Style Notes

Pitti Filati 81 - june 2017
Texts by Elena Moretti

FLUFFY WINTER CLOUDS
Lightweight and fluffiness come up in new and fabulous blends. Luxury yarns with an extraordinary feel.
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SUSTAINABLE CREATIVITY
A new philosophy with an eco-friendly spirit is the driving force behind research aiming for sustainable solutions where creativity is at nature’s service.
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MANUAL VS. VIRTUAL ART
Knitted garments are – or simulate – handmade, with three-dimensional stitches, exasperated fringes, and the thick yarns that resemble animal fur or other lifelike looks.
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FLUFFY WINTER CLOUDS

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Alpes Manifattura Filati – The collection has been enriched by the soft and precious characteristics of Baby Alpaca – Sushi – Babele – and it also confirms the extension of mélange and solid colors developed in superfine Alpaca blends, in raised and subtly plush versions - Spumante - up to bulky twisted artisan yarns with the speckled look of Cuzco Cotton. Softness and lightness are expressed in Ameba, the Superkid Mohair with delicately clinging elasticity in contrasting mélange colors. The fancy yarns range from bulky bouclé meshed with mohair to ultra-soft furry effects, bold slub effects, or thick rovings. Extensive research into a new range of mélange and shaded mouliné tones, in harmonious combinations or in contrasting Alpaca blend yarns, represent the core business of the collection. 
 
Filpucci – The Tuscan spinner par excellence celebrates its 50th anniversary. Yarns, performance, and unconventional features undergo a revolution. Stretch, glossy, clean tech-type and compact yarns, luminous frostings, extremely fine stretchings, and caged yarns: modern yarns for clean and compact knitting. Newly released: MEME gauge 14, 2/48000. Superfine core-spun stretch wool that is streamlined and sophisticated, for active and technical knitwear with a soft touch.  Pleasant memories of the highlands and mountains, soft blends of protective and rare fibers (baby alpaca and yak). An art-ethnic and gently rustic mood, with furry surfaces or surfaces reminiscent of compact, spongy musk. Hybrids that imitate re-generated elements. Brand-new: PITTURA, gauge 12, 2/48000. Creative writer-style graphic design. Dotted micro-writings for new mélange effects:  an artistic-geometric pattern for youthful, smart, and sophisticated knits. CIPRIA gauge 14, 24000. This winning item makes its return in seasonless stretch matte viscose. It combines a high-performance profile with an easy-care Machine washable label.
 
Ilaria Manifattura Lane - Highly technological yarns are developed to create the most pleasant and natural tactile sensations, while adhering to a completely sophisticated look. The key features include sophisticated, delicate, and protective mélange shades and the noblest blends. Wild-looking furry yarns are made soft by the extremely high quality of raw materials that maintain a soft and warm hand. Matte and silky features are used to create partial feltings and ultralight gauzy effects. The yarns used in protective applications are extremely lightweight and imitate nature: bark, rough textures, yarns printed with wood effects, marbling, twisted, malfilé, and bouclé suited also to hand-knitted fabrics, links, plain stitch and reverse stitch, dual gauge, multilayer, paddings, tubular processes, and embroideries. A yarn par excellence is proposed for the company’s fiftieth anniversary: Super Kid with a 50000nm thickness and unique light (as a throwback to its founding years).    
 
Isy by Torcitura di Domaso – They belong to the category of “posh” yarns that includes the finest blend of silk, worsted baby alpaca and super kid mohair. Meribel, Hair, Beauty, Baby, Bella with gauzed effects and slightly blowed. Baby light, Bella light, and the fine-spun Titti, featuring shiny / opaque contrasts, given by the addition of tone-on-tone metallic yarns. Mixer, like a mousse for 5” gauge, in glossy matte effect, for a sportier look and a sophisticated hand at the same time. Bubi an extremely soft mélange chain for 5” gauge in baby alpaca and extra fine merino wool. Pansina, lightly stretched, to give steam to an incredible mix of selected raw materials, such as Super Kid Mohair, Alpaca baby, Makò Cotton and Modal.  On-trend for the season is ultra lightweight chenille for 12” gauge in both an intimate blend of silk and Makò Yuki cotton, and in worsted cotton with Peposo polyamide.
 
