arte, moda e politica) e alle diverse iniziative, che spaziano da mostre, eventi speciali fino a workshop. Un percorso di grande coraggio imprenditoriale e creativo che lo ha portato a Pitti Uomo dove 032c ha presentato la sua prima collezione uomo, arricchita da alcuni capi da donna. Non il solito fashion show, ma un evento speciale che ha incluso una performance di ballerini di Kreuzberg - il quartiere del magazine a Berlino - un editor di 032c, una madre con suo figlio, il figlio dell’art director del magazine e altri personaggi della community di 032c. Un happening unico, anche grazie alla cornice rinascimentale e sfarzosa di Palazzo Medici Riccardi, che ha visto protagonisti tra video proiezioni e performance, modelli e modelli con capi workwear e look sportswear in materiali tecnici e anche abiti in pelle per lei.

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AHIRAIN

Tra le novità tutte da scoprire tra gli stand di Pitti Uomo c'è Ahirain, un marchio giovanissimo (è nato nel 2016) di capispalla, che con la stagione autunno-inverno 2018-2019 lancia la linea uomo. Dietro questo progetto ci sono tre giovani imprenditori - i fratelli Azzurra e Giampaolo Morelli con Andrea Pucci - con un'idea precisa sul prodotto da sviluppare: essenzialità nell'immagine e coraggio estremo nella realizzazione dei capi tra trattamenti speciali e tessuti esclusivi. Una ricetta che per la donna ha già conquistato vetrine super cool come Excelsior e Biffi a Milano, Silvia Bini a Viareggio a The Library a Londra ad Elù a Los Angeles e che con l'uomo promette di fare ancora meglio. 

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10X10 ANITALIANTHEORY

A Pitti prosegue la vintage sporty mania. Così anche Alessandro Enriquez e il suo marchio 10x10 AnItalianTheory non perdono la vena nostalgica per gli Anni ’80 e ‘90, che resta la chiave di lettura per i look del prossimo inverno. la maglieria illustrata le T-Shirt e le felpe hanno tutte  una vestibilità loose, con giromanica scesi e animo street e colori arcobaleno. Per le grafiche Enriquez questa stagione punta sul Carnevale italiano, quello di Venezia, Viareggio e Sciacca, con i disegni di Arlecchino e Colombina, a cui si aggiunge - per celebrare il tema del Pitti Uomo 93, ovvero il cinema - la capsule collection con il cartoon Felix The cat

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MANUEL RITZ

Manuel Ritz mette al centro della sua partecipazione a Pitti Uomo l'asterisco, ormai non più semplice logo del brand di abbigliamento maschile, ma vero segno di riconoscimento visto che ormai compare su abiti, giacche, t-shirt e felpe dal dettaglio spilla fino a trasformarsi in stampe all over delle felpe e della maglieria della prossima collezione-autunno inverno 2018 che dà grande spazio all’ispirazione sportswear e al colore blu. 

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DAY 3 11.01.2018

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MINI FOCUSES ON NEW TALENTS

Florence, Pitti Uomo 93. The season’s celebration of menswear has begun, with its packed calendar of grand events, cocktails and catwalk shows. It’s a whirlwind of signed orders, new product launches and presentation of commercial collections. And more. There is even time to meet new talents and reflect on where the world of fashion is going; because fashion is created through thought and not just needles, thread and fabric. And Pitti has always been the most complete exhibition for this union between idea and product, art and craft, commerce and communication. The MINI stand is a point in case, strategically positioned in the centre of the Fortezza da Basso, it’s where the MINI Fashion project is presented. A project where four emerging designers have explored the concept of “Rethinking Identity”, reinterpreting the 4 founding principles of MINI DNA: Inventive Spirit, Creative Use of Space, Iconic Design and Minimal Footprint. Important principles in the MINI philosophy, translated into surprising garments, illustrated during a series of lunch-talks held in partnership with Esquire, which focused on the work of Vien, Kristian Guerra, Bav Tailor and Rebecca Langebæk. 

VALENTINO LAUNCHES VLTN

The itinerant project designed by Valentino to communicate the VLTN concept starts at Pitti Uomo in Florence. It is not just an updated overhaul of the Valentino logo launched at the Spring/Summer 2018 show, but also the new way the fashion house has chosen to communicate its more contemporary and sporty side. A special menswear installation has been created for the Valentino boutique in Via de Tornabuoni, dedicated to the new project VLTN that pre-announces a series of exclusive items that will be part of the Fall/Winter 2019 collection. After Florence, the installation moves to the Milan store in Via Montenapoleone and immediately after, to the store in Paris. The following phase to raise consumer awareness towards the VLTN world is the launch, beginning 26th January and lasting around three weeks, of Albino pop-ups dedicated to Tokyo, New York, Hong Kong and Seoul. 

