Vestirsi da uomo 2012

Vestirsi da Uomo

Reflecting on male fashion and calling in a curator with indisputable knowhow, Marc Ascoli this time, to choose what best represents the idea of elegance at a given moment in time. Vestirsi da Uomo (Dressing like a Man) is the Fondazione Pitti Discovery project dedicated to modern male elegance as seen by Pitti Uomo with a selection of garments from collections by a group of companies at the fair: Barbour, Black Fleece, Borsalino, Cruciani, Engineered Garments, Folk, Herno, Lardini, Salvatore Piccolo, Santoni, Tonello and Yuketen.

MARC ASCOLI
I want the guests to spend a moment apart from reality and rethink fashion, as they wander through my curious display. I want to surpride all of their senses, and make them feel like children again
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The Collections
The stars will be clothes and collections from a group of very different and distinct Italian and international firms that express this new fashion concept through a product that can consistently combine artisan tailoring, styling, innovative materials and details with concreteness.
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Vestirsi da Uomo Atto II
At Villa favard, between coup de théâtre and magic. The Fondazione Pitti Discovery presents the special project devoted to the new contemporary classic look with a focus on new generation masculine elegance.
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MARC ASCOLI

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Marc Ascoli, Art Director of Vestirsi da Uomo

Creator of some of the most memorable fashion imagery, Marc Ascoli has partnered Yohji Yamamoto, Jil Sander, Chloé, Hugo Boss and Martine Sitbon. He has also worked with photographers of the calibre of Nick Knight, Peter Saville, Mario Testino and Paolo Roversi, but he likes to launch young unknown talents, such as Mert Alas and Marcus Piggot. Of his VdU he says, “I want the guests to spend a moment apart from reality and rethink fashion, as they wander through my curious display. I want to surprise all of their senses, and make them feel like children again”.

The Collections

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The twelve VdU brands express a fashion that is totally on-trend and very popular with the market, in a process that shuns excess or style breakages to embrace a modern reinterpretation that often features classic shapes - a vital idea of continuity. We asked them to tell us their three personal rules of male elegance and their reference icon.

Cristina Calori, President of WP Lavori in Corso

- Simplicity (always).
- Something vintage.
- It must be casual elegance.
- Steve McQueen and Vincent Cassel. 

 

Luca Gastaldi, CEO of Brooks Brothers Europe

- Deciding what to wear, taking the occasion into account: dressing appropriately is a question of good manners.
- Follow your own tastes and mood without calling attention to yourself – one's own personal style should make you feel good and be an expression of your own personality.
- Combining even unusual colours, but paying careful attention to the shade.
- Cary Grant.

Roberto Gallo, President cda Borsalino

- Close attention to detail and in the quality of the material when choosing accessories.
- Precision and simplicity in dressing, never more than 3 colours at once.
- Always wear a hat.
- Amedeo Modigliani.

Luca Caprai, Founder of Cruciani

- Always being elegant without compromising on comfort.
- Never leave home without a cashmere and silk pullover. It helps adjust to changing temperatures without taking up much room.
- Instead of the usual scarf, I prefer a pashmina during the winter months, with bright colours or perhaps a ton-sur-ton pattern. 
- Cary Grant.

Cathal McAteer, Creative Director and Founder Folk

- Anything goes
- Avoid high polish
- Shave your bollocks   
- A person that seems Dennis Wilson (Beach Boys drumer) and also Magico Gonzales (football player from San Salvador).

Daiki Suzuki, Designer Engineered Garments

- Uniform mentality 
- Comfortable 
- Not being self aware
- Fred Astaire

Salvatore Piccolo, Creative Director Salvatore Piccolo

- The wearability of the garments. Your favourite clothes should make you look good and feel good.
- Simplicity.
- A man's bearing. Without a certain presence, it is not possible to wear and do justice to the clothes you are wearing.
- Steve McQueen.

Claudio Marenzi, President Herno

- Being aware of your own physique, your character, and age.
- Seeking styles, colours, and models of products that are coherent with Point 1.
- Never stray too far from Point 2, except for subtle touches of originality in accessories like hats, gloves, ties, cuff links, and watches.
- My father.

Luigi Lardini, Creative Director Lardini

- A jacket must always have a handkerchief in the breast pocket.
- A distinctive sign in the buttonhole, better if it is a Lardini flower.
- That’s all.
- James Stewart.

Claudio Tonello, Owner of the brand Tonello

- The fine tailoring of the garments, attention to finishing touches and to details. These are the essence of male elegance.
- Innovation in researching materials enables the creation of a style that draws inspiration from the past yet emerges with a contemporary touch. 
- Going beyond the classics and interpreting them breathes new life into a concept of outerwear that embodies the essence of fine tailoring and an innovative sense of wearability.
- Sir Robert Anthony Eden (Britain's Prime Minister from 1955 to 1957).

Yuki Matsuda, Designer Yuketen

- Let it be.
- Have confidence .
- Live happily.
- Ernest Hemingway

Giuseppe Santoni, CEO Santoni

- Give yourself the luxury of a custom shoe created specifically for your foot, who signs his own style and personality.
- Combining a touch of informality and spontaneity to a detailed and elegant dress code, always pursuiting high quality. 
- Cultivating a taste for a personal elegance. Such as combining a sneaker with a classic tailored look, or a very classical double buckle shoe with unusual colors.
- Jude Law.

Vestirsi da Uomo Atto II

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The garden of the Villa Favard

The garden of Villa Favard, a neo-renaissance residence overlooking the Arno on the slopes of Bellosguardo, is now inhabited by mysterious anthropomorphic rabbits wearing formal, elegant, timeless suits in shades of grey and black. A tribute to David Lynch, the sitcom Rabbits and the film INLAND EMPIRE, the rabbits invite guests to enter the villa.

