A man in a knitted jacket, polo shirt and scarf, elegant without ostentation. The SS 19 collection is filled with colours, like yellow and orange through to red and various shades of blue, cut from the white in a perfectly navy style. A focus on a completely unstructured, informal jacket, made from a fabric printed with vertical stripes. Reflecting that style typical of Gruau, the inspiration for the entire collection, a veiled mark, symptom of a golden imperfection.
Pitti Immagine Uomo 94 - june 2018
Texts by Elena Moretti
A LIFE WITH STARS AND STRIPESBack to top
Nick Wooster X Paul&Shark
Paul&Shark presents Nick Wooster X Paul&Shark, a capsule collection that tells the story of the Italian brand as seen and interpreted by the eclectic American designer. Colours, prints and patchwork are the key elements. Shirt-stripe patchwork for parkas, shirts, bermudas and shorts. Exclusive prints on contrasting colour blocks for jackets and shirts. The striped cottons of the shirts are doubled and paired with nylon fabrics. The outerwear garments are reversible, in contrast to each other, like the matching fabrics.
A style that is technical and sartorial at the same time, tempered through the chic irony of the Summer Vacation, which inspires floral textures and nuances with fluorescent touches in the details. The story of 1950s holiday style is told through the use of vibrant colours and textures – with the exclusive Hyper Beach print inspired by the Polynesian sea flora – combined with micro checks, stripes and pinstripes. The unstructured jackets stand alongside formal suits. The slim-fit jacket contrasts with the softness of the trousers.
S’Y, the new label, celebrates the luxury leisurewear of today’s man. Track tops, jackets and technical garments paired with sneakers. Details come from the street world: side bands, writing, logos and graphics made using modern printing techniques. Seventy does not forget the new codes of easy formal, where the most classic rigour gives way to a never-before-seen casual sartorial style. Formal jackets combined with bermudas and sporty trousers, soft-fit shirts brought to life by a world of stripes.
Since 1948, the year the brand was founded, the trench coat has accompanied us through 70 years of history. A story linked to the rain and the original home and headquarters of the company, Lake Maggiore. The trench coat has been updated, now featuring advanced performance, made from opaque microfibre with a rain-resistant treatment, taken from the beachwear world. A micro-mesh lining ensures greater breathability and lightness. The message “Waiting for the Rainbow with my Herno” appears in matching shades on the yoke between the shoulders.
The over-dyed grey flannel suit features rose-coloured stripes. The safari jacket, no longer army-wear, is in flame-red casentino wool or pinstripe flannel. Some of the most striking pieces include the coat/overcoat with “fantasy” overchecks and the trench coat in houndstooth-patterned elasticized wool that drapes over the body. The suit in Saxony wool has a broken pinstripe design, while the trousers have a soft top, pulled in lower down. The robe coat in Jacquard damask, buttonless and belted at the waist, has a homewear feel.
Technology and design but also sporting luxury. The accessories of the new digital age are dedicated to freestyle travellers. The high-quality leathers, made using full-grain calfskin, are tanned using vegetable tannins in order to enhance the natural colour differences of the leather. Multi-coloured outer stripes and decorative graphic elements give a nod to the world of social media and urban trends and glamorous sports where sneakers are paired with formal suits and technical fabrics with tailoring workmanship.
Like a black and white photo of a prep school of the future: with the theme Prep/Futurism, iconic details of school uniforms and the Preppy style blend with those of a future made up of metallic textures and hi-tech passion. The flagship product is the ONESOUL sneakers, which also stand out thanks to the rubberised fabric strap with metal clasp. The sock (or knitted high-top) version features iconic ribs and college stripes.
GALLO R_evolution: Gallo puts its expertise regarding streetwear into sweatshirts, T-shirts, polo shirts, shorts and towelling socks inspired by sportswear and urban style. Every garment can be worn all day long, also harmoniously paired with the legendary Twin Rib socks from the Gallo Tailoring collection, with contrasting ribs in the most surprising colours.
Glen plaid, houndstooth, stripes, semi-plains and light flamed effects play with the structure of the fabric, making the collection innovative. Focus on a knitwear capsule collection of jackets and waistcoats in plain colours or with a regimental pattern. The yarns include top-quality blends of cotton, linen, wool and touches of iridescent silk, designed to combine luxury and performance in terms of comfort and drop. The range of jersey jackets is very extensive.
