Aeronautica Militare - Among the innovations, the capsule collection dedicated to the Italian Flight Test Unit and the mini Air Force Academy collection, two projects rich in history, passions and emotions. Reparto Sperimentale Volo celebrates the excellence of this special unit of the Italian Air Force, responsible for trials in the air and on the ground for all the aircraft and flight materials. An exclusive selection of all-black sweatshirts, polo shirts, jackets and trousers, where the only colour comes from the heraldic symbol of the unit, the silver winged Icarus with three stars on a black background.
AirDP Style - The concept brand whose founders include Alex Del Piero is back at Pitti Uomo with its glasses and the first collection of chameleon-like sneakers made from a plastic, transparent, coloured and breathable material. The result is AirDP by iShu+ (Intelligent Shoes Hydro-Repellent Unit). Sneakers made from a high-tech material that is patented, transparent, breathable, hypoallergenic and flexible; a one-way valve in the heel - fulcrum of the transpiration circuit between the sole and the upper - a perforated, fragrant upper.
Alberto Guardiani - Heritage is the new FW17 lace-up: a model taken from the fashion house’s archives and then deconstructed and reconstructed according to contemporary aesthetic and functional criteria. The result is a streamlined derby with sneaker lacing, made from tumbled calfskin with a garnet red spoiler and an ultra-light rubber sole. The bold appeal, combined with craftsmanlike workmanship such as hand stitching, makes it an archetype of the lace-up 3.0.
Allegri - Teaming elegance and practicality to meet the need for protection and metropolitan comfort. A design concept where refinement and clean-cut shapes merge with high-performance fabrics. Stretch nylon borrowed from activewear is used for the raincoat with membrane backed reversible lining in cool wool. Polyester gabardine with techno membrane becomes tailored Raincoat and Pea coat. Fundamental element is the use of light weights for the Thermore® padding, insulation that does not preclude tailored elegance.
Angelo Nardelli - Connemara is an ultra-light jacket built on a water-repellent and stain-resistant material base, to stand up to any unexpected changes in weather. It features unique details to accommodate travel essentials: tickets, maps, notebooks, and there is even a pocket containing a rain hat. It is equipped with a special bag so you can pop it in your suitcase. And we can’t do without the essential garment dedicated to the coldest season: the coat, in stretch wool with customised lining.
Annapurna - The most prestigious ski resorts act as the background for the new winter collection. A trip and a suitcase containing everything you could want in the cold: iconic garments such as the technical ski jacket, the pea coat, the duffel coat, the shirt and the turtleneck. Garments that are warm, soft and comfortable.
It gives a nod to the 1980s, with knits that become a pattern of polka dots and colourful brushstrokes, covered with “snow” animals and redrawing the outlines of the peaks.
Baldinini – Shoes as style accessories, from Oxford lace-ups to moccasins and sneakers.
The colour black dominates, taking the starring role alongside dark shades. Noble, solid materials, with leather and rubber soles, leather welts and contrasting stitching. Suede, waxed, painted and abrasion-treated leather for an unexpected touch. The sneakers make use of velvets and technical fabrics, while the forest-version camouflage becomes the common thread of the collection.
Berwich - Blends of wool and cotton with a vintage effect reminiscent of the historic supplies of military forces, twisted cotton plaid check evokes the weaves of the past, as do the structures of the garment-dyed broken twill. Fits become more fluid on the pelvis and thigh, referring to the concept of the typical fit for a gentleman who does not like to wear close-fitting garments. From the homeless fit, with flat stomach and carrot-shaped leg, to the spirit fit, oversized or high-waisted.
Borsalino – Focus on the two-tone Diamante model and on the beaver felt Borsalino with a flat brim and silk terry ribbon. The ribbon, a cult detail, is made from crocodile skin, leather, wool, silk, camouflage or grosgrain effect velvet. Beanies, berets and baseball caps also come in 100% cashmere lined with a special membrane that makes them wind- and rain-proof. For the Borsalino capsule collection by Nick Fouquet, the Californian designer took his inspiration from the iconic films of 1970s Borsalino, starring Alain Delon and Jean-Paul Belmondo.
Cividini – Internal and external special effects reveal a dual soul for outerwear or knitwear. The green jacket-cardigan, ivy with a military twist, flashes a metropolitan grey flannel. The wind jacket is military green polyester on the outside but has a cashmere and wool lining with large sky blue areas. The round-neck sweater in the finest wool on the outside, has cotton crêpe inside in contact with the skin.