Catalogue

Lardini

Santoni

Tonello

Yuketen

The game of the mirror

A small stage set between golden frames, plasterwork and crystal, hosts a series of characters who play with their masks of crinoline and lace. Men or animals? They evoke fantastic, fairytale, supernatural creatures with an indistinct identity, on a fine line between male and female. Elements from men’s fashion, like constructed jackets and tailored trousers are contaminated by imaginative accessories and garments, big circular skirts and little tulle veils, cloth redingotes and lightweight shirts, distilling aesthetics that go beyond the concept of gender. 

Catalogue

Lardini

Tonello

La Veuve Noire

At the foot of the staircase a widow dressed all in black suddenly appears, lucid madness guiding her gestures and movements. She follows the guests, whispers mysterious words to them, seduces and frightens them. Perhaps she is in memory of the mysterious Baroness Fiorella Favard of Langlade, who in 1858 commissioned the architect Poggi to build this ostentatious Palazzo. The part of the not quite so merry widow is played by Raphaelle Boitel, a famous performer from the Club Silencio in Paris, designed by Lynch himself.

The library

A cornucopia of characters dressed in dazzling colours all intent on reading and playing, seated around a table. Shafts of light shine through the windows and light up bizarre hats, colourful masks and human figures that alternate with rabbit-men, some look like pictures “hung” over the fireplace, others walk about this huge frescoed room. An explosion of colour for the eccentric knitted creations by Polimoda students that mix with clean-cut minimal garments for a continual fusion of real and purely imaginary elements.

The thread that runs through all the tableaux is the music composed by Frederic Sanchez, which invades the Villa and leads us to the first floor.

Catalogue

Black Fleece

Black Fleece

Borsalino

Folk

Folk

Engineered Garments

Salvatore Piccolo

The Owlle's singing and the magic wardrobe

Walking up the staircase in Villa Favard we encounter a girl who sings: tawny hair, the eyes of a nocturnal animal and a warm magnetic voice. This is Owlle, who draws us to her like a siren.
 
On her right, a door leads to a bedroom furnished with a magic wardrobe inhabited by two sweaters that seem to exchange words and caresses. Every now and again, a rabbit arrives to disturb this loving couple during their surreal courtship.
 

Catalogue

Salvatore Piccolo

Cruciani

Cruciani

The three doors' guardians

The series of tableaux closes as it started with figures of rabbits coming and going through 3 doors. Here the outfits are more real: iconic garments by well-known brands are brightened up by crocheted rainbow trousers. Almost a work in progress to reveal a new concept of male elegance where mixing & matching and playful styling are an essential element. A finale that symbolically closes this second act of Vestirsi da Uomo.

 

Catalogue

Barbour

Barbour

Herno

Herno

Santoni

Vestirsi da Uomo by...

Susie Lau

"I think Marc Ascoli conceived an event of scale and ambition that combined the efforts of many creatives from different disciplines as well as the students at Polimoda.  It was a magical thing to escape into. Ascoli's masterclass has resulted in this night where the students collaborated with the creative director in taking pieces by the likes of Barbour, Brooks Brothers, Folk, Yuketen and Engineered Garments and putting them completely out of their context/comfort zone.  The inspiration points are of course pure David Lynch, derived from films such as his Rabbits series and Inland Empire, but the result is probably something more magical and uplifting than the Lynchian vision." 

 
 

Susie Lau - www.stylebubble.co.uk

Paulo Mariotti

The match between the beauty of the Villa Favard and the mysterious world created by Marc Ascoli impressed at the first place. The mix between the student pieces and the brand garnments was also surprisingly harmonious and fresh.
Between Alice in the wonderland and a David Lynch film the curator created a poetic atmosphere very far from traditional and marketed fashion presentations. With this creative and sofisticated presentation Marc Ascoli built a bridge between fashion and art.
 

Fashionista

I was blown away. I could have stayed there for hours. The concept was so creative, so subversive and playful at the same time. The setting couldn't have been more gorgeous and baroque and ornate--a perfect contrast to the creepiness within. It invited the viewer to be curious and explore--it was so much fun.
Aside from all the Donnie Darko-esque bunnies, the couture clothes in the window were just stunning. I was still able to appreciate the beauty of the garments even with bunnies and black widows whirring by.
 

Leah Chernikoff - www.fashionista.com

Light Design by Thierry Dreyfus
Set Design by Archivio Personale
Sound Design by Frederic Sanchez


The project was made thanks to the precius and valuable collaboration of the Fashion design students of Polimoda under the supervision of Patrick De Muynck.

Bianca Allen | Jessica Alvino | Sofia Antonielli | Giulio Bianchi | Caterina Biasuzzi | Fulvia Bottari | Eleonora Bruno | Gabriele Calvetti | Nicola Carissimo | Pia Chukerbuti | Ilenia Durazzi | Ji Eun Bae | Nozumu Fujiwara | Alessandra Giancecchi | Lucia Giolito | Yojiro Kake | Mantani Kazuna | Glenda Lagormarsino | Giacomo Lattari | Ruth Lilja | Riccardo Monagheddu | Marco Panconesi | Giulio Parigi | Patricia Perales Garcia | Adriana Rasi | Francesca Riva | Enrica Sablone | Federica Scalia | Irene Silvestri | Xueying Sun | Hinako Tanaka | Alessandro Tavanti | Marta Tesi | Paola Ye | Yanjie Zeng  | Jailing Zheng|


A very special thank you to Linda Loppa with Eva Karhanova

Thanks to Nathalie Ours