Style Notes

Pitti Immagine Filati 83 - june 2018
Texts by Elena Moretti

Eco-sustainability: an intelligent outlook for the planet’s future
Nature, freedom, lightness, and purity: values meant to be rediscovered. Starting from the concepts of sustainability and wellbeing that are redesigning the future, the FW 2019/20 world of yarns invites us to discover new blends developed from the unusual rapport between fine and technological fibers. The answer to the needs of an increasingly complex life arrives from a more intuitive communion with nature. The world returns to a philosophy of self-respect: living off what nature provides, with a focus on yarns entirely made of natural fibers.
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Jewels steeped in mystery: new opalescent yarns
In an era led by an obsession with data, there is an increasingly strong interest in striking aesthetic atmospheres. Research follows these guidelines, translating an aesthetic and emotional need into yarns. Yarns present chameleon-like colors, for fairytale knits, which are both magical and ethereal. Velvet surfaces become opulent, glossy, and sensuous. Extremely bright metals with iridescent effects convey a sense of fluid motion to surfaces. A triumph of multicolored lights for fantastical, iridescent, and ultra-modern knits recall the wings of a moth, beating and shimmering in the moonlight.
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Clouds of precious yarns intent on inciting emotion
Shades of color warm a naturally rich line of knitwear, enhanced by craft workmanship and original structures, where wool is blended with cashmere. For glamour knitwear, sparkling and luxurious, natural fibers are woven with lurex and modest sequins, and spun from pure cashmere and extrafine wool. Collections are aimed at inciting emotion and highlighting the concept of all that is rare and fine like cashmere and silk, which are hand worked and enhanced through different effects, and by extreme volumes and a plush consistency.
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Eco-sustainability: an intelligent outlook for the planet’s future

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BOTTO GIUSEPPEWinter yarns are light and airy, featuring air-jet processing. In tweeds, the shades of colour add warmth to rich knitwear, embellished with craftsmanship and original structures, where wool blends with cashmere. For glamorous, sparkling and luxurious knitwear, natural fibres – pure cashmere and ultra-fine wool – are intertwined with lurex and discreet sequins. With the growing demand for natural, sustainable fibres, especially wool, the Naturalis Fibra collection offers excellent qualities, sourcing from several of the largest farms in Australia and China. The wools are certified Cradle to Cradle by type of breeding and treatments while processing the material as well as for dyeing.
 
CARIAGGI FINE YARNS COLLECTIONStarting from values such as sustainability and wellbeing, which are redesigning the future, the new collection invites us to try out new combinations in an unprecedented interaction between noble fibres (cashmere) and technological ones. The Autumn/Winter 2019-20 collection enhances the vitality of tactile perceptions, through a mix of the animal and vegetable worlds. New arrivals include a new carded yarn called MOSS (100% cashmere NM 2/3,500), deliberately irregular and wavy for a unique, ultra-soft effect. MOSS is a knickerbocker yarn with contrasting colours combined with bulkiness and a lightweight nature. Its fine quality is the result of selecting the best fibres of the cashmere goat (Capra Hircus Laniger) from Inner Mongolia.
 
FERNEY SPINNING MILLS – A collection that expresses the perfect balance between sobriety and glamour, tradition and innovation. Absolutely stunning natural fibres dictate fluid forms: formal is deconstructed, informal becomes sporty. In the spotlight we find cashmere, yak and alpaca but above all merino wool with its extraordinary versatility: sometimes ultra-thin or with a handcrafted appearance, always aesthetic and high-quality. And then come the “new generation” fibres like Biofeel nylon and Cocona nylon that amplify performance in terms of comfort and eco-sustainability.
 

LANIFICIO DELL’OLIVOLanificio dell’Olivo has developed unique expertise in the worsted spinning of noble fibres such as baby alpaca, mohair, silk and the finest wools as well as the twisting of fine materials to create patterned effects. With the Going Green program and the adhesion to 4 Sustainability, a protocol promoted by the Consorzio Promozione Filati, Lanificio dell’Olivo undertakes to produce sustainable supplies with quality products and processes that respect the environment, the health of workers and consumers.

Jewels steeped in mystery: new opalescent yarns

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FILPUCCI - Values, fantasy and multi-dimensionality. Fantasy yarns are once again the great protagonists, but with a complex, often three-dimensional profile. A magical, almost surreal aura shines from the central material core of the yarn, revealed on the surface in fullness and iridescence. Sometimes hiding beneath the volume are hollow areas, as in the case of the historic Soffili, the first to defy gravity, now flanked by the new Air. This three-dimensionality is also manifested in the extralong fleece of the mohair-like Fur with metallic fibres, drops of light and contrasting highlights.
 
