Vestirsi da Uomo 2013

PITTI IMMAGINE E THECORNER.COM

Present the third edition of Vestirsi da Uomo, curated by Angelo Flaccavento and for the fist time, you can buy all in real time on thecorner.com

Angelo Flaccavento
The curator of the third edition
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The collection
The stars will be clothes and collections from a group of very different and distinct Italian and international firms.
(read more)
Pitti People VDU 2013
Online a selection of the "ideal wardrobe" curated by Angelo Flaccavento and of the Pitti People
(read more)
The Making of
The video of the Sala della Scherma
(read more)

Angelo Flaccavento

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He describes himself as a joker in classic clothes and always has a pen in his breast pocket. He quotes as his influences, in no particular order: exoticism, bohemia, London in the sixties, the first punk, Ennio Flaiano, Alberto Arbasino, Irving Penn, Sarah Moon, Richard Avedon, Agota Kristof, mid-century modern, rococo, masks, brutalism, Leigh Bowery, decadence, radicalism, solitude, Japanism, maximalism, minimalism, absurdity, order, chaos, imperfections, errors. Convinced by Wallace Stevens, he sustains that reality is the product of imagination. For this reason when he walks he has his head in the clouds. He does not drive. 

 
Convinced that distance from the centre broadens the field of vision, Angelo Flaccavento is a fashion journalist based in Sicily. He currently works with Il Sole 24 Ore, in charge of the style pages in the weekly Moda 24, with D La Repubblica delle donne, L’Uomo Vogue, The Gentlewoman, Studio and GQ. He is also fashion features editor for the biannuals Hunter and Dapper Dan. 
 

The collection

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Does the ideal wardrobe exist or is this just utopia?
It does exist, I am convinced of this. It is just that there are infinite possible versions. 
When Pitti Immagine and thecorner.com invited me to curate this edition of Vestirsi da Uomo, asking me to create an iconic wardrobe, I saw that my resources had to be my tools as a thinker, dreamer and consumer. These three figures cannot be separated.
Thinking and dreaming, based on my personal experience as an obsessive consumer, I opted for an infinite selection of shapes and colours in order to put together pragmatic symphonies that were just slightly off key – errors and imperfections are all part of the game. The viewpoint is both playful and rational, because this is how I think men wear clothes today: mixing instinct, a desire to express themselves, fun and calculation. 
The installation you will see at Pitti is a work in progress: a deconstructed wardrobe. There is nothing final about it: the closer you come to the final choice, in fact, the more work there is to do. It is the imperfect beauty of trying to be individuals. At least, that is how I see it. And then, in the end, they are only clothes. 

Angelo  Flaccavento
 

The Brands

The twelve VdU brands express a fashion that is totally on-trend and very popular with the market, in a process that shuns excess or style breakages to embrace a modern reinterpretation that often features classic shapes - a vital idea of continuity.

Here the question:

How would define your taste, style and values?
In which way is the iconic piece chosen by Angelo Flaccavento for thecorner.com representative of your style? 
How would you suggest to use said iconic piece?

1st pat-rn

- My main values are respect for others and a professional approach to everything I do. My style changes, I love testing out the pieces I design and blending them with those by colleagues I admire. Every day I am a different person. My taste looks to the past because products then were made with the maximum quality possible; this is why I try to copy and, above all, evolve that philosophy in my jackets
- The Blazer chosen by Angelo perfectly represents my vision of the transformation and evolution of symbol garments that are staples in the modern male’s wardrobe: the very essence of this is the classic Blazer with gold buttons, but in a cavalry knit
- Mixed with pieces from the past and modern ones, like, for example, old military fatigue pants in reverse satin, a shirt in the new “multicount” knitted piqué and the must-have tie: regimental or plain

 

Borsalino

- Borsalino is an undisputed icon of all-Italian style and timeless elegance. Particularly attentive to the quality of its products, characterised by an effective mix of craftsmanship and innovation. Values: tradition and innovation, responsibility and attention to clients
- The felt hat is the real symbol of Borsalino, minimal and elegant, with its clean-cut essential yet also sophisticated, functional and irreplaceable lines, a true evergreen
- It can be adapted to go with any look: the elegant man, who cares about his appearance, searches for new trends and loves to stand out. It is worn by those "brave" enough to dare and create a unique personalised look whatever the occasion

Camo

- Our reference target is a man who manages to mix a classic suit with a modern article and give it an ironic twist. We believe in the identity of a product and our ambition is to see one of our articles today become a vintage item of tomorrow
- As the abbreviation of camouflage, Camo’s intention is to rework uniforms to suit the mood of the collection represented. Due to the workmanship of the garments, the flap pockets and all the other details, the look chosen by Angelo Flaccavento stands for a taste that recalls a military uniform
- One of the characteristics of CAMO garments is their versatile nature. They are not specific occasion wear. It is up to the wearer to choose what, when and where

 

G. Inglese

- Taste: simple, clean-cut.
Style: combining tradition and innovation.
Values: those of workmanship and tailoring and all those that enhance tradition and crafts from past times
- The icon garment is one of those picked out from your family archives. It has been reworked to suit today’s lines and fit
- It is definitely of classic extraction; with a bit of imagination and creativity we have turned it into something that can even be worn with jeans