Doucal's - Classic footwear brand with an artisan spirit and a contemporary allure, born in 1973, Doucal's realizes shoes with a perfect British look and an Italian comfortable fit. On the occasion of Pitti Uomo 91, Doucal's will dedicate a special gift to its customers and the press: a key holder with the shape of a shoe, made of leather and customized directly at the stand by a guest artist.
Eden Park – A collection of ultra-warm, extremely comfortable garments, with a typically French twist hidden in the details. Different variations of the sports theme create various capsule collections, including a more traditional one, linked to the fashion house’s hallmarks, and one with a “modern college” mood, featuring clean silhouettes and a contemporary classic perspective. The Club line, on the other hand, blends excellent materials with the essential models of the rugby outfit, adding an exclusive touch, maintaining the objective of total comfort.
Eton – A Nordic style odyssey, where the Northern landscapes also influence the palette. The tradition of British tailoring meets Swedish craftsmanship, exploring a world of patterns and textures. Prints of Scandinavian origin, oversized paisley and macro polka dots stand alongside models projected to the future in indigo denim with double zips.
Gallo – The brand presents Coccogallo, a sock never seen before, created with craftsmanlike workmanship: Gallo reproduces the precious texture of crocodile skin on knitwear. The socks are made of ultra-fine lisle thread with a surprising trompe l’oeil effect, obtained thanks to looms from the 1930s. The colour palette is intense and bright: burgundy, ochre, green and chocolate shades that speak of wild nature.
Hanro of Switzerland – A journey to Iceland, the ideal scenario for the new line of underwear, sleepwear and loungewear. Noble cottons with the fine sheen of jersey and chambray, plus warm flannel tweed, wool-silk blends, jacquards, materials with different internal weaves and double-face outsides and reversible styles. The crossover is essential: the frontiers between formal clothing, a laidback casual and classic underwear merge. As in the new Living line, made up of Sleep & Lounge pieces for a Night to Day use.
Herno – Ultrasonic Thermal Fusion is the new processing technique for Herno padded jackets. Like inside a volcano, forms and masses fuse thanks to the heat, becoming elastic, shapeless and malleable. Herno Magma comes from a vulcanisation process in which the contemporary lines of the fabric come together, fuse and are reinforced. There are two models: a bomber jacket and a parka, made from "chalk style” technical fabric with anti-drip treatment and ultra-light goose down padding.
Larusmiani – A lifestyle project that celebrates for the first time ever the exclusive range handmade in Italy by Larusmiani, in conjunction with the knowhow of Aldo Lorenzi, patron of the historic Milan business that since 1929 has stood out for its refined knives and men’s accessories. On the Attic Floor of the Central Pavilion, a special "Gentleman's Trunk" will provide the backdrop for the luxury DNA of products by Larusmiani and Aldo Lorenzi.
Mandarina Duck - The YOU line, reinterpreted with a modern twist, takes its inspiration from the past, from the rubbery materials and minimal forms that made the “Tank” series from the 1990s one of a kind. The smooth, flowing lines of YOU are given by the diversity of the materials that make it up: the body of the bag is formed by a canvas interior, which goes on to join on both sides to rubber parts characterised by original processing.
MooRER – An elegant harmony of contrasts for padded patterned woollen coats embellished with windstoppers with coypu fur collars. The luxury side in leather and sheepskin is expanded with proposals like the parka with detachable shearling gilet. New hybrid garments that combine the functionality of technical pieces with urban style. The result is a group of new parkas made from technical, stretch bi-material with double padding. A brand new innovation is the Plasma treatment.
New England - The shirt lends life to the collection’s new entry, the jacket overshirt. Shirts that become light padded outerwear offering unique comfort. The light weight of the shirt combines with the warmth of the wool in a product to be worn over Tees or fine sweaters. A jacket to be folded like a shirt and put in a suitcase with no fear of it creasing.
Pringle of Scotland – For the second season running, this British brand chooses Florence and Pitti Uomo as the stage for presenting its new collection. On show, a range that focuses on the brand's core business – the production of knitted garments. Guided by Massimo Nicosia, Creative Director for Menswear at Pringle of Scotland, many new processes on a level of texture have been introduced, with new reworkings of the brand’s typical argyle pattern.
PT Pantaloni Torino – The new collection takes its inspiration from “Dead Poets Society” by Peter Weir. Poets Society is the part that breaks the rules of tradition. The models come in flannel or piece-dyed fabrics, full colours in shades of camel, burgundy, dark green and navy blue. Embellishment thanks to an aged gold button, reminiscent of the ring with which poets stamped the sealing wax, characterises the trousers with or without piping on the back pockets replicating the inner linings.