Concept Korea returns to Pitti Uomo 93

Pitti Uomo is reaffirmed as the ideal observatory for understanding the next trends, thanks to the mix of designers and projects that have an increasingly international look. On stage at Pitti Uomo 93 is a special focus on Korean fashion through the Concept Korea event, a project by the Pitti Immagine Discovery Foundation in partnership with KOCCA – Korea Creative Content Agency, the most important governmental agency that supports and promotes Korean creativity. On the catwalk are two Korean brands, BMUET(TE) and BEYOND CLOSET, already strong in their own country and which, in Florence, can access a global market, thanks to a sensitive public in search of innovation. 

EASTPAK, STYLE QUARTET

For some time now, we have been accustomed to Eastpak collaborating with renowned innovative designers, such as Kris Van Assche. However, the four projects of co-branding planned for 2018 herald a truly cult season for the backpack brand. Each of these capsule collections will be revealed during the fashion week in programme between January and February. It starts with Pitti Uomo and the project with Undercover, while during the shows in Milan it will be the turn of the pieces created by Msgm. In Paris it is the turn of Vetements to take the Eastpak branded pieces onto the catwalk (in encore). The co-branding series closes with the Raf Simons collection that will be presented in New York. 

CHECK-UP THE NEW JACKET

Checks, what passion! For autumn/winter 2018/2019 presented at Pitti Immagine 93, the jacket, bastion of tailored garments, is inspired by Britain’s Savile Row to dress the charismatic, powerful man, scrupulous in his search for perfection and looks. The Sartoria Latorre collection is made from unusual and weathered wools with discreet and sophisticated elegance, as are the collections by L.b.m 1911 and Tagliatore. Excellence and exclusivity are the leitmotivs of the proposals from the Manuel Ritz and Luigi Bianchi Mantova labels, where cashmere, silk, alpaca and mohair are the lightweight key to facing the severities of winter.

LES BENJAMINS

Les Benjamins and its conceptual sportswear have chosen Florence’s oldest theatre, the Niccolini, for presentation of the new autumn/winter collection 2018/2019, inspired by the world’s first skyscrapers: the Aztec and Egyptian pyramids. Bunyamin Aydin, founder and director of the brand, blends the ancient and modern creating bold and reflective prints for his garments. Recently given the “Designer of the Year” award by Esquire Middle East, the designer has taken the opportunity offered by Pitti Uomo to announce the 2019 Puma x Les Benjamins partnership, completing the look of the styles with the iconic Tsugi.

 

RRD, WHEN SURFWEAR BECOMES ART

Pitti Uomo is also host to innovative companies that aren’t just limited to the presentation of clothes. This is the category that Rrd Roberto Ricci Designs belongs to. The brand that started with surfboards is now synonymous with evolved sportswear and has brought two special events to Florence: the photographic exhibition Water & Light by Ray Collins, which celebrates the identity of the brand through a series of shots of the Australian oceans, and the preview of the documentary Follow the Wind by Jerrie Van De Kop and dedicated to the theme of global warming. 

IN THE OASIS WITH Z ZEGNA

Z Zegna, the experimental range from the Ermenegildo Zegna group, continues its natural development of a performance-driven wardrobe where tailoring characteristics and techniques fuse in a multifunctional style for the man who loves the great outdoors. The creativity of Alessandro Sartori is guided by a tribute to the spectacular landscape of the Zegna Oasis. A vast protected mountainous area, open to the public, covering roughly 100 m² and crossed by the Zegna Panoramic road in the Biella Alps. Don’t forget trekking, which takes centre stage this season.

DAY 2 10.01.2018

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WP Lavori in corso partners with Deus Ex Machina

A new collaboration between the WP Lavori in Corso group and Deus Ex Machina is presented on the occasion of Pitti Uomo. Associated with biker culture, the Australian brand of clothing and accessories with original graphics will be distributed in Italy starting 2018 exclusively by WP. Woolrich, the group’s flagship brand, will present an interactive film on the namesake town and wool factory, one of the oldest in the United States. The immersive visual, auditory and olfactory experience will offer an insight in the brand's history and locations.

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Backpack passion

Its double nature as a cult object and a very practical item may be the reason why backpack is once again the must-have of the season. The backpack is confirmed as the most popular accessory for men of all ages and personalities: from the young travellers envisioned by Campomaggi and Herschel to the busy men imagined by Bally and Piquadro, there is a unique, irresistible version for every man. Like the colourful version with oversized stitching by Il bisonte.