Lana Gatto – The colors of flowers and exotic fruits inspire the shades of the collection for the forthcoming summer season, speaking the language of natural, lightweight, yarns, which are pleasant to the touch, yet also resistant. The brand heading Tollegno 1900 does not sacrifice the glamorous appeal entrusted to its products, and so aesthetics are matched with research and performance. “Exotic”, “Summer” and “Party” become the keystones of a line that focuses on a playful mood, unexpected combinations, and a beach lifestyle. The summer 2018 revolution for Lana Gatto begins with the evocatively and aptly named BIKINI for use in this kind of product: the yarn, which is 100% acetate, thanks to its high performance features (maximum resistance to UV rays and saltwater, with extremely rapid drying times), is ready to become a cult classic.
 
Mister Joe – The company specialized in Mohair and fantasy yarns proposes six new fashion atmospheres in its new collection. MINIMAL CHIC: ultra-fine gauges for light caresses with a fusion of Baby Alpaca, Mohair, and fine Merino Wool dedicated to essential knitwear. FOREVER: yarns with a traditional look in heavy gauges for a timeless line of knitwear. GIPSY: yarns inspired by Northern populations, as an ode to wild nature. Surfaces and structures with an animalier flair, soft Astrakhan furs in Mohair and Alpaca. POP: a modern style made of bold-looking colorful yarns, with movement provided by irregular surfaces and matchings of British colors. RELAX: chenille yarns made in Viscose, Cotton, and Linen to convey unique tactile sensations. MOONLIGHT: sophisticated jewel yarns where foils and lamé shavings blend with fine Mohair yarns. 

 

Todd & Duncan -  Celebrating 150 years of history, the Fall/Winter 2018-19 season of Todd & Duncan presents the perfect opportunity for digging through its extraordinary archives, in order to re-propose colors that represent an iconic “Scottishness”. This research and revamping of the rarest colors is the starting point for the new “Heritage colors” collection, next to the archive’s historical colors. A celebration of Lochleven Mills, which is at the heart of the Todd & Duncan story. Heritage colors:  there are 12 new “Heathered” Mélanges that represent recollections of another era, with close ties to the earth, sea, and skies of Scotland. These color matchings were associated in the past with fabrics. Not to be missed: Composition: 100% Cashmere. Count: 2/28Nm. Knit on: 12ndle. Multiply for 8, 5, 2.5ndle. The New and Archive Colors are those of the past and present: Archive, as cutting-edge today as they were 30-40 years ago, and New, taking the pulse of modern times.

SUSTAINABLE CREATIVITY

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Cariaggi Fine Yarns Collection – A collection based on an eco-friendly philosophy combined with a creative vein that draws inspiration from travel and photography. A new luxury “athleisure” imbued with naturalness and respect for the environment. It highlights all that is rare and precious, such as cashmere and silk, which are washed and enhanced with different effects to provide incredible volume and a soft, fluffy consistency. Novelties include a new worsted yarn called GALA (78% Cashmere 22% polyamide, count NM 4300) that gives an elegant fur effect and feels extraordinarily soft and light to the touch. The jewel in the crown of the collection is the new exclusive worsted yarn IKAT (76% cashmere and 24% silk, count NM 2,200) which comes from blending the best cashmere fibre with silk. The use of coloured cashmere fibre and the technique of teaseling emphasizes the “brushed” effect, enhancing the softness of the yarn.
 