Replay - A return to the deepest roots of this brand, expressed through rebel souls and contemporary heroes. Contamination of styles: biker influences, military trends and references to the world of college come together. Parkas, bombers and biker jackets come in camo print and mixed with college sweats, shirts and denim or military inspired jackets. Icon garments include the military trench with patches, the camouflage biker jacket and the bomber version of the leather jacket.
Roy Roger’s – The Sevenbell group presents its new project Roy Roger’s + Liverano & Liverano sartoria Firenze for the first time at Pitti Immagine Uomo. These two historic companies team their creative codes to produce the first tailored jeans made in Florence, with refined details taken from garments made by hand.
The new Roy Roger’s + Liverano & Liverano jeans merges the tailoring tradition of Antonio Liverano with that of Roy Roger’s, under the creative direction of Guido Biondi.
Save the Duck – Christopher Raeburn creates the first luxury capsule for Save the Duck. Recycle is a menswear project featuring transformation thanks to adaptation, recycling and technology. Overlapping of garments, heat-sealing techniques and recycled high-performance fabrics, such as plumtech padding instead of feathers inside garments. Raeburn military recycling goes camo and travel, patchwork in various different kinds of camouflage creates the non-down puffer with no animal-origin fibres.
Sealup - The brand presents Sealup “PIUMA”! Sealup is actually the largest all-Italian manufacturer of goose down. The most important global luxury groups have always relied on Sealup for their highest-level production. A long study preceded the launch of a Sealup line of goose down which was original. It needed an extremely lightweight fabric that was waterproof and breathable, with a sophisticated colour range and ultra-reliable when it came to the sealing of the down. The down had to correspond to Sealup quality and ethical standards.
Serapian – Serapian launches its capsule collection inspired by the 1970s. Quattordici is the new limited edition, numbered leisure bag, available in three sizes combined with a ton-sur-ton washbag.
The materials chosen: opaque crocodile print calfskin, a jacquard fabric in shades of avocado green from the brand’s extensive archive and in stepan, a durable, waterproof material, the fashion house’s emblem.
Sevilla – For FW 2017-18, garment-dyed trousers will be characterised by many double twisted weaves and styles that are compact but always with a focus on fit. The jacquards choose subtle geometric designs such as diamonds, stripes, houndstooth, mini logos. Printed micro patterns are weaved into the fabric that is ready to dye and the yarn dyes to be dyed and treated on the finished garment. Cottons and wools with warm, soft styles in light colours and micro patterns reminiscent of the style of neckwear. The capsule collections include: Heritage, Clou and White.
Sutor Mantellassi – Inspiration focuses on the design of the Casa del Sole that Carlo Mollino designed in Cervinia in the 1950s. A meeting point for aristocrats and entrepreneurs, the Cervinia of the 1950s and 60s was the star of the film La Dolce Vita. A collection/tribute to that era and the Alps, where the colour palette ranges from wood tones to rock greys. Focus on hiking boots reinterpreted for the city, loafers with exotic leather tassels and footwear made using three materials: hand-dyed leather, textured leather and suede.
Tardia - A collection characterised by non-colour. The neutrals and natural dark colours inspired by the hessian canvases and burnt plastics of Alberto Burri condition the outerwear and knitwear with an embroidered, recycled effect. Wool plays a starring role on coats and jackets with a unified, drawn, woven appearance. Sometimes assembled with the technical materials with tone-on-tone effects, reminiscent of the artist’s textural contrasts. Smooth velvet appears in the finishes, fastenings and robe-effect jackets.
Tommy Hilfiger – For the first time, Tommy Hilfiger will be presenting at Pitti Uomo a careful selection of the Hilfiger Edition, Tommy Hilfiger Tailored and Tommy Hilfiger collections, all together in the same space. An invitation to check out models from the new men’s collection through a series of extraordinary digital tools, including touch screen walls and visual merchandising tools, together with the digital showroom, which revolutionises the purchase experience with a more engaging, extremely customised approach.
Thomas Mason - From the Scottish Highlands, elegance gets creative. The most distinguishing feature of Scottish clans, the finest tartans bring alive refined ties in a special 100% cotton fabric—also in a needled version—interpreted on grey, green or blue backgrounds. Wool and premium cashmere for the knitwear range: waistcoats with refined jacquard patterns, round-neck sweaters and ribbed cardigans with an innovative false stripe effect. The really warm jacket is ever present, knitted in military shades of grey and blue.
Z Zegna – Z Zegna chooses Pitti Uomo as the platform for the worldwide launch of its new lifestyle project. One of the world's most important companies of ‘made in Italy', Zegna returns to Pitti Uomo for the official preview of the Z Zegna sport collection, designed by Alessandro Sartori, the new creative director. The season’s theme is "Fashion meets Activewear”, with special focus on the Techmerino range.