Pitti Uomo 92 - June 2017
Texts by Elena Moretti
COLONIAL CHIC SOUL. THE URBAN GENTLEMAN WITH A PASSION FOR LINEN.Back to top
Trips to Japan, a passion for cotton with a bold personality, designs of military inspiration, the discovery of an ancient culture full of details that combine aesthetics and functionality. The items designed by Alessandro Squarzi for the Bagutta collection are fruit of this story; a line of shirts where each detail is a personal feature. A collection of 11 models for every occasion in the life of the contemporary man, even including an urban makeover of the jungle jacket.
Bally, a Swiss brand of accessories and clothing presents its retro sneaker project for the first time, introducing new editions of four iconic models that have made the brand’s history. In particular, the brand will again be launching the Super Smash canvas tennis series from the 60s, brought up to date with a vulcanized sole and decorated with hi and low top or leather versions.
New cotton materials, such as the natural fibres of linen and canvas and new prints, patchworks and camouflage mixed with military satins, cotton/nylon, malfilé cotton and treated ripstops, in shades of green and khaki, with off-white, yellow and orange hints. Parkas, field jackets, flight jackets; ultra-light and garment dyed leather, matched with a series of vintage items in earthy colours: khaki, burnt shades and khaki green.
This brand of luxury bags and accessories in vegetable-dyed leather is based in Paris and focuses on a concept of minimal elegance, where the beauty of each object derives from its unique production method and durable form. The new decorations are an adaptation of the superficial leather engraving process practised by certain tribes during the passage to adulthood.
Inspired by La Dolce Vita of Federico Fellini, the SS18 collection evokes the glossy atmosphere of the 1960s. The focus is on decorative elements, reinterpreting the classic straw forms from Ecuador. Micro textures made in Italy come in linen and cotton, creating a chromatic camouflage that highlights the three-dimensional nature of the styles, while the contrasting stitching enhances the structure of the hat.
Cartujano, a Spanish horse bred by the Carthusian monks in Jerez, Andalusia, during the 16th Century is the source of this brand’s inspiration and its name. 137 years after Antonio Fluxà founded a laboratory for the production of high quality footwear in Majorca (Spain), the fourth generation of the family is bringing the brand back. The “Heritage” collection reunites the classic designs of the countryside and horses. Its pièce de résistance is the Cartujano boot, made in Mallorca with the Goodyear welt method.
“Los caballeros de La Habana” inspires the SS 2018 collection, captured in the artwork and in the collages created by designer. Making jackets – well-proportioned at the chest, soft-shouldered, never too close-fitting and with visible revers – and suits that represent a journey through light, cool, compact or structured yarns, with a military shape. The same journey also takes them through linen and cotton mixes, weightless cashmere, Japanese shirt fabrics and thousands of “solaro” variations, also featured on the knitwear items and perfect when worn alone or under an oversize blazer.
The SS18 collection of the brand made in Mantua is paying tribute to colour – or rather to non-colour, the passe-partout for this coming summer season. Indeed, white is combined with blue or red to create contrasts, or with natural shades for a more ton-sur-ton look, but can also be pure, livened up by the movement of yarns in exclusive textures. Military-inspired khakis, blues and light blues, natural tones with hints of ruby and coral red.
Modern explorers can choose from military-style tropical items and styles in a range of cargo pants and duster coats with resin treatment designed to provide a “crunchy”, sensory-stimulating look to the fabric. The trend reaches its peak in its exclusive ultra-tropical print. Khaki green is the absolute star of the show in the colour palette of the range; worn alone or combined with shades such as medium grey, light grey and the irreplaceable new black: blue.
PT Pantaloni Torino
New route, destination India. The SS18 collection takes us into territories contaminated by Eastern colours and tastes, in a colonial world through the pathways of different spices, by presenting the themes of the “Colonial party” and the “Spice Route”. An English elegance with pastel colours, wider textures and bigger patterns; these are the distinctive elements of the colonial era that inspire the designs of the “Colonial Party”. The focus is on styles with maxi patterns, in a mix of wool and linen, in light colours.
African textures with wax prints. And indeed it is the prints that become the details of the Superior line, the vintage part of the brand that is its heritage. Leather labels on the jeans, or mini bandanas in the rear pocket of the trousers; the prints on the shirts and costumes are the elements that bring out that second hand effect throughout the whole collection. Jeans presented with an embroidery kit: needle, thread and three pieces of fabric – 2 African and 1 chambray print – for personalising your own jeans.