A recipe book for lovers of dressing well, self-produced series, limited editions, small independent ideas. White T-shirt, trench coat and military-inspired raincoat, unstructured jacket, shirt with micro sailor stripes, tie with small Anglo-Saxon-inspired designs.
U.S. Polo Assn.
The polo shirts, the brand’s iconic garments, feature full-colour cotton piqué, Oxford patterns, but above all macro or micro stripes, must-haves of the season. And there’s more... ample room for the knit versions, waistcoats, with regimental patterns and end-on-end in jersey fabric, undeniably bon ton, with floral patterns and over-dyed with vintage effects and collars made from shirt fabric and denim chambray.
OUTDOOR MEETS FASHION, FASHION MEETS OUTDOORBack to top
Design and function come together in this Italian sustainable stainless steel bottle project. Extra-light & easy-to-carry, colourful and above all eco-friendly, they help you stay hydrated while pursuing a more environmentally-conscious lifestyle. Alongside, a range of matching bags and accessories.
With its Lightweight Men’s Collection SS19, the Canadian brand takes its research to the extreme when it comes to blending aesthetics and function, studying the relationship between movement, the garment and the environment. The concepts of weight and limitation fall apart when faced with the combination of technical materials and cutting-edge constructions.
Barena + La Sportiva
Barena interprets the La Sportiva VK Mountain Runner according to its DNA. The iconic sock-like upper with integrated Ghost-Stream asymmetrical lacing system gives an elastic stride, constant traction and extra grip. Two new versions: total black and total white, with Barena orange and electric blue details.
Ample, unisex wearability for a collection inspired by Vietnam, but made contemporary by technical fabrics and solutions like zips or pleats. In addition, in collaboration with Contemporary Locus, a capsule collection of heat-sensitive overalls inspired by workwear, where the colour varies according to changes in temperature.
Faithful companions for every adventure, for over 121 years, Filson garments have offered protection from wind, snow and rain. The SS19 collection sees the world of fishing take centre stage, with an expanded range of extra-light outerwear garments and diving-proof “Dry Bags”.
The collection was created to provide all fans of outdoor life the highest performance in terms of comfort and protection from the elements. A look made in Japan purged of all frills, where the high performance of high-tech fabrics combines with innovative production techniques.
“Urban Mobility Solutions For The New Generation”: this is what the lifestyle accessories brand founded in Osaka in 1995 has to offer. Three collection ranges: Connect for young explorers, Black Label for urban globetrotters, Made in Japan for lovers of luxury.
An ancient natural element such as Organic Hemp Oil gives life to a high-performance range of cosmetics made in Italy. Innovative products dedicated to wellbeing for the skin, hair and beard, but also items for “spa experiences” and for the home.
HOKA ONE ONE SKY
Running footwear company launched by two ultra-runners, HOKA ONE ONE presents an entire line dedicated to hiking: the SKY Series, with the Kaha, Arkali and Toa models. Hiking shoes that combine the lightweight nature and agility of running shoes with the protection needed to take on the most extreme mountain adventures.
Founded in 2015, Marané is a luxury beachwear brand that started life in Uruguay with a passion for the Atlantic. The natural beauty of its country of origin with its heritage is reflected in the first Manantiales collection, dedicated to the fishing village of the same name. All for swimwear with sartorial constructions.
Functional workwear for the 21st century globetrotter. From Japan, Teatora has designed a collection of high-tech garments intended to securely house all the most advanced devices, as well as ensuring flexibility, resistance to cold and absolute comfort for business occasions or travel. The Packable Line is perfect for guaranteeing a crease-free suitcase.
Roa is aimed at mountain lovers in search of beauty. Hiking and biking footwear that blends technical and aesthetic performance, preserving the craftsmanship of the manufacturing process. The classic mountain boot is made using cutting-edge materials without neglecting a fashion-conscious flavour.