Dicart – Sustainability is the buzzword. The vegetable fibers used are mostly derived from the wood pulp making up the outer cell wall of plants. Natural fibers are the only renewable resource with zero environmental impact and are key to drastically reducing the Carbon Footprint. The blending of warps and weaves yields contemporary fabrics that are fruit of a unique and unreaptable textile artistry. The fabrics are offered with paper warps counting around 400 warp threads, or cotton warps of 1200 or 4800 warp threads. At the base of each weave are paper yarns: they come available in a thickness of Nm/4 and 15 different colors, next to combinations of paper and linen, and paper and cotton. For Pitti Filati 81, an original concept, in a never-before-seen combination, is proposed: paper and wool. Paper yarns are proposed in three main trends in a multitude of colors, together with wool, extra fine Merino wool, and Mohair wools.  
 
Industria Filati Buzau – Nature, Air, Liberty, lightness, purity, sincerity, honesty, and values of a daily life that are meant to be rediscovered. The world returns to a philosophy of self-respect that uses nutrition awareness as its main starting point. Living off what nature provides: this is the basis for the launching of the Vegan Yarn line, a yarn entirely made of natural fibers of non-animal origins. A composition that ranges from Light Cotton with linen, to Cotton with bamboo viscose, all Vegan Free certified. From PUTA, LIGHT yarn, which is 69% cotton, 15% acrylic, 16% linen nm 3.1 to FLOCOS, LIGHT yarn, 70% cotton, 15% acrylic, 15% bamboo viscose, nm 3.2. Lightweight yarns, which are soft, comfortable, and pure, and naturally uncolored or in the colors chosen for them by nature.
 
Michell – The brand of Michell & Cia.S.A., based in Arequipa (Peru), which is renowned worldwide for producing the Finest Peruvian Alpaca fibers, celebrates its 85th anniversary by bringing its complete offering for the FW 18/19, while also launching a new proposal of super voluminous yarns developed by Michell Yarn Design Studio. The brand’s Andrean Heritage is a constant source of inspiration for the collection and for the three lines Puna, Quechua & Chala, which use the finest and most luxurious Alpaca qualities: Gold Alpaca (19/20mic), Baby Alpaca (21/22mic) and FS Alpaca (25/26mic). The brand also presents the Eco Alpaca and Blends Yarn Collection.
 
Sesia Manifatture 1963 – High quality classic and fancy yarns for knitwear, hand-knitting, and weaving in natural fibers pure or blended. Certified ORGANIC yarns made of cotton, cotton/linen and wool. STOCK SERVICE in: pure cottons, viscose blend, wool, wool blend, cashmere blend, alpaca, wool/alpaca, and silk. Without forgetting the "20 for you" range, with 20 colors readily available in stock for many items of the collection.
 

Tollegno 1900 - Tollegno 1900 presents its #24hourworkandleisure collection that showcases Merino Wool (ultrafine and extrafine) and Cashmere -  in their pure forms and in technical blends with fibers – that can be worn all day long, ensuring well-being, comfort, and maximum performance, thanks to special technical qualities. With a view to constant development and innovation, the brand has created new “Performance” products that make “total easy care” their trademark, together with naturalness, a high level of thermal insulation, maximum stretching, high absorption capacity, lightness, and softness. These are the origins of “Sixtywool Topwash” (Extrafine Merino Wool and Polyacrylic), “Free Topwash” (100% fine Merino Wool) and the two variants “Cooper” and “Abarth” (60% Pure Merino wool, 40% nylon TEC) with intrinsic characteristics that satisfy the needs for performance and versatility common to the contemporary man.

MANUAL VS. VIRTUAL ART

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Burns & Factory CO.,LTD – The main strength of the company based in Toyko is creating items of clothing staring from a single yarn. With a production that is mostly made up by knitting fabric for outerwear, Burns & Factory creates garments that fully respect the environment and the quality of the different yarns, thanks to its use of one-of-a-kind machines. The result is special combinations of multiple yarns of various gauges, for the production of jerseys in particular, creating exclusive tactile sensations dedicated to complete comfort and an ideal fit. In particular, for cashmere double face fabric, the company has achieved a “tactile” level of extraordinary qualitative levels, which is recognized by numerous international fashion brands. 
 