Colours are the alchemical base of the collections, with fabrics providing tactile emotions in tailored suits and minimal jackets. Natural cottons, silks and linens contaminated by wool. The wide knit of the tricot look jersey with a regimental pattern. With a focus on the unmistakeable Tagliatore check sported by the ultra-light, de-structured and unlined jackets. Pure innovation, in a line of tailored shirts, knitwear and trousers.
HIGH-END ATHLEISURE GARMENTS, HALFWAY BETWEEN SPORTSWEAR AND FINE TAILORING.Back to top
Belstaff presents its new iconic collection, designed for movement: “Origins”, with a spotlight on evolution trained by innovating the brand, based on a type of technology geared to favour movement, performance and protection for a modern lifestyle.
The collection is inspired by metamorphosis. The polo shirt in exquisitely fine cotton with a pixel pattern is overprinted with optical squares, which give it a completely new look. The Milan stitch jacket, inspired by jeans, fabric in sand-coloured soft cotton, is covered in a deluge of colour, spray-painted to become a more khaki green shade with a canvas collar.
An independent collective project created by Mauro Grifoni, founder and creative director. Covert is the fruit of the individual and dynamic experiences of a team of young designers, careful observers of modern artistic and cultural events. A dynamic wardrobe with a relaxed feel composed of interchangeable items, lightweight structures and functional details.
Based on the solid premise that shape must follow function, the collection was created to provide fans of the great outdoors with the very best performances in terms of protection from the weather and comfort. A look made in Japan purged of all frills, where the high performance of high-tech textures combines with innovative production techniques.
One of the brands brought to Pitti Uomo by the Tokyo Fashion Award, Doublet – brand founded in 2012 and already distributed by Dover Street Market – stands out for its unique approach to streetwear, combining a range of different elements, such as 80s fashion, vintage, skater uniforms and gym couture, in a jigsaw of inflections.
The acronym of Elegance Makes You Unique and Natural; this young Swiss brand offers a concept of contemporary elegance that looks to Running Couture for inspiration. Daytime athlete uniforms made up of items designed to foster well-being and comfort, full of benefits and made of thermo-regulated fabrics with a finish sporting extremely sophisticated details.
From Seoul, a brand of techno-accessories for the man of the future. New generation backpacks, sacks, tote bags or bum bags in coated canvas: the main colour is grey, symbol of the metropolis. And the pass words are functionality, simplicity, style.
The SS18 of the British athleisure brand founded in 1906is a journey through its noble history (in 1980 it supplied the uniforms for Prince Charles’s polo team). Traditional shapes light up with chromatic flashes and are renewed by technical elements. From the rugby club membership t-shirts to the tracksuits, everything is reinterpreted through the filter of new textures and new details.
Herno Laminar Bike is launched by Herno Laminar, the brand’s technological sartorial engineering project; a special 6-item capsule collection for men, dedicated to the biking world – three jackets, a coat, a raincoat and a waistcoat. The items embody the concept of athleisure: created to ensure comfort during bike rides, but also suitable for every moment of the day. All made with ultrasonic seams, thermo-taping and GORE® fabrics, making them waterproof, breathable and windproof over time.
A brand created in Japan based on the concepts designed by Polite + Piquant, it absorbs and personalises ancient tradition and a propensity for resistance and rebellion. Craftsmanship and Japanese fabrics meet in a collection of ready-to-wear items inspired by the streets of Tokyo and presenting an innovative mix of fashion and function.
PS by Paul Smith
Bright colours, attention to detail and a hint of irony light up the contemporary line created based on the passion for sportswear, and in particular for the biking world of the British designer. The spotlight is on an original fusion of luxury design and performance effects, techno-fabrics and ergonomic styles.
Swedish functionality meets French style in a new concept of body wear: modern, smart, minimalist. Basic items that embrace athletic heritage to provide a wardrobe of items to wear at home, in the gym or during your free time. The SS18 collection is inspired by the fluorescent passion for the 80s, combined with the designer’s claim: Discipline Is Not a Dirty Word.