 

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IN THE GUCCI GARDEN

Tortellini, Chianina beef hot dog and, why not, a bouillabaisse  to enjoy in Florence, with a view of Palazzo Vecchio. The address is Gucci Garden, a new “eclectic” space housed in Palazzo della Mercanzia in Piazza Signoria – inaugurated by Gucci last night on the occasion of Pitti Uomo – that also hosts the Gucci Osteria, a bistrot for few guests (just about twenty seats) under the direction of Michelin three-star chef Massimo Bottura, of renowned Osteria Francescana, and one of the most well-known names on the international culinary scene. The exterior is a monumental building, while the interior houses an imaginative natural world made of plants, flowers, and animals (hence the name Garden), as featured in the collections of the maison designed by creative director Alessandro Michele, who restyled the building – home of the Gucci Museum only a few months ago – that will open to the public every day starting tomorrow. On the ground floor, next to the restaurant, a boutique sells items created exclusively for Gucci Garden, not available at any other store of the maison. The selection includes footwear, handbags, clothes, but also items of the Décor collection, books, and magazines. For the first time, an assortment of gift items, including maps of Florence, postcards, and stationery will also be available. The two upper floors are reserved for Gucci Galleria. The far-from-conventional museum, curated by Maria Luisa Frisa for the double G-logoed maison hosts historical pieces  alongside its own archive of video installations, manufactured items, and graphic products.

 
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MARIANO DI VAIO REINTERPRETS LA MARTINA POLOS

Primera Selección limited edition debuts at Pitti Uomo 93.

Sports, family life and the discovery of the customs in a faraway land are central to the collaboration between La Martina and Mariano Di Vaio. Next January 9, at Pitti Immagine Uomo 93, in the evocative atmosphere of Villa Vittoria’s Orangerie (Limonaia), the Argentinian company and the influencer will showcase their Primera Selección, a limited edition collection that comprises a series of polo shirts reminiscent of the origins of the brand, established in 1985 by Lando Simonetti. The creative partnership with Mariano Di Vaio had a serendipitous start, says the company. The Italian blogger found himself immersed in the La Martina world while visiting the polo club at Villa A Sesta, in Tuscany. His passion for sports excellence and for elegance combined visibly in the details of the fashion line. La Martina then invited Mariano Di Vaio to hear its history in Argentina, taking him on a tour through the brand’s past, from polo tournaments to the Simonetti family home, where it all started. Central to the presentation, the first polo shirt designed by the founder of the brand 35 years ago, inspired by the uniforms of polo players in the 1940s and 1950s. Mariano Di Vaio was entrusted with the task of reinterpreting and structuring a collection of garments that could trace a history of the renowned shirt style, from its tricot version to the classic piqué style all the way to the jersey interpretation, highlighting the inseparable bond of sports, passion and tradition. Different types of outfits make up the Primera Selección capsule, from a modern fit polo shirt, featuring the colours of the Argentinian flag and those of the sports tradition, to the classic piqué knits, to uniquely personalised jersey styles with graphic prints with a strong visual impact. The choice of colours and graphics and the use of colour block and horizontal and vertical contrast stripes are once again inspired by traditional polo shirts: white and light blue, navy blue, red, ecru and light grey.
 

A RAINBOW OF CHINOS

The keyword is colour. Chinos continue to be timelessly trendy, year after year, season after season. The fashionable man’s trousers par excellence, they are always up-to-date in countless chromatic and textile versions. Harmont & Blaine offers chinos in a rainbow of colours so rich that it’s impossible not to find the right hue to make any outfit original. In their warm corduroy velvet feel, the Pence 1979 and Viganò styles are just as alluring. The fanciful styles designed by Paoloni and Gta feature great attention to detail.

 

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AN ALL-WOOL COLLECTION FOR THREE STARS

The first day of Pitti Uomo 93 has seen the gathering in Florence of a prestigious jury, with designers like Philip Lim, top models, opinion leaders, celebrities like Livia Firth and Liya Kebede, and international retailers like Armand Hadida, founder of the famous Parisian store L'Éclaireur. All invited to choose the most experimental and innovative designers who interpreted merino wool, a luxury natural fibre used to manufacture clothes for a high number of brands. At Stazione Leopolda, in an industrial setting featuring special lighting, the jury of the International Woolmark Prize awarded major prizes to six designers from every corner of the world, from India to Korea, from the United Kingdom to New Zeland. The top two awards went to Matthew Miller and Bodice for the menswear and womenswear categories, a prize amounting to 200,000 AUD (approximately 132,000 €) to invest in the development of their business. What’s more, thanks to the project partners, Miller and Bodice will see their collections distributed to high-end international stores.

