Style Notes

Pitti Filati 82 - january 2018
Texts by Elena Moretti

RESPONSIBLE INNOVATIO
Sustainability as the value of a choice
(read more)
ACTIVE LAB
research applied to performance effects
(read more)

RESPONSIBLE INNOVATIO

Back to top
An intelligent projection on the future of the planet:  Sustainability as a buzzword.

Nature, freedom, lightness, purity: all values to be rediscovered. The world is returning to respect for oneself which mainly begins with cherishing life. We live off whatever nature bestows upon us, focusing on yarns produced entirely using natural fibers. Natural fibers are the only zero impact renewable resource and drastically decrease the Carbon Footprint. From the encounter between warp and weft, the contemporary intertwining of the fruit of the unique and unrepeatable art of weaving.  A journey consisting of important choices on which many yarn manufacturers embark in order to guarantee that their products are always increasingly natural, sustainable and responsible. Choices that are distinguished by social responsibility, that regard sustainability and the inclusion of the entire production chain. But also investment that focuses on a niche of eco-friendly precious fibers, the result of cutting edge research. At the center of this deliberation are yarns based on a sense of excellence, of no-waste and a culture of simplified processes. With actions of recovery and regeneration, as well as re-engineering. A focus on organic linen and cruelty-free silk. Light bouclés, new blends of linen and natural fibers, original mouliné effects, cottons and silk. The dyeing process also uses sustainable and certified dyes, whilst the processing aims to locate itself in plants powered by hydroelectric and solar energy. Intuitions based on a profound expertise combined with technological mastery.

SHINING A LIGHT ON EXCLUSIVE YARNS

Back to top
A season that establishes a visual and tactile dialogue between the various
interpretations of cashmere displayed in an elaborate kaleidoscope of colors to fully exalt the lightness and intangibility of the most precious fibers. Ever finer gauges are created from the different ways used to process the raw material with diverse effects ranging from extreme volumes to soft consistencies. A sparkling proposal rich in structured magic for conveying emotions. In this way the nobility of the cashmere is blended with the exclusive element of the silk and cloaked in micro-sequins set in a thread of lurex to obtain an elegant effect, generating – with artisanal care and technological professionalism - hyper-light yarns suitable for any season. The velvety effect is combined with a brilliant lightness and fluffiness; precious unions of silk, extra-fine merino wool and super-fine alpaca for cloud-yarns on jewel-garments, woolen chains which contain a shiny lurex thread, discreet yet luminous, the construction of which ensures the maximum comfort on the skin. Plus, chenille, lurex, viscose and silk meet fine yarns like yak, baby alpaca, extra-fine merino wool in products that are capable of mixing fashion and luxury, glamour and classic.
Unmissable in the color charts for SS 2019 are pastel nuances, shades of gray, pink and green for a delicate image reminiscent of nature in springtime; alongside these are vivid and brilliant tones created to evoke the vibrant energy of the summer.  New tactile sensations for a modern classicism with a fanciful dash.

ACTIVE LAB

Back to top

“Performing” is increasingly becoming an essential characteristic in the eyes of the modern consumer. The research carried out by companies is applied to a proposal of yarns with technical features that are able to offer wellbeing and service throughout the day. The protagonists, viscose, cotton and nylon for a precious, performing look, or wools blended with fibers with a strong tech imprinting (Tencel, carbon, siliconized nylon). Versatile, comfortable on the skin, total easy care, performance yarns tick all the right boxes in order to meet the “active”demands of an across-the-board public. The point of arrival is a work, leisure, sport and underwear wardrobe built using yarns with intrinsically natural characteristics, high levels of thermal insulation, maximum elasticity, absorbency, antibacterial and hypoallergenic functions, lightness and softness. Extreme research for the viscoses with crepe, dry and textured structures. Yarns that suggest technological jerseys with weightless volumes, sparse, barely covering, in perfect street style. The cotton has a jeans look and bleached colors.  New multicolor printing techniques for a revisited metropolitan camouflage. The inter-seasonal yarns exhibit stretch structures and complex blends of cotton, cashmere, viscose, modal and linen. They stand out for their slimness, fluid drape, essential touch and sophisticated chiné colors. The attention to detail and extreme customization reflect the idea of a one-off garment. The gauges are very slender and almost intangible for the technological yarns, super-light for the extra-twisted viscoses and nylons, medium-thick for the ethnic sporty yarns. Cold colors assert themselves with a polychromatic dynamism softened by the neutrals revisited with metallic touches. Pastels assume chalky shades. Neutrals are colored to become slightly faded. Brights are luminous yet dense and saturated. Darks are opaque and colored for a more classic elegance.