A love story of fine quality manufacture, craftsmanship in the tailoring, refinement and unmistakeable taste in the choice of fabrics. The total look is distinguished by the expertise in the prints and colour combinations, defining the creative interplay in the combination of garments and accessories.
Pitti Uomo 93 - january 2018
Texts by Elena Moretti
GENTLEMAN’S ATTIREBack to top
A tradition of excellence and expertise passed down over five generations. Since 1892, Casa Fagliano boots have been worn by the greatest polo players in the world. Entirely handcrafted, the footwear collections of this Argentinian brand combine fine Italian manufacturing quality with British understatement, to create pieces that are unique of their kind.
An almost pictorial art of colour combines with the finest and most natural materials in the stoles and scarves from Lanificio Faliero Sarti, a historic company that has specialized, right from the beginning, in the manufacture of fabrics for haute couture and pret-a-porter.
A Felisi bag is designed and manufactured to last through time and to be a faithful companion for travel or work. To make its products, Felisi uses fine animal skins combined with canvas or nylon, in a wide variety of colours and combinations. The logo featured on all the accessories – a shield with a tree covered with golden apples - is the family crest of this aristocratic Ferrara family.
Finamore 1925 Napoli
It was in 1925 that Carolina decided to set up her first shirt workshop in the old city centre of Naples. But it was with the third generation in the 1990s, that the company experienced a turning point. The dedication of Simone, Paolo, Andrea and Annamaria has created a label that stands out for the fine taste and rich detail of its creations. Today the shirts have been joined by total look collections and Finamore 1925 Napoli has become an international designer label sold in all the best stores around the world.
The over-dyed grey flannel suit features rose-coloured stripes. The safari jacket, no longer army-wear, is in flame-red casentino wool or pinstripe flannel. Some of the most striking pieces include the coat/overcoat with “fantasy” overchecks and the trench coat in houndstooth-patterned elasticized wool that drapes over the body. The suit in Saxony wool has a broken pinstripe design, while the trousers have a soft top, pulled in lower down. The robe coat in Jacquard damask, buttonless and belted at the waist, has a homewear feel.
The key pieces are the socks and the Principe di Gallo waistcoat, made with the finest merino wool: accessories that have the power to ennoble every look in the male wardrobe. The timeless pattern of a classic tailoring fabric – with a weave that alternates checks of different sizes – is reinterpreted by Gallo in sophisticated shades. So rust is matched with pyrite grey, blue with taupe and grey mélange with geranium.
Hanro of Switzerland
The microfibre made by Hanro, a company that manufactures and researches innovative fabric solutions to guarantee maximum comfort, is so soft and smooth that it gives the impression you’re not wearing anything. Hence the highly appropriate definition "invisible underwear", to which you might add "that can’t be felt". The perfect match to wear with slim fit clothes, Micro Touch offers a new range of colours every season.
Herno Laminar, the sartorial engineering project in collaboration with Gore® presents HERNO LAMINAR IMPACT, the Uber waterproof, windproof and breathable padded jacket. A bomber with a hood, and a slim, ergonomic fit. The innovation is in the re-interpretation of the Gore® C-Knit technology. The outer fabric is an ultra-light 13 denier GORE-TEX® with RIP STOP technology, which, thanks to the special internal knit, allows the use of heat-bonding instead of the traditional stitching. Padded with goose down using the injection technique, it features internal waterproof heat-welded seams.
Relaxed silhouettes and nomad-style looks, alongside sportswear elements with a hand-crafted yet technical flavour, outline a new concept of comfort. The new organic trend, Biophilia, leads the way. Key garments are the destructured jackets in “molten” effect wool, wool overchecks, fused micro-textures, bouclé pinstripes, blousons in wool or coarse-look cotton matched with soft trousers in jersey, wool or bouclé wool flannel. The focus is on limited edition textures: Winter Garden, all-over flowers in cool shades, warmed with a touch of red.
Massimo Alba, a brand distinguished by its sartorial finishing and soft lines and fabrics, combined with a search for natural pigments, presents novelties from their menswear collection. The collection includes the brand’s famous pocket squares, designed as stories, messages, feelings, ideas, doodles, meditations, memory aids, hand-written slips, absent-minded notes, transcendental illuminations, brainwaves, symbols, words from beautiful songs, affirmations, declarations, solemn denials and sublime acquiescences.
