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Here are some of the major trends identified in Paris, New York and Milan:


ATHLEISURE / SPORTY CHIC

 

It would be impossible to ignore the great wave of athleisure. The risk of being overwhelmed by this sea of technical fabrics with references to RTW, sneakers and comfort wear would be too great. Fenty x Puma, Loewe, Hood by AIR, Balmain, Versace, Céline, Balenciaga… the list of brands with a bent for athleisure is truly wide-ranging! T-shirts, bomber jackets, raincoats, swimming costumes and maxi tracksuits: Stella McCartney disclosures her own personal ode to carefree summer days.

ph. Giovanni Giannoni

80s

 

Spandex, drapery and oversized shoulders. Not an image of yesteryear, but the Balenciaga fashion show in Paris. While what marked the debut of Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent is a veritable tribute to 1982: a reminder of the collection designed by Yves himself. But the souvenirs from the archives aren’t over with: metal, leather, thin stockings, stilettos and ruffles, as in the collection by Isabel Marant.

70s

 

In one word – Gucci! In Milan, the atmosphere is that of a nightclub from Saturday Night Fever in an ultra-chic version. In the collection designed by Alessandro Michele, all the eclecticism of contemporary life: platform shoes, metal details and lamé stand alongside punk details and long dresses full of ruffles that alternate with austere suits with a masculine, boot-cut look. But the 70s are also the inspiration for the prints on the blouses and the dresses chosen by Givenchy for its SS 2017 collection from Studio 54 chez Kenzo, a trip back in time to the atmospheres of New York in the late 70s.

60s

 

The 60s are reinterpreted by Miuccia Prada for Miu Miu’s SS collection. Elements of the bourgeois wardrobe are reinterpreted with a contemporary twist: macro print sponge coats, floaty shirt dresses and swimming costumes featuring swim caps with appliqué flowers.

METAL/Lamé

 

Chanel, Kenzo, Maison Margiela, Saint Laurent, Mulberry, Gucci… the metal effect dominates on the catwalks for upcoming SS 2017. Metallic shimmers light up club atmospheres or outfits with a strong urban impact.

Transparencies

 

Dior, Lanvin and Alexander McQueen bring transparency, semi-veiled looks and floaty, fine-quality fabrics to the stage. Nude effect layering and lace overlays are a very strong trend. A lace seduction also for the dresses designed by Nicolas Ghesquiere for Louis Vuitton.

New romantics

 

Ultra-feminine, romantic dresses, with lace and ruffles accentuating wrists and necklines, were a key element of this season. A trend seen on the catwalks of Fendi, Dior, Valentino, Gucci, Mulberry, Giambattista Valli, Rodarte and Preen, to name just a few.

Statement Sleeves

 

 

Emphasised silhouettes. Total overhauls. Oversized looks with rich, ruffled and squared shoulders. Flared cuts. The designers from all four fashion capitals look back in time, from the 80s back to the Renaissance, for inspirations for sleeves. This trend was seen on the catwalks of Tibi, Simone Rocha, Rodarte, Yves Saint Laurent, Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo and Loewe. Designers have shown that you can’t go wrong with big sleeves. And there’s more, rounded shoulders for Marni, Isabel Marant and Jil Sander.

Outerwear 2.0
Parkas and Trench Coats revisited
 
Marni, Balenciaga, Kenzo, Isabel Marant, Prada... the list is potentially very long. A whole host of brands brought these two famous outerwear garments, to the catwalk, revisited and deconstructed. Practical and lightweight but turned into even bolder trademarks of feminine style. 

At Givenchy, trench coats become sleeveless, with long zips running up them.

Underwear out
 

"Free your underwear!" seems to be the motto on the catwalks. In one word, overlapping! A real must for the upcoming SS season is, in fact, inverting the sequence of garments, wearing the last thing we would normally show off, in reverse order. Seen on: Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Prada and Alexander McQueen.

DENIM

 

The idea of seeing demin on the catwalks would have aroused much surprise until a few seasons ago. A material considered for leisure time, relegated to the weekend. Perhaps it is thanks to Vetements for having changed the cards on the table, bringing its deconstructed jeans onto the stage for SS 2015. For the next summer season, the jeans are revisited, embellished with embroidery and inserts. Denim trench coats, but also dresses. The evergreen jeans are at the centre of the Victoria by Victoria Beckham collection, but also present in the debut collection of Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior and in that of Vaccarello at the helm of Saint Laurent.