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Damir Doma at Pitti

At this edition of Pitti Uomo dedicated to the Autumn/Winter 2018/2019 menswear world, co-branding initiatives appear as the season’s hottest revelation. The first day of the Florentine fashion event starts with a bang, revealing the second act of the collaboration between Lotto and the designer Damir Doma, which won the public over six months ago at its debut fashion show in Milan with an original mixture of sportswear and minimal sleek. The new capsule collection of the Croatian-born designer again draws inspiration from the Italian brand’s past, reinterpreting the iconic Lotto logo in multifarious ways, turning it into prints and embroideries. This creative fusion has produced about 100 menswear and womenswear clothes and accessories, including T-shirts, polo shirts, jogging pants, sweatshirts, jackets, jumpsuits, and sneakers, of course. The items were presented in a preview last night within the Florentine multibrand “A Piedi Nudi Nel Parco” with a video installation, followed by a party at the Jaguar club. The looks created by Damir Doma and Lotto will be available on the market in six months’ time: the collection will reach Damir Doma’s showrooms for the marketing campaign that will take the collection to the world’s most exclusive multibrand stores starting September 2018.

 

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Talents from the North / Finland is Guest Nation at Pitti

In the collective imagination, Scandinavian style is synonymous with simple shapes, quality materials and monochrome combinations. But there's much more to it. On the new wave of a creative style not yet widely known, for its Pitti Immagine Uomo 93 event, Pitti has chosen Finland as the protagonist of the special project Guest Nation. The selection includes well-established brands like Turo, the reference company for sartorial fashion, and R-Collection, renowned for its casual heritage style already from 1978, which for the occasion launch capsules in collaboration with emerging talents. Turo has chosen Ikla Wright as its ambassador, to infuse a more contemporary twist in its typically sartorial design, whereas R-Collection has given renowned designer Maria Korkeila the task of playing with deconstructed shapes and bright hues for new urban uniforms. Heikki Salonen, a former designer for Erdem and Diesel, has launched his Vyner Articles collection specifically at Pitti Uomo, with denim trouser suits, varnish embroidered sweatshirts and safari jackets with contrast collars. The focus is also on young designers graduated from Aalto University, like Rolf Ekrothe, already chosen by Galerie Lafayette for the drop of a limited edition, and Mannisto, who works with various techniques such as patchwork and embroidery.

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DAY 1 09.01.2018

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Fanga, a prêt-à-porter change of tack for Alessandro Squarzi

Fanga, the brand that arose from a project by Bruno Riffeser Monti, is presenting their first prêt-à-porter footwear collection, designed in collaboration with entrepreneur and web icon Alessandro Squarzi. There are four versions - Oxford, Moccasin, Double monk and Chelsea Boot – made following the lines of the company’s core business, but with Goodyear stitching carried out with machines, interpreted in soft leathers or denim. The animal skins are of the highest quality, such as the French calfskins and the Mississippi alligator, strictly hand-patinated; then there’s the reverse calfskin, the fine, hard-wearing stingray leather and the lizard skin with pearly scales. Finally, a link up with the world of goldwork has allowed the possibility to personalize the heel with a precious metal detail created specially for each shoe. It’s a unique, exclusive feature that the customer can contribute to by defining the shape, finishing, material, coding or symbols. Colour: hand-patinated black for a lived-in effect.

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THE NEW KARL LAGERFELD MENSWEAR TAKES THE FLOOR IN FLORENCE

A new direction for Karl Lagerfeld’s menswear, which has chosen Pitti Uomo 93 as the stage for presenting the brand’s own name autumn/winter 2018-19 collection, as well as announcing the union of the Lagerfeld and Karl Lagerfeld labels under the single Karl Lagerfeld label. The setting for the menswear fashion show is the Sala dell’Orologio in the Costruzioni Lorenesi area. “Pitti is an exciting platform for revealing the Karl Lagerfeld collection and its vision of men’s fashion,” declared Pier Paolo Righi, the brand’s chief executive officer. “Our mission is to continually stimulate our consumers with interesting stories that make them feel they are an integral part of the brand.” The Karl Lagerfeld brand is offering womenswear, menswear and childrenswear lines, as well as bags, small leather goods, perfumes, watches and fashion jewellery. The company’s network of stores now numbers 95 single brand stores around the world, along with selected multi-brand stores in Europe, the Middle East and Asia. In addition to the main menswear collection presented at Pitti there will also be the "Karl Lagerfeld Curated by Sebastien Jondeau" capsule collection, designed by Lagerfeld’s personal assistant. The collection ranges from ready-to-wear to accessories to footwear, and is inspired by Jondeau’s personal style as well as by some of the professional and personal experiences he has shared with Lagerfeld. The capsule will arrive on the market next August and will be available in Karl Lagerfeld stores, selected multi-brand stores and online at the karl.com website. The range includes casual garments such as T-shirts, leather jackets and varsity jackets, as well as more formal outfits, such as tuxedos and cashmere jumpers, which echo Jondeau’s daily wear. “I’ve been working alongside Karl for over twenty years and I’m very happy that he’s decided to trust me with a menswear collection,” Sebastien Jondeau explained. “We concentrated on my everyday style of clothing and we’ve designed mix-and-match clothes that can suit all occasions: casual, sporty and relaxed clothes, as well as more formal suits. Those are the kinds of clothes I like.”