Peninsula swim&wear was born from the sea. The new collection conveys all the emotions of the winter sea, taking up its darker but enveloping tones, in coats and trousers that recall the garments worn by sailors to protect themselves against the force of the waves and winds
Pringle of Scotland
An incredibly rich archive that testifies to over two centuries of history and the honour of being the oldest luxury company in the world. Pringle of Scotland is famous for its cashmere garments, the Argyle sweaters made iconic by the Duke of Windsor, the twinsets and cardigans beloved of, and worn by, the royal family and Hollywood stars. But it’s also a pioneering company in the field of British knitwear in the continuous experimentation it applies to innovative techniques and ever fresh colour combinations.
PT Pantaloni Torino
The inside of a belt bears the peremptory declaration: Ceci n’est pas un pantalon (This is not a pair of trousers).
Luca Roda has liberated the tie from the obligatory formality of masculine elegance, introducing unique accessories and transforming them into a charming refinement that seizes the detail and brings it to the fore. The Roda man is Italian in spirit with a nod to the taste of the English gentleman. He lets his style speak for itself through the nonchalance of a knotted, printed silk foulard, the bold colours of a pocket square, or a hand-embroidered cashmere scarf.
ATHLIFESTYLEBack to top
Rebellious and fashion forward are the words that best define the athleisure collection by 42.54 the brand founded Olivia Borleé & Élodie Ouédraogo, gold medal winning Olympic athletes and friends. Their made-in-Belgium wardrobe is designed for all-day wear.
Clean and minimal lines are the identifying features a men’s and women’s collection – the second one of the brand - of this 19-item, where technically innovative materials make for comfort and a positive attitude. A true story of style and performance.
Fashion meets Technology: this is the mantra that Christopher Bevans, the Portland (Oregon) based who has worked with big names like Nike, chanted when he founded his brand and projected it into a world of ultra-contemporary dynamism.
The discipline of the Brazilian Jiu Jitsu, its values and its iconography are its background. This Italian brand was started up with an ambitious goal: to revolutionize the world of combat sport clothing, and an equally ambitious slogan "Innovative Apparel for Functional Training".
Isaora was founded in New York City in 2008 to respond to the myriad needs of dynamic city life around the world. Style and performance join hands in the brand’s "performance clothing for urban life".
The collection was created to provide all fans of outdoor life the highest performance in terms of comfort and protection from the elements. A look made in Japan purged of all frills, where the high performance of high-tech fabrics combines with innovative production techniques.
La funzionalità dell’abbigliamento tecnico da pesca incontra il fashion design: è l’obiettivo del brand giapponese che raccoglie il know-how della nota azienda DAIWA. L’outdoor con le sue performance elevate in termini di resistenza agli agenti atmosferici e comfort non interferisce con lo stile.
From Seoul, a brand of techno-accessories for the man of the future. New generation backpacks, bags, totes or belt bags in coated canvas: the preferred colour is grey, emblem of the metropolis. Keywords: practicality, simplicity, style.
Easy Wear, the best performing line in their collection, takes on an even more future-oriented approach with Easy Wear ADVANCE, intended for leisure time. Featuring jersey in decidedly technical sweatshirts and trousers with basic cuts. Nylon is present in all its power, thanks to breathable membranes and pairings with a reinforced scuba texture, perfect for difficult climatic conditions. The finishing focuses on its waterproofing quality, in the parka and the sleeveless gilet, or matched with mesh and elastane for the hyper-light, flexible mesh sneakers.
Save the Duck
Save the Duck is continuing its tradition of luxury capsule collections with the launch of its F/W 2018-19 capsule collection at Pitti Uomo, in a specially designated area in the Fortezza: Dyne for Save The Duck, with New York fashion designer Christopher Bevans, the founder of Dyne and a genuine talent on the American streetwear scene. Gender-neutral leisure garments, with high-performance, technological and sustainable fabrics.
Functional workwear for the 21st century globetrotter. From Japan, Teatora has designed a collection of high-tech garments intended to securely house all the most advanced devices, as well as ensuring flexibility, resistance to cold and absolute comfort for business occasions or travel. The Packable Line is perfect for guaranteeing a crease-free suitcase.