Mountains, rivers, woods: the landscape surrounding the city of Sanjō, in Japan provided the inspiration for this project, with garments created for experiencing nature to be worn when taking part in outdoor activities without fearing the cold or adverse weather conditions. It began as a special range of camping and trekking equipment, and its outdoor items combine stylish techno-materials and contemporary designs. Perfect both for the city and for the mountain.
The collection focuses on the concept of performance. Inspired by the strong but elegant natural wonders of the North-African landscape; each item is entirely made using avant-garde technical fabrics. From the blazer to the Korean-collar shirt, each product is comfortable, crease-resistant and machine washable, combining a sophisticated look with the functionality of technical performances.
NEW GENERATIONS OF CRAFTSMEN AND WOMEN GROW UP. IN A MIX OF HERITAGE AND CONTEMPORARY FLAIR.Back to top
@MAKE, THE NEW MAKERS
A contemporary and functional allure is sported by this collection of men’s bags and accessories made in Paris by expert French artisans using the finest materials and exclusive leathers. From briefcase to messenger bag, from tote to weekender: a range of classic models with an unmistakeable and typically French style.
Since 1832 and for more than 6 generation, the French brand led by Jean-François Bardinon continues its fine manufacturing tradition, producing luxurious leather items ranging from bags to footwear, and from ready to wear to made-to-measure.
From Monaco, Coast Society expresses a sartorial vision of men’s beachwear. Inspired by the coloured, playful atmospheres of the Riviera, with polo shirts and t-shirts available in cool pastel colours and swim shorts with geometric prints. A casual, chic image, where freedom and style are a synonym for savoir-faire.
Comme les Loups
The bow tie as a way of life, for him and for her, presented in a selection of carefully designed colour combinations sporting sophisticated shades, but also with no pressure to conform to tradition. This is the identikit of a product designed and produced in a craft workshop founded in Belgium in 2013. The new collection is cool and tactile, focusing on light blue, grey and olive green, alongside floral patterns.
Elegant and stylish, accessories inspired by the connection between the places we live in and the journeys we dream to make, our love for the city and our need to escape. Fine, innovative objects, men’s items with an original design, luxury creations symbolising the pros of belonging to a tribe of free spirits.
A brand based in London and on the Devon Coast; Lamler approaches a new generation of cosmopolitan men with its country/city outerwear. A flawless combination of traditional British hand-crafted savoir-faire passed down through the generations and a casual style. Influenced by contemporary art, street style and sportswear, a range of hand-made trench coats, loyal companions on any rainy summer day.
This luxury lifestyle brand for men from London has the travel bug in its DNA; it presents an elegant line of travel accessories in high quality leather. The new collection is designed for the stylish globetrotter: design meets practicality, the compact look and manageable nature of the objects make them easy to use and the compartments are created to accommodate any kind of technological device.
Individuality and self-expression, alongside the celebration of differences: these are the keystones of the thought behind Nosakhari London.Each product has a story to tell, in a range that spans from the business bag to the tote, clutch and other accessories for today’s creative businessmen and urban nomads.
Design blends with the contemporary quest for comfort in the footwear collection lovingly designed by Japanese designer Ryuta Komatsu and made by hand; its main characteristics are a meticulous attention to detail and the use of exceptional leathers. The cult pieces in the collection include the monk bag, a modern take on a timeless classic for men, but the real difference lies in the fit.
@POP UP STORES
A journey through Istanbul and Shanghai: from the domes of the mosques and the Ottoman palaces to the terracotta horses of Xi’an and the dragons of the Forbidden City. These are the images through which the creativity of designer Begüm Khan moves. Animals, architectural elements and original symbols of prosperity combine with colours from the world of ancient art in a collection of jewel-cufflinks especially designed for the modern-day dandy.
The theme of the SS18 collection is “Wave”, a motif that carries the scent of freedom and adventure, evoking the ancient Japanese tradition of seeking a bright future by riding the ocean waves. A full range of knitwear, t-shirts, jacquard sweaters and jackets, all sporting wave prints and entirely hand-made.
Fruit of the creativity of two sisters, Pinar and Deniz, a project set in a world made of beauty and love for the earth. Each scarf is a unique item, hand-painted and printed on silk or cotton; the edge is hand-rolled and decorated using the characteristic technique of the traditional Turkish art of Oya, in collaboration with a UNDP project designed to promote the economic development of women in Southern-Eastern Turkey. The brand also presents a range of cotton foulards, bandanas, scarfs and pocket-handkerchiefs.