Fashion & Buying Director, SMETS - Luxembourg
_ What does future in fashion mean for you, considering all the changes that we have recently noticed, such as see-now-buy-now, menswear and womenswear presented together, big brands' departures from a fashion week to another, changes in Creative Directors at the helm of griffes and labels?
Future of fashion is a very global term and you can interpret it through a lot of different visions… For me the future of fashion needs to be more connected to the present, to the young generation who is – and is going - to consume fashion and luxury. My advice to a producer would be to slow down over production, create more limited series and avoid to put such a huge amount on sales … it kills the business! Increasing quality, more collaborations between brands from different backgrounds, more connections with nowadays culture and generation, keeping emotions high, focusing on experience online and in store, service, education, mixing high luxury fashion with emerging labels, street vibes and being more global in terms of fields: gathering fashion, art, music, architecture, design to spread a strongest and more accurate creative message.
_ Which are in your opinion the brands/designers to watch for the next seasons? From which countries are the cutting edgiest ones at the moment?
Hard question, as the more you research the more you find interesting designers. During my trip to Korea, I was really impressed by creativity over there. Georgia and more generally designers from the Eastern countries are of course very cool. I’m still very sensitive to Japanese aesthetic and of course the LA one supported by all the young kids. To drop some names, I’m very curious about Raf Simons at Calvin Klein, Demna’s next season vision, Gosha Rubchinskiy, Virgil Abloh, Jacquemus, Ji Oh, Ader Error, A cold Wall, MasterMind, Doublet, 424, Kanghyuk, Roberts Wood, Shushu Tong…
_ Which are the main trends for the next Spring/Summer season? What about streetwear and athleisure... how do you think the attitude of the consumers has changed towards these fashion phenomena? Do you think, in a certain way, they affected the way the consumers buy?
Today is really the start of the SS18 buying season so not easy to depict a real image. Streetwear and athleisure are still very hot as it totally meets the way consumers are living today, being healthier, doing lots of sport, being part of a fashion community, meeting friends, spending time in the streets and creating a personal philosophy. But those trends are great because there exist as opposition/reaction to other ones. What makes fashion interesting is the mix. It’s important to avoid flatness otherwise people will get bored. It’s a cycle.
_ What do you expect from the next Pitti Uomo edition?
To be surprised by a concept I couldn’t have expected before attending Pitti Uomo… Love to be impressed, surprised and to have the opportunity to open my vision.