INDUSTRIA ITALIANA FILATI – Ideas, imagination, flexibility and tradition can be found in the 60 yarns that make up the two lines of the Collection: Accademia and Industria. Mohair is produced with the utmost respect for people and animals. It features various levels of teaseling effects, both firm and stretch & comfort. The colours are solid, mélange and chanteclair. The alpacas are pure or with wool, always enveloping, reassuring and classic. A new blend comes in the form of alpaca/mohair, available in varying looks and qualities. The weights are extremely light, even when the yarn has a considerable volume. The concept of lightness now applies to all fibres, to feel the warmth of a garment without perceiving its weight. Metallic yarns, knots and lurex cuttings are a throwback to the eighties.
 
LINEAPIU’ ITALIALineapiù Italia presents Sparkling and Lumière, two new yarns with a strong chromatic personality, chameleon-like yarns brimming with iridescent lights. In an era driven by the obsession with data, the interest in aesthetic atmospheres full of unexpected surprises is always growing. Lineapiù Italia research is moving in this direction: the yarns feature mysterious lights and chameleon-like colours for fabulous, magical and ethereal sweaters. The surfaces of the velvets become opulent, shiny and sensory. High-gloss metals with iridescent effects give the surfaces a sense of fluid movement. Sparkling: a triumph of multi-coloured lights for fairytale, iridescent and ultra-modern sweaters. This is a multi-chrome lurex velvet in which the iridescent essence of the colours is linked to the changeability of the times.
 
TCP Warm, fine knitwear created by combining high-quality silk and the finest merino wool. The glossy sophistication of the silk highlights the chromatic effects and inspires a soft, fluid touch. New mélange and mouliné effects also come to life in 100% Soffio and Soffio Più silk. The silk threads intertwine with Lurex, veering towards dense cosmic tones.

Clouds of precious yarns intent on inciting emotion

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FILATI POWERFor three generations, Filati Power has been working in the field of fine yarns. It was set up in 1981 by Giuseppa Momi, who founded the company in Bevagna (PG), in the heart of medieval Umbria, still its headquarters today. In the nineties, production and marketing focused on a high-quality product: cashmere. All this, combined with the care, style, creativity, attention and knowledge of the Italian production force. For this reason, respecting tradition, the company offers a product that is made in Italy in every phase, targeting a highly specialised clientele with sophisticated tastes.
 
MICHELL – The Michell & Cia S.A. brand, based in Arequipa (Peru) and renowned throughout the world for its production of the finest Peruvian Alpaca fibres, celebrates its 86th anniversary by bringing its complete range for the A/W 19-20 season and launching a selection of voluminous threads developed by the Michell Yarn Design Studio. The heritage of the Andes is a constant source of inspiration for the collection and for the three lines Puna, Quechua & Chala, which make use of the most luxurious qualities of Alpaca.
 
MISTER JOEThe collection stems from the desire to reinterpret the use of natural noble fibres with a modern, creative slant through the rediscovery of six remote places in the world. Among these, we find Peru: comfort, sweetness and richness are the basis of Baby Alpaca yarns blended with Merino Wool and Mohair in natural melange colours. For Patagonia, Baby Alpaca, Merino Wool and Cashmere make up yarns from a noble tradition with a lived-in atmosphere. And again, from the Mongolia theme: exuberant structures with voluminous surfaces: padded, bouclé and teaseled furs in dégradé shades and delicate mélange colours.
 
POLIPELI – The best materials and the most advanced technologies meet imagination, professionalism, human resources and determination to create, perfect and offer the best products. This results in fine yarns for weaving and knitting, raw and above all mélange dyed in tops, linear and patterned, bouclé, frisé, caged, hollow, blown and shot yarns. They specialise in using noble fibres such as Cashmere, Camel, Angora, Mohair, Alpaca and Virgin Wool, processed in their pure forms or blended with Silk and Linen.
 

TOLLEGNO 1900 – Wool is available in all its variants, from the most basic to the finest, from pure versions to blends with silk or cashmere. The emblem yarn of the Biella-based company, Harmony presents itself with an image that has been completely revamped and with improved performance compared to the previous “top wash” version. Harmony 4.0 (100% Extra-Fine Merino Wool) is able to meet the needs of practicality and ease of use imposed by everyday life without forgetting aesthetics and pleasantness to the touch.