Pioniere del Formal Activewear, un nuovo segmento nel menswear che utilizza tessuti tecnici ad alto effetto performante - easy care, wrinkle-free e comfort - ma tagliati in modo sartoriale. La nuova collezione ha una filosofia 24/7: dal comodo loungewear al business attire, fino al formalwear; il tutto ispirato al paesaggio metropolitano.
Pantofola D'Oro 1886
La scarpa Termica è un connubio tra presente e passato: ispirata all'equipaggiamento dei sommergibilisti degli anni 40, è in neoprene accoppiato con pelle di vitello e impunture a zigzag.
Mountains, rivers, woods: the countryside surrounding the city of Sanjo in Japan is the inspiration behind the Snow Peak brand, created for living life in the natural world and engaging in outdoor activities without worrying about the cold or bad weather. It was initially designed as a special range of camping and trekking equipment, but its outdoor garments, combining innovative techno-materials with contemporary styles, are perfect for the city as well as the mountains.
The focus is on the brand’s second collaboration with Nigel Cabourn. For next FW, the outerwear and mountain style takes its inspiration from the first Americans to climb Mount Everest. Archive content is combined with a remarkable technical expertise in making garments for skiing and mountainwear, to create a 9-piece capsule collection.
The brand is presenting a new image. The world of sport is increasingly becoming a part of every day life and SUN68 gives it an athleisure slant with a mix of ideas ranging from formal to casual and to streetwear, with new looks and the use of vintage colouring, sweatshirts matched with different fabrics such as nylon, or embellished with patch details, or knitwear with embroidered bands and trims.
The sneakers with an oriental feel, and the combat boots with lug soles, have been given new shapes that are even more striking and futuristic. The brand’s DNA is also evolving in the materials, with the introduction of a process that mixes fabric and leather, creating a product with an all-Italian level of quality.
A democratic, super-personalized concept of fashion. That’s the fundamental idea behind the new collection ironically titled “Sorry select shops”, which celebrates our liberation from the schedules imposed by the fashion calendars. A strongly athletic-minded approach.
Derived from the concepts Polite + Piquant, this new Japanese brand has made ancient tradition, and the habit of resistance and rebellion, all its own. Craftsmanship and Japanese fabrics come together in a collection of ready-to-wear fashion that takes its inspiration from the streets of Tokyo and presents an innovative mix of fashion and function.
HAVE I EVER TOLD YOU ABOUT THE NORTH WIND?Back to top
Mannisto is the menswear label created by designer Julia Männistö. Born in Colombia and raised in Finland, Männistö started her label in 2015 after graduating from Central Saint Martins. Mannisto is one of Finland's most internationally acclaimed new labels: Julia Männistö won International Fashion Showcase in 2015 and Shenzhen Design Award for Young Talents in 2016. She was a finalist in the LVMH Prize in 2016. Julia Männistö’s design trademarks include visually powerful silk screen printing and innovative surface designs.
Heikki Salonen comes to Pitti Uomo to launch his namesake menswear line called Vyner Articles. A graduate of London’s Royal College of Art, Salonen is one of Finland’s most successful designers in recent years. Previously working at Erdem and as a creative director at Diesel women’s wear. In 2008 Salonen launched his eponymous brand that quickly rose to a cult reputation. In 2013 Salonen started as head designer in a Parisian avant-garde brand owned by the OTB group. Vyner Articles – ArtWorkWear
Nomen Nescio is a brand founded in 2012 by Niina and Timo Leskelä. It is known for its extreme simplicity and brutally Nordic aesthetics. The Helsinki-based brand features only black pieces but the monotonic color palette succeeds in highlighting the timeless designs. The collections are gender-neutral and feature few new styles every season added to the permanent collection. Finnish minimalism at its most fashionable.
Saint Vacant founder Janne Lax is an experienced cobbler who studied the craft in England. He founded Saint Vacant after returning to Helsinki in 2005 but the real innovation came last year. In 2016 Lax edited his Saint Vacant collection down to five essential styles of shoes. The big idea behind the change is that every man’s life can fit into five soles. Combining his quality design work with the classic footwear styles and a philosophy of sustainability, Saint Vacant has its feet firmly on the ground.