Gitman Bros

- Regarding taste “De gustibus non est disputandum” goes my favorite Latin phrase; my style is Classic American with “I love Italy and visit Japan often” twist; values -- I like things that last: wine, art, music, clothes, well designed furniture and watches
- The Oxford button-down is an American take on an existing European sartorial design (in this case the British polo).   While the roll of the collar is perhaps the most important thing (our 3” is near perfect), its style is effortless, timeless, simple and neat
- Buttoned-up with a knit tie; or unbuttoned as a sport shirt.  With trousers, or jeans, it’s the most versatile shirt a man can own, which just happens to go perfectly with a natural shoulder jacket

Diemme

- I think our style is constantly evolving and changing and we are not blind to what goes on around us, but anything we make will be done from our perspective and I think that perspective will always shine through. Above all we are seeking to achieve flawless execution on what we do. We don't necessarily need to reinvent the wheel, although we do seek to have a fresh perspective, but we would like to offer our rendition where we try to achieve the best possible output - both in terms of design, material, build and performance. Considering that all our products are produced in Italy I think we learn to not only appreciate quality, when we purchase products in our private lives, but also an appreciation for provenance - it is not only the final product that matters, but also how the product came about. With Italian made footwear you are buying something that derives from centuries old traditions of leather and footwear manufacture, still predominantly consisting of small family-owned businesses. The average Italian shoe company only have 15-20 employees and work with small and specialized production volumes. To us this carries great importance and affect how we value the products we choose to surround ourselves with
- The New Tirol Wing is one of the styles in our collection that has the strongest link to Calzaturificio Diemme as a hiking, hunting and mountaineering boot supplier. Over the last 10 years, Diemme has moved increasingly towards the fashion market - first in the Japanese market and later in the European and North American market, but the early history of the brand is deeply rooted in hiking and hunting footwear. The boot features a classic hiking boot silhouette, with d-rings and hooks typical of performance footwear, and with a gusset to protect against water permeating the top of the shoe. However, the sole is lightweight and flexible giving the boot optimal comfort for city use. The materials used are a waterproof felt wool fabric from Italian supplier Lanificio Bigagli, with an overlay full grain leather from Italian tannery Conceria Emmedue
- There are currently a lot of great options out there for light grey melange wool jackets and blazers, and I see these boots as a fun way to pick up on that for a casual yet refined winter look

Grenson

- How would you suggest to use said iconic piece?Simplicity and function are central to my values. I like things that work well because they are simple, its the English way
- The boot chosen by Angelo is basically a classic British Chukka Boot reinvented. It takes a design that was introduced many years ago and has evolved over the years including a mid century version as the desert boot. We have paired it with a modern wedge sole for a new sporty look and extreme comfort. Form and Function
- I would wear this style in whatever way you like.  With a suit it softens the look, but with denim it makes it smarter than a sneaker. This shoe is versatile as its both classic and modern and is featured in a colour that has always been the Gentlemans colour in British shoemaking

Heschung

- 3 words : AUTHENTICITY, SIMPLICITY,  MODERN, .....
- Elegant without compromisung comfort
- With an Italian Sport coat and a Japanese denim jeans

Jane Carr

- Jane Carr Homme epitomises a love affair with quality, style and craftsmanship. Each season we create a new collection of fashion directed unique accessories for the discerning man. I want the Jane Carr Homme man to feel liberated, to express themselves, to enjoy life!!
- The Buoy Stole in silk cotton from our 'Riding Giants' S/S 13 Collection has become an instant classic, as seen on Jude Law in the New York Times magazine and judge Gary Barlow in the TV show X-Factor.  The perfect understated summer stole!!
- A casual sense of style, relaxed understated and worn over a white shirt and casual jacket or over a plain sweater and summer blazer

Hentsch man

- Hentsch Man's tastes  are simple, elegant and wearable like our brand.  We provide men with classic wardrobe basics.  Products have been designed to eliminate all fanciful details, ensuring that the clothes are fitted, flattering and subtle. Our collection is compact, offering a handful of carefully selected items, rather than bombarding the customer with too much choice. Essentially, a one-stop-shop for basic staples

- The Pea Coat selected is representative of Hentsch Man's attention to detail, and to perfect fit and form.  This is a classic piece and should be a staple piece of any man's wardrobe
- This is a versatile piece that can be dressed up with tailored trousers and a crisp shirt, or dressed down with chinos and a chunky knitted jumper
 

Jupe by Jackie

- My taste is classical elegance with an "arty" touch
- It is more than representative for the brand; Jupe is all about "flowers" and refined colour combinations
- The iconic piece is very well chosen by Mr. Flaccovento, I think, because of it's multiple way of use. Wearing with a classic navy jacket, it will lighten up, the chique look; but wearing it underneath a "lets say Nordic Sweater or Vest, or Red jacket or think of any "personal favorite piece , it will match for sure

 

Lardini

- A modern classic where details are strictly handmade
- It is a tailored article with reworked lines and fabrics
- In a casual manner, even over jeans and in the daytime