Bringing the SEA together with the freedom of EASE. An idea from Franco and Giacomo Loro Piana, a menswear brand for those unable to separate themselves from their passions. For those who want to feel as comfortable in the middle of nature as they do in the city and know that an adventure begins with just a few clothes in a bag. High-performance garments, for a continuum from urban to sportswear, from metropolitan life to sports synonymous with freedom, such as sailing and skiing.
SERAC® is rooted in technical sportswear and in the Norwegian outdoor tradition. The amplified qualities of comfort and freedom of movement, characteristic of the most functional outdoor clothing, are naturally combined with a sharp, urban style, with a tailored fit and ergonomic cuts.
SCANDINAVIAN SOULBack to top
HALO is a functional brand, part of the Danish sports brand NEWLINE, designed by Malkit Singh and Rasmus Storm. A man launches himself with a parachute and, suspended between sky and earth, wonders about why his suit is wet while his parachute remains dry. Also thanks to the founder’s training with the Danish special forces, the parachute becomes an inspiration for a line of functional, comfortable products with attention to detail.
Tailoring, Function and High-Tech: the brand’s DNA is based on the fusion of these three elements. Tailoring techniques and heritage meet Japanese sensitivity in a line of outerwear that is technologically-innovative, with a special focus on the rainwear segment.
Mucker is the first Activeswimwear brand. The brand is based on a global culture, with no borders, and is aimed at an open, international public from a unisex perspective. A movement that wants to encourage people to look up from their smartphones. The aim is to free creativity, convictions and passions and to do something concrete for the world.
The cool Scandinavian soul is combined with European savoir-faire. This mix leads to the creation of collections for the dynamically-rich lifestyle of global citizens. A wardrobe for him and her that is composite and comfortable, the perfect balance of new classic and super-contemporary inflections.
A creative studio that moves between art, design and functionality. Rooted in the Scandinavian landscape and Nordic aesthetics, its philosophy stems from an active participation in contemporary culture accompanied by a love for innovation and research. Each product exhibits an essential nature, from fabrics to function.
The Last Conspiracy
With a proudly postmodern spirit and an equally proud heritage of Nordic roots, The Last Conspiracy creates experimental footwear collections that are practical and functional. Unique, hand-crafted pieces that combine Norwegian expertise, social awareness and sophisticated details.
Tonsure stems from an idea from Malte Flagstad, former designer at Maison Martin Margiela who trained at Central Saint Martins in London. Founded in Scandinavia in 2013, Tonsure designs its menswear with a focus on exclusive expression. In June 2016, the brand won the European final of the International Woolmark Prize.
Uniforms for the Dedicated
Founded by a creative collective in 2008, Uniforms for the Dedicated quickly turned into a contemporary menswear brand. Blending streetwear with elegance, the collections focus on coats, jackets, trousers and sweaters, mixing influences taken from tailoring, sport and more functional styles. The garments are mainly made using carefully-selected organic fibres.
Founded in 1993, Filippa K immediately established itself as a leading brand in defining Scandinavian fashion. Taking its inspiration from the simplicity of Nordic design, its total look collections for men and women combine tailored jackets and trousers, clean-cut garments and a top-quality knitwear line. A range not based on seasons but designed to last over time.
From Denmark, a collection of lifestyle bags whose mantra is versatility combined with high-quality materials. Alongside the business and small leather goods section, research focuses on a range of perfectly-proportioned backpacks.
Founded in Copenhagen in 2010 by Aase Helena Hansen and Per Chrois, Hansen was set up as a brand steeped in Nordic values, aesthetics and design. A timeless style characterised by naturalness guides collections that combine a workwear mould and lessons from tailoring, all suffused with measured nostalgia.
“Jeans for living hard, fast and strong”. With this claim, Neuw, a Swedish label, maintains a passion for denim to be experienced every day with enthusiasm, in a jeans collection designed for 21st century men.
A project that focuses on the men’s shoe, more precisely on the boot. Twelve styles in different colours and materials create a collection that mixes top-level Italian craftsmanship know-how with a passion for Scandinavian design.
With a name as simple as the concept it expresses, Rains offers up its original version of the classic raincoat. In attempting to bridge geographical and lifestyle divides, the Danish company has a mission: don’t let the rain stop you when you want to go out to discover the world. All accompanied by a range of matching backpacks.
We would like to thank the exhibiting companies for their kind contribution to this press service.