Designer Teemu Muurimäki is one of Finland’s most celebrated talents in women’s fashion. After years spent in Milan designing for the likes of Dolce & Gabbana, Bottega Veneta and Giorgio Armani, Muurimäki returned to Finland. Formal Friday is his first menswear line. Formal Friday combines the Nordic casual styles with Muurimäki’s talent and his vast knowledge of materials. The result is urban suiting and casual clothes for the modern man with a twist of innovative e-commerce strategy.
Ikla Wright x Turo
The first of two Finnish collaborations combines the talent of Ikla Wright with the tradition of Turo. After graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2007. In 2016 he launched his own menswear line IKLA. Turo is a classic Finnish menswear house that has provided suits for Finnish presidents and men from all walks of life since 1938. Having gone a massive rebranding in 2016, Turo is ready for an international introduction.
Maria Korkeila x R-Collection
Maria Korkeila is one of the brightest stars of the new wave of Finnish fashion and has designing experience from the likes of Rick Owens and Saint Laurent. In 2017 the Aalto University graduate was a finalist at the Hyères Fashion Festival and was awarded an honorable mention (the Schiaparelli prize). She will be collaborating with R-Collection, a legend of Finnish design and casual wear. Founded in 1978 R-Collection has reinvented its brand but the new head designer Lilli Norio still draws her inspiration from the Finnish nature and the brands laid-back heritage that whispers: less is more.
Andersen - Andersen
Andersen-Andersen reinterprets Denmark’s long maritime tradition. The classic sailor’s jersey plays a leading role in a tour of the world: made from wool from certified companies in Uruguay and Patagonia – or merino wool from Portugal – it is woven in the north of Italy and lovingly dyed in accordance with European standards. It is accompanied by a sailor-inspired range: pea coats, navy jackets and skipper jackets.
6 styles and 19 colours in an ethical collection made from 100% organic cotton and entirely made in Portugal. The requirement for a perfect fit is combined with the use of the most beneficial materials for the skin – pre-washed cotton – that doesn’t shrink, with a sophisticated range of colours. There’s a charitable component too, with 5% of the proceeds donated to charity.
The cool Scandinavian spirit mixes with South-European expertise to develop a sophisticated and sometimes irreverent focus. This mix leads to collections created for the dynamic lifestyles of citizens of the world. A versatile and comfortable wardrobe for men and women, perfectly balanced between new classic and hyper-contemporary elements.
The Last Conspiracy
With a proudly post-modern spirit and an equally proud heritage of Nordic roots, The Last Conspiracy develops experimental, essential and functional footwear collections. Unique, hand-crafted pieces that interweave Norwegian expertise, social reflection and sophisticated details such as asymmetrical zips, Vibram soles, vintage elements and animal skins in an essential palette of colours.
“We are Made for Everywhere” is the claim of this Swedish watch and sunglasses brand inspired by the world of skateboarding, music and art. The high quality of the products is matched by the brand’s strong social commitment against racism, homophobia and violence against women. Each season the proceeds of part of the collection are donated to non-profit or charity organisations, such as Skateistan, an organization that uses skateboarding as an educational tool for children in Afghanistan, Cambodia and South Africa.
For the launch of the FW18 Eco Essentials collection, Tretorn photographer Olle Nordell took part in the Antarctic 2020 expedition with the new insulating Tretorn Eco Essentials ARCH jacket and the padded winter Ghost Net Jacket. The aim was to increase awareness of climate change. The ARCH jacket is made in the Tretorns Eco Essentials fabric OCEAN SHELL ©, a new fabric with two layers of recycled polyester with membranes made from recycled waste from the ocean, made to be recycled again.
Established in 1916, Karhu is the legendary running brand, with an authentic heritage and a deep connection with the world of outdoors. The development of products dedicated to these two worlds (running and the outdoors) follows the Finnish principles of simplicity and purity of design. The Karhu running shoes have been worn by some of the greatest Finnish runners, who gave rise to the term ‘the Flying Finns’.
Tailoring, Function and High-tech: the DNA of this Norwegian Rain brand derives from the combination of these three elements. Technical expertise and sartorial heritage meet Japanese sensitivity in a line of technologically innovative outerwear garments with a special focus on the rainwear sector: featuring a collection of raincoats with well-defined silhouettes and playful volumetric shapes, made with remarkable techno-fabrics.