Vogue Runway

Mary Katrantzou S/S 2017 READY-TO-WEAR

[....] With her Spring collection, Mary Katrantzou snapped back to own who she is: a great print designer, and a Greek one, at that - which is good.

“It’s funny, I never wanted to use classical Greek art, because being from there, it seemed too obvious,” she said with a shrug after her show. “But this time, I thought, ‘Why not?’ ”She looked back to her childhood visit to the ancient palace of Knossos, on Crete, the center of the Minoan civilization, which historians guess, from the visual evidence of artifacts and frescoes, was a culture run by women. So this was one of Katrantzou’s angles, the profiles of Minoan priestesses or goddesses (no one knows exactly), which appear in Cretan murals and the silhouetted paintings on Greek vases and plates, which she transposed onto the bodices of dresses, and, in a couple of cases, printed onto shimmery chain-mail tunics.
Katrantzou said she was also triggered by the words of a girlfriend who happened to remark, “Your work is so psychedelic!” She’d not seen her many-layered digital compositions that way before, but it led her to search out the trippy graphics of late-’60s and early-’70s music posters. So it went: Swirly prog-rock patterns met the symbols of the ancient Greek world in flared trousers and stretch T-shirts, layered under lots of the embellished dresses that have become Katrantzou’s signature. [...]