WANDA NYLON: S/S 2017 READY-TO-WEAR
Let’s congratulate Wanda Nylon’s Johanna Senyk - not for her well-deserved ANDAM win in July, but for resisting the temptation to let the award alter the raw allure of her brand. For while the turnout today may have been more substantial in quantity than before, and perhaps also in quality (a subjective measure), the venue preserved the same underground aesthetic previously employed to complement her nonconformist designs.
Still, the show was hardly status quo, with a shift immediately perceptible from the first look: a soigné one-shouldered jumpsuit pleated à la Miyake, and cooled up with a bucket hat dripping in chains plus motorcycle booties. Backstage, Senyk confessed that this was something she could see herself wearing—as if she were desperate for a counterpoint to the mildly kinky outerwear that had become her impermeable calling card. Hence, also, her experimentation with different materials, including woven metal mesh and Alcantara, a substitute for suede that, unlike skin, can be cut in large sheets. The resulting trench styles, uninterrupted by seams, emphasized the sharp tailoring that the eye may not detect in her high-gloss coats. [...].