Fashion Diary Pitti Uomo 85

The new, unexpected. But most of all the news. This is the thread that leads the Fashion Diary of Pitti Uomo 85, made with MFFashion, the first and only European newspaper devoted to fashion and luxury - said Giampietro Baudo, Editor in Chief of MFFashion - It will be an insight into the world of fashion: behind the scenes with the designers, face to face with entrepreneurs. To understand autumn-winter 2014/15 men’s wear through the voices of the actors in the industry.

Scotch & Soda becomes Atelier

 

Scotch & Soda has christened its first tailored clothing collection, the Dutch groups seventh project and first foray in the luxury market. The line, called Atelier Scotch, puts the accent on suits, jackets and shirts that will comprise more than 60% of the deluxe offering – but the atelier line includes coats, outerwear, knitwear and accessories. Atelier Scotch will be distributed in parallel with the main brand and plans are already in the works for the opening of the first store dedicated solely to the new label…in Amsterdam. 

The Bridge calls on Eduardo Wongvalle

 

A “top of the line” alliance for The Bridge. The brand that clocked earnings of 23 million euros in 2012 has picked designer Eduardo Wongvalle, who has worked with names such as Bottega Veneta, Christian Dior, Ungaro, Nina Ricci and Giorgio Armani, to created a capsule collection of ten bags for men: rucksacks, shopping, messenger and carry-all bags. "By choosing Eduardo, we wanted to rewrite our brand’s codes and values in contemporary key”, said Lorenzo Ferri, marketing and sales manager of The Bridge. "Our objective is to move towards the premium segment with this collection”.

A co-branding full house for Hydrogen

Hydrogen now holds a co-branding full house. After having signed an agreement with FIAT,  in 2005, for a sweatshirt line, the streetwear brand is continuing its synergy with the world of motors, allying itself with Automobili Lamborghini, with which they had already partnered in the past, and with Mv Agusta – two names that are more oriented towards the world of fashion. The union with Superga led to a sneaker with the famous skull logo while the cooperation with K-way made the ultra-lightweight windbreaker in the camouflage pattern and with skulls a long-lasting classic. 

Baracuta brings in Jeff Griffin

 

A new designer will be writing the brand’s future. Baracuta, the label purchased by the WP Lavori in Corso group in 2012, is coming to Florence with the first collection designed by the new creative director, Jeff Griffin, and called Baracuta Blue Label. "This project started as a capsule designer collection, a workshop in which to experiment with different interpretations of a heritage menswear brand like Baracuta", explained Cristina Calori, president of WP Lavori in Corso. "After the first collections by Kenichi Kusano from Japan, we have turned to British designer Jeff Griffin, who will write our brand’s future".

A day at the circus with Casamadre

 

Alessia Crea and David Parisi continue to astound with their Casamadre footwear. And they set up an old-fashioned, 1930s Fellini-style circus  at the Limonaia of Villa Vittoria to present their 2014/15 fall winter collection. "We want to convey the message of a family, a community that travels around the world while remaining true to itself and its roots. Just like the traveling circuses, but it is mainly a concept that reflects the Casamadre philosophy in full”, is how the designers explained it.

Pony teams up with Acf-Art Comes First

 

The sneakers label, Pony – the acronym for Product of New York – is making its debut at Pitti Immagine Uomo.  The label, founded by Roberto Muller in the 1970s, presents a capsule collection together with the artistic-creative collective Acf-Art comes first, created by Sam Lambert and Shaka Maidoh. 

Gandy dancers wearing Superduper Hats

 

The Dogana will be the setting for the presentation/performance by Superduper Hats, the brand created by Matteo Gioli, and Veronica and Ilaria Cornacchini. "We are bringing an atypical event, enlivened by a multitude of characters, to Florence. If the last collection centered on the hobo, the twentieth century vagabond who hopped on freight trains looking for freedom, the new one is faithful to the same scenario, while broadening its horizons and changing perspectives. The new protagonists are the gandy dancers, the men who laid railroad tracks using a steel bar to keep them aligned and a chant to mark the time so that their movements became a sort of dance” is the explanation we heard from the trio hiding behind the label that brought the hat back to center stage.

The new Diesel Black Gold era

 

"I love the dressed up feeling and power that men’s clothes emanate…But for this, my first foray into menswear, I wanted to contaminate the man’s world with the esthetics of my woman”. We are hearing from Norwegian designer Andreas Melbostad, making his first foray  into menswear for Diesel’s premium label to be shown in the post-industrial setting of the Stazione Leopolda.

 

Gas, 30 years old and doesn't feel it

The agenda for the celebrations of the brand’s 30th anniversary will be unveiled bit by bit during the course of the year. We do know that they will start in April with a digital event that will involve all the “internauts” and motorcycle enthusiasts around the world.. Actually, Gas is starting the festivities at Pitti Immagine Uomo – and they will be filled with novelties all for a young & cool generation.

Brunello Cucinelli tailoring version 2.0

 

A friendship that has been transformed into a lifestyle-lifetime project. With his distinctive style, Brunelli Cucinelli did not only take over D'Avenza, he wanted to use the historic firm’s background for a unique project. The entrepreneur from Umbria says, “I want to put young men back in touch with the formal suit…Because I believe that they want a dress code with that scent of tradition. Simply put, they need the right interpretation of their style features. And the key words can only be “lightness  and lightweight”.

100% ORIGINAL HUSKY

 

It’s called Original Husky and the name embodies the concept of telling the story of the English brand and its well-defined aesthetic that is rooted in British elegance. Husky has put its cards on the table (all aces) and at Pitti Immagine Uomo is presenting the best of its tradition, in a rereading of archive items with hi-tech contaminations.