Liberty of London

- Confident, Cool and Stylish, the Liberty London man embraces the rich colour and print of Liberty's design heritage - Classic British style reinterpreted for today's stylish dresser
- An injection of colour and the layering of design, the 'Eastwood' tie and pocket square takes an archive Liberty print and places it firmly in today’s wardrobe - a timeless piece that embodies the essence of Liberty
- The Eastwood pocket square is a stylish addition to one of Angelo Flaccavento’s staple items, the unstructured blazer. For a more classically tailored look, the Eastwood tie will add polish to any slim fit suit

Pence

- Vintage revisitations are a constant in our collections. We like to take grandpa’s trousers, study them, take them apart and then reconstruct them (this gives our items a dandy air), just as much as we like vintage denim in all of its variations, from hand-mended super-destroyed to the dark, resin-coated versions of the 1950s. And we do it all using very contemporary cuts. The basic idea is to present a “wardrobe” collection that can dress our customer the right way for all occasions: the office, leisure or evening be it a formal dinner or a night of clubbing.
- One of our clients’ favorites, is the double-pleat trouser: it is extremely current and the fabrics we use give it that vintage touch we adore.
- We also present different interpretations of the style you selected. It is piece-dyed for a vintage look and is perfect for those who like comfortable, casual clothing. Bolt-dyed wool and sartorial construction are the right thing for men who prefer a more sophisticated look. And either style is perfect with a sweater or a jacket – it just depends on the occasion.
 

Pierre Louis Mascia

- Ours is a collection produced entirely in Italy and based on three essential values: quality of raw materials, attention and enthusiasm for a product with carefully designed details and the value of experimentation. A virtuous mix of good design, good production and good price. They are chic yet cool articles, small in size but big on impact. The value of the right value. The collection develops ten or so themes every season, carried right across all the different ranges. The critical filter is a technical and graphic mix between the South of France where Pierre Luis Mascia lives, Italy where he creates together with Achille Pinto and Sardinia where his family is from originally. His inspiration and continual point of reference is Japan, past and present. The method draws on Pierre Louis Mascia’s background as an illustrator, but the 3D effect gives an entirely different result: pictures to be worn that have a totally diverse sense of design and colour

- The piece chosen is a printed cagoule in ultra-light nylon, soft as silk and perfect whatever the season, interpreted in the various themes of the collection. It is like the evolution of my classic scarf and they are perfect together, in the same or contrasting colours
- It is a colourful go-anywhere item that can be worn for jogging or over a classic jacket; it helps to play down a dressy look and adds a fun touch to the shirt and tie

Want les essentiels de la vie

- We borrowed our design values from the mastermind Dieter Rams and his ingenious "10 Principles of Good Design".   His "less, but better" philosophy resonates through our entire design process as we endeavour to create products that are simple yet functional, modern yet timeless, long-lasting and sustainable. Not surprising our personal style follows a very congruent search for well made products that are beautifully, yet simply, designed with an central focus on quality.
- Our Trudeau briefcase represents for us the quintessential bag for every stylish man.  As the first bag we ever created, its modern classic design aesthetic, precise craftsmanship and definitive functionality will carry you through the seasons and house all the “essential” professional and personal products you use in modern everyday life.
- The Trudeau Briefcase is your ultimate travel companion. Made of French Calf and produced in Italy, this iconic bag is available in two sizes, so that either your 13, 15 or 17" laptop computer sits securely within a padded sleeve, with room to spare. Easily recognized by our Signature Gold & Silver zipper closure, the briefcase offers multiple custom pockets house chargers, battery packs, pens, cell phones and other essentials. Interior compartments feature zippered privacy pockets, while easy-access exterior pockets hold your smartphone, tablets and transit cards. 
 

YMC

- My style is quite traditional however I like to interpret the past to create something new. I like to think our clothing has integrity but also a dash of humour
- The chosen cardigan is understated but interesting, but like any minimal designs it is more about how the person chooses to wear it that create the individuality
- As an everyday winter favourite, dressed up or dressed down, a very versatile piece

You (Your own universe)

- Y.O.U. has an eclectic style that combines different elements and ideas in a cross-cultural mix. Our taste is decidedly informal and pivots around the values of real Made in Italy, practicality and the quality of materials and workmanship
- It is a product that combines simple shapes and experimentation into materials, like recycled denim for example, Japanese fabrics and vegetable tanned indigo dyed leathers. This mix finds its expression in a simple yet outstanding  model
- Both with “basics” found in any male’s wardrobe, like for example a Khahi coloured pair of chinos, teamed with a white cotton shirt and unlined jacket, or even with Bermuda shorts for a simple, refined look that is also comfortable
 

The catalogue of VDU 2013

All the apparel of the third edition of Dress Like a Man can be purchased online at thecorner.com on the page dedicated to Pitti: happy online shopping!

Pitti People VDU 2013

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A selection of Pitti People during the presentation of Vestirsi da Uomo 2013 on the 10 January.

Online two photogallery:
Vestirsi da Uomo 2013 Ph. Studio Labriola
Pitti People @ VDU 2013 Ph. Enrico Labriola

The Making of

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