Business of Fashion, June 17, 2016

Raf Simons, Gosha Rubchinskiy and Menswear's Gang Mentality

Menswear right now is all about perfectly formed sub-cultural style islands, reports Angelo Flaccavento from Pitti Uomo.

FLORENCE, Italy - Let's put this one bluntly: the chaos that has taken over the fashion system - a confusing, exploding, dazzling, infuriating agglomeration of everything and nothing pointing in a zillion different directions, simultaneously - is particularly apparent in menswear. It was clear at Pitti Uomo, the fair-cum-compact fashion week that closed yesterday in Florence.

There was everything on show, from Gosha Rubchinskiy's angst-ridden, Italian-stamped brand of post-soviet underage athleticism to Raf Simons romantic take on the poetic quest for self determination through sexual expression — think a young Robert Mapplethorpe slowly delving into the forbidden pleasure of S&M; from Fausto Puglisi's testosterone-fuelled foray into Roman machismo with a pornographic tingle to Lucio Vanotti's serene take on minimalist classicism and Visvim's Japanese interpretation of vintage Americana. Not to mention, of course, the wider than wide offer between the stands at the fair, ranging from traditional to contemporary, and back. Menswear, right now, is all about little islands: perfectly formed style monads that do not necessarily communicate one with the other.