 

Tommy Hilfiger and his rules of elegance

"Elegance certainly depends on the man. But the essentials must include a jacket with a perfect fit and a briefcase to hold all those tech or not items that will ruin the jacket’s shape if they are stuffed into the pockets. The colors? There are three pillars: navy, gray and black. Either alone or with a bright touch. You can’t make mistakes with these three colors ". Straight from the mouth of the king of preppy, Tommy Hilfiger who is remodeling the 500 square meter-plus store in Piazza Antinori that will have room for the Tailored collection too.

A double brithday for G-STAR

 

2014 will be a year of big celebrations and presents for G-Star. During this year, the advanced denim wear brand will be celebrating the 25th anniversary of its foundation and the 10th of its “marriage” with superstar Marc Newson. "It’s going to be a very full year”, explained Remco de Nijs, the brand’s international account manager. “We have created ad hoc capsule collections for both anniversaries and we are presenting the one dedicated to Marc in a premiere showing at our Pitti Immagine Uomo stand”.

La Petite Robe is ultra-feminine

 
"A super-feminine collection the way I like it, is neither sexy nor vulgar”. Chiari Boni sends this very simple message, and with her LA PETITE ROBE she wants to preach a new, understated, refined and charming concept of seduction. And she will be presenting at the Dogana, with the event entitled: "Magic, mythical and touched by dreams…Just the way I like it”.

A. Testoni between classic and avant-garde

 

Luxury hybrids chez A.Testoni, where sneakers mix neoprene and astrakhan, where moccasins are part velvet and part ostrich hide and where derby boots enter into unusual relationship to explore a new concept in elegance. 

PZero moves into the world of tires

 Hi-performance. “Mutated” materials from a traditional background – Pirelli tires – redraw the boundaries of PZero. Rubber covers sheepskin, neoprene finds a place in city coats, nylon creates hi-tech down jackets. And footwear is on the same wavelength, between city-style simplicity and hi-tech performance levels.

Caruso comes forward in a pop-up book

 

Not clothes, but a new way of telling their story: Caruso is here at Pitti Immagine Uomo with a pop-up book designed to tell visitors about the history of the Sorgana-based brand and about its future, including the creation of the Fabbrica Italiana by the firm’s number one man, Umberto Angeloni. 

Manuel-Ritz rethinks formal attire

 

Tartan dinner jackets with satin lapels and classic textures. Multicolor buttons. Coats that hide a fluo spirit under the lapel. Manuel-Ritz’s game is to rethink classic clothes with a young and funny touch. 

Mark/Giusti’s unusual accessories

 

Classic shapes, typical of a serious gentleman. And inside, an artist’s spirit. Mark/Giusti plays with the surprise effect, and balanced between art and craftsmanship chooses the mosaics in the basilicas of Saint Mark in Venice and Sant'Apollinare in Ravenna to color the linings of the bags, clutches and briefcases.

Aquarama and Hi-luxury

 

A hybrid of innovative materials and classical shapes. The Aquarama jackets have basic, traditional lines, but are reinterpreted in special materials: technical materials that mimic fur, featherweight paddings and windproof textures with the feel of paper.

 

Tonello christens the T jacket

 

32 fabrics for two styles plus special, innovative packaging. Tonello has christened the T jacket and plays with materials and shapes to create a jacket/shirt packed in a transparent tube – a project that is destined to become a best seller. 

Bark and classic hi-tech

 

A wool duffle coat treated to be water repellent, and then hybrid quilted or hi-tech fabric inserts. Bark is experimenting, and ever loyal to its young world, has added a touch of the future to this season’s collection. Streetwear for tomorrow. 

Roy Roger's raises the stakes with Ivy

 

Ivy is a deluxe line, as well as the first sneakers and down jacket-shirts. Roy Roger's does things on a grand scale, and has brought their entire world to the Fortezza da Basso: from denim wear with a couture feel, coats with artsy linings and high-tech outerwear. 

N°21 Making its menswear debut

 

“A man who represents the evolution of what we have achieved up to now with women’s clothing. I liked the idea that the two collections would be very close in terms of style and wearability. Both are created to be worn day in and day out”. These are the words of Alessandro Dell'Acqua, at the christening of the N°21 men’s collection that was presented among the desks in the Biblioteca Nazionale in Florence.

An Afro-Brit melting pot for Stella Jean

 

Stella Jean’s second collection for men is a game of opposites, mixing energy and classic fabrics from the world of tailoring. "For the cold season, I took my inspiration from an old-time English gentlemen’s club – from the sartorial elegance of the Made in UK dandies, and then subverted it with a contrary look”, is how the designer explains it. “I imagined that the southern countries with their warmth and color contaminated the most classic items in the traditional men’s wardrobes” ".

 

Emiliano Rinaldi and his Dandy Rebels

"The polo tournament on the snow held at St. Moritz every January really tickled my imagination combining two of my passions: horses and snow sports. A place where I never wear the usual tech-fabric suits, but always reinvent my classic wardrobe”. And there you have it, Emiliano Rinaldo has done it again with a wardrobe faithful to his aesthetic as he prepares for the new challenges of the world’s markets.

Casasola in between male and female

 

Man and woman, the eternal, aesthetic struggle between the sexes is the key player in the collection Barbara Casasola brought to the runway in Florence in a most fascinating happening. “I wanted to explore the world of men’s tailoring and then transpose it into my silhouette. But the collection also has something of the elegant rationality we see in Brazilian architecture. And Florence inspired me in the creation of my first clutch, a project that was born when I began thinking about this event.” And about the event itself : top model Jamie Bochert, starred in the video produced by photographer Nick Knight’s online platform Showstudio that was shown during the happening.