“Daddy’s home!” That’s how we felt watching the first of the Gosha Rubchinskiy models walk in Kaliningrad. Precisely what you wouldn’t have expected… or would you? A young man opened the show – hailing, like his colleagues, from deepest Russia, and, like them, not a professional – wearing a light blue button-down shirt, a knit tie with tie clip and skinny trousers with belt; in him we saw for a moment the image of a father after a busy working day, on his return home, his sleeves rolled up on his forearms. Rubchinskiy’s proposal for FW 2018 is a wardrobe which has never been more complete: from tailored suits, in a nod to the military, to sportswear that exudes a passion for football, sublimely co-produced – and this season more than one item is the fruit of collaboration – with Adidas, you might note.
Another trip, another city, but the same tie clips. Certainly not the same, but the image of elegance that a dark blue suit and tie might have. This is Dior Homme and Kris Van Assche has some very clear ideas: he wants to give young men a new tailoring concept with an unexpected twist, allowing them to feel at ease even in a double-breasted pinstripe jacket. Sneakers, slogans and rock detailing. A contemporary nostalgia that encompasses trousers with cuts that go from super fitted to super loose – cargo style - and fur.
A hint of late '80s Giorgio Armani, but also the tradition of a fashion house that has made tailoring its flag. For Balenciaga, Demna Gvsalia brings to the catwalk long coats with strong shoulders, complete with the inevitable tie. But for him, suit rhymes with sexy, that young appeal that infuses his wardrobe, low-slung trousers just pushing the limits, adding puffer jackets, sneakers and sports style boots, for a look that is basically, and deliberately, young, even in its transversal nature.