Elsamanda – Elsamanda produces knitwear for collections and prêt-à-porter. The company was established in 2007 in Carpi, right in the heart of the textile industrial district, by the sisters Annalisa and Paola Candeli, whose passion and expertise in the fashion industry led them to start one of the most successful knitwear producing companies in the Italian panorama. Elsamanda cooperates with worldwide famous fashion brands, offering refined knitwear in a very wide range of colors, starting from ivory, dove-grey, dark brown, grey with all its shades, and the cheerful and fascinating range of trendy colors. It produces over 200 samples per season of knitted items in heavy gauges, which enrich the garment with the most elaborate knitted stitches like cables, ribs, lozenges, English knit stitch, stockinette stitch, and perforated lace stitch.
 
Feel Blue - ETHNO ENERGY: an ode to celebrate the diversity of populations, by touching upon a full range of cultural identities. The result is a mash-up of innovative interpretations, where stylized animals of African origins are alternated with Japanese floral fantasies, and ancient Persian rug motifs are alternated with classic Scottish tartans. HYPER DECORATION: a push towards an ethical fashion aimed at readapting precious and/or symbolic elements, transforming and re-elaborating knitwear through new eyes. MANUAL ART: the knit accessory that represents, or imitates, the art of hand-crafting; the three-dimensionality of knit stitches, exaggerated fringes, the use of voluminous, twisted, and cut yarns that imitate animal pelts, with raw organic features. VIRTUAL ART: a blending of design, fashion, art, and technology. Virtual art comes to life through innovative design, using expressive vehicles like patent leather prints, latex, reflex, iridescences, bright sheens, and metallic effects. SUBLIMATION: highlights quality, fine yarns, silken flashes, sophistication and poise, but also asymmetry and extremely virtuous styles.    
 
Linea Adani – The buzzword is KNIT, which is experienced through colors, trends, femininity, and atmospheres. Innovation and expert workmanship for a product that is always fashionable. Collaboration and creativity: from choices in colors, yarns and their interpretations, to careful finishings and meticulous details, collaborating with customers to create a product suited to their needs. Flexibility in creating any kind of knit product, in a path of development that starts with the idea and ends in production.    
 
Maglificio Pini - At Pitti Filati 81, Maglificio Pini will showcase its very best leading garments produced over the last 40 years for the knitwear world: 80’s-style oversized multicolor jacquard next to mini dresses featuring complex lace stitches, garments that mix knit with other fine materials (like shearling or crocodile), weaves with leather, stretch viscose technical stitches, ending with classic ribs and mixes of the most innovative stitches.
 
Maglificio Pisani – Based in Cilavegna for the last 40-plus years, the key factor to this company’s success has been its ability to act not only as a supplier, but also as a partner to its customers.  A willingness to listen to customers’ needs, combined with continuous innovative research into raw materials, production processes, and quality control systems, have transformed yesterday’s small artisanal workshop into today’s solid production reality capable of producing more than 60,000 garments per year. Maglificio Pisani carefully monitors the entire knitwear production supply chain, through its in-house weaving, packaging, fulling and ironing departments, in order to produce samples and serial productions. Specialized in the manufacturing of cashmere and fine yarns, it also processes lighter yarns such as cotton, linen, and silk.
 
Moda Futuribile: Also present within the context of Fashion at Work is the Moda Futuribile project by Dyloan Studio - which proposes to valorize the excellences of the Italian fashion system by developing a series of items that embody the know-how and design synergies that spring from manufacturing and creativity – with the theme Inspiration Galore!, a grouping of knitwear items independently manufactured and developed by an integrated and totally Made in Italy production chain.