 
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Major, Giovanni Allegri’s new project

To create a collection that could transmit a different idea of tailoring, focusing on an exclusive design and technological innovation. With the Major project, the Giovanni Allegri brand focuses again on Italian expertise, presenting a “Living Wardrobe” for men and women that reinterprets wardrobe essentials: the trench coat, the parka, the pea coat, the bomber jacket, the car coat, just to mention a few. A cross-range of styles lies at the base of the collection which features new and very contemporary geometric patterns and shapes with an essential cut. It’s a new story made up of exclusive fabrics, unexpected materials, and shapes and proportions that become the aesthetic code for each garment, intended as urban luxury to look at, observe, touch and wear.

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Peak Performance is back with Nigel Cabourn for a second time

The Swedish label Peak Performance, one of the best-known brands in the world for top range skiwear, is expanding its range with casual and fashion garments that are perfectly suited to an urban context. Drawing inspiration from its own historic archives, Peak Performance has reinterpreted iconic garments from a modern angle, creating an urban collection that is the epitome of luxury sportswear. Outerwear is a main focus again for autumn-winter 2018 with the X-Jackets: a padded jacket, a padded parka, an under-jacket and a field jacket, made in collaboration with Italian company Beste. Another focus of the new collection is the second collaboration with British designer Nigel Cabourn: taking his inspiration from Jim Whittaker’s legendary climb of Mount Everest in 1963, Cabourn has succeeded in combining his vintage archive with the technical expertise of Peak Performance, designing a capsule collection consisting of nine garments.

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Robert Cavalli, in the footsteps of his father with Triple Rrr

He’s a son of the trade. On the occasion of Pitti Immagine Uomo 93, on from 9 to 12 January, Robert Cavalli, the son of Eva and Roberto, is presenting Triple Rrr, his new menswear brand. The project combines London streetwear with the Florentine dandy style, ready to express a new idea of luxury comfort, through innovation and experimentation with fabrics. Triple Rrr makes its debut on 11 January at the Galleria Romanelli in Borgo San Frediano, Florence. Born in 1993, Robert Cavalli studied at the London School of Arts. In 2016 he moved to Milan and a year later he launched Triple Rrr. There will also be a photography exhibition to celebrate the launch of the new venture in Florence.

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MOCASSIN AS A CULT

Tassels, fringes or buckles: the moccasin is confirming its status as informal footwear that’s comfortable yet elegant: perfect to complete the outfit of the fashion-conscious man. At the Fortezza da Basso you can take your pick from all possible models, from the most classic version from Castori to the timeless range from Doucal’s, or the trendier, bolder versions presented by Fanga. The penny loafers with their traditional front ‘vamp’ with a perfect diamond cut may be embellished with stitching and colourful details such as those from Fratelli Rossetti: the important thing is that they always look as though they’ve just emerged from the hands of the shoe shiner.

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A WINTER OF TRENCH COATS

As we all know, the men’s wardrobe that enlivens the spaces of Pitti Immagine always features the latest trends in terms of elegance. This show includes a host of versions of a timeless classic that everyone loves: the trench coat. Perfect for completing both classic and youthful looks, the key is in the craftsmanship. The ribbed velvet version by Paltò is warm, contemporary and trendy, just like the tartan version by La Torre, or the destructured cut from Ioweyou. To suit more refined tastes, there are the creations from L’impermeabile and Rrd, for modern Humphrey Bogarts.
 

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GOING TO THE OFFICE WITH STYLE

Going to the office with style. Documents, laptops and tablets accommodated in practical bags with clean, minimalist lines from Serapian and Simpson London: both labels have chosen soft Bordeaux leather with rounded lines for their leading models, with handy zip closures or key lock buckles. The sharp cut presented by Nosakhari is also essential in concept, in two-tone but discreet leather. The other side of the coin is represented by the college-style look in products from The Bridge and Café Leather Supply.

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