Pitti Uomo concludes with signs of recovery:
foreign visitors up more than 12%, total buyer attendance up 6%
And a very positive atmosphere for Pitti W as well
The 78th edition of Pitti Uomo has just closed its doors at the Fortezza da Basso, launching strong signals that the recovery has started, and that during the past few days here in Florence the international fashion community has heard them clearly. The exhibitors who decided to preview their new collections and projects (1,047 collections in all – an unprecedented record for Pitti Uomo and Pitti_W) said so too, but above all, it’s the numbers that say the most. Here are the final attendance figures for this edition:
a total of 19,200 buyers
+ 6% compared to the June 2009 edition
6,900 foreign buyers (+ 12%),
12,300 Italian buyers (+ 3%)
more than 32,000 visitors overall
“The figures, the business contacts registered in the stands, the opinions we heard”, says Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine, “as well as the huge amount of international media attention over the last few days – thanks also to the presence of big names like Jil Sander, Haider Ackermann and American artist Andrea Zittel, add up to a good dose of confidence, especially for the Italian fashion industry, the main player at our fair, which has always been strongly export-oriented. It was possible to feel a fresh air, a desire for modernization and renewal, in terms of both the collections and image of the over 1,000 brands at the Fortezza: there was a strong appetite for change, undoubtedly influenced by the renewed layout of the Main Pavilion, designed by Patricia Urquiola, as well as the new My Factory section, and the many special projects premiered in Florence. All these innovations were greatly appreciated by members of the trade and have encouraged us to continue investing in updating our fair format and carrying out international scouting activities for the latest collections”. And not to forget the great work that has been doing with Who is on Next? Uomo, the competition dedicated to new Italian talents on menswear.
The data on foreign buyers are another important signal of how the international markets are approaching a recovery. At Pitti Uomo, all the major foreign markets registered an increase in numbers, with double digit increases for Spain (+ 16%), United Kingdom (+ 33%), United States (+ 13%), Russia (+ 36%), China and Hong Kong, South Korea, Turkey, Belgium and Austria; while the number of buyers from Japan, France and Holland rose by single figures. There were also noteworthy performances on the parts of Canada, Sweden, Norway, Ukraine, Brazil, Middle Eastern countries and many new markets.
With regard to the top sixteen countries, Germany once again came out on top in absolute terms (with 862 buyers), followed by Spain (633), Japan (617), Great Britain (461), Holland (445), France (437), China (360), Turkey (297), Belgium (270), South Korea (251), Switzerland (236), Austria (207), Russia (195), United States (177), Portugal (138), Greece (130) and Hong Kong (107).
There was also general satisfaction and a great atmosphere at the Dogana for Pitti W Woman Precollection n.6, which had around 4,400 visitors, confirming the levels registered at last summer’s edition.
All the most important international buyers visited the event dedicated to women’s precollections and greatly appreciated the product proposals from the 75 exhibiting companies who have told us that – over the four days of the event – they took some important orders and achieved some very positive results.
Here are some of the comments we heard from buyers at Pitti Uomo:
Roberta Valentini, proprietor of Penelope (boutique), Brescia (Italy):
“The atmosphere at Pitti is lively, there are lots of buyers and the stands are filled with people. As soon as I got here I was drawn to the new section, My Factory: amusing, very easy and very street. I like this young spirit. When I work a fair, I want to be relaxed and like the fact that the novelties practically come to me, by themselves, without having to hunt for them. And it seems that this is exactly what this edition of Pitti Uomo has accomplished”.
Polat Uyal, Chief Merchandising Officer of the Beymen department stores (Turkey):
“I have been coming to the fair for fifteen years. In our luxury stores we try to astound our customers, to give them that something extra that will make them come back to us, we try to offer them a lifestyle. Not just clothes and things to wear, but a real lifestyle, and Pitti has always been an excellent source for this.”
Anna Porret, men’s accessories buyer Le Bon Marché (France):
“It’s a perfect production, the fair is very clear and easy to work thanks to the new layout designed by Patricia Urquiola. You don’t feel the stress of the current economic situation: the atmosphere is filled with optimism. Lots of sartorial and casual offerings: I saw a big comeback for khaki and greens, as well as perfectly cut lightweight jackets that fit like shirts”.
Lanita Layton, Vice President, GMM Holt Renfrew (Canada):
“I have been coming to Pitti for twenty years: it’s the essential tool for understanding what direction the market is moving in; here you can find a full picture. You can see lots of interesting new things more or less everything, but Pitti is the only fair with a real approach to tailoring. And I like the way Pitti has refreshed some areas: change is important and the fair is keeping step with the times, it’s evolving continuously.”
Maurizio Purificato, buyer for Antonia (boutique). Milan (Italy):
“We go to all the fairs and all the showrooms in Milan and Paris, but the selection at Pitti is more contemporary than elsewhere. I liked the style at the L’Altro Uomo section: easy, with a street look, yet in sophisticated fabrics – a perfect mix and match between sartorial allure and the Northern European/Japanese look. Attractive novelties at the Pop Up Stores, and interesting accessories brands at New Beat(s). And, personally, I find the many fuori salone (outside the fair) events extremely interesting, they let you see the merchandise in different contexts”.
Nick Wooster, Men’s Fashion Director, Neiman Marcus (United States):
“A very stimulating atmosphere, there is lots of energy flowing around the collections. The new section, My Factory and the debuts at New Beat(s) are very interesting. For me it’s important to see how American brands and icons are reinterpreted by different cultures and are seen through new eyes. Florence is a magic city: yesterday I was at the Haider Ackermann and Jil Sander show, two marvelous events”.
Tomohiko Taya, Chief Representative, Takashimaya (Japan):
“You can feel the recovery, there is optimism. People need to understand how to deal with the market again, and Pitti is very important in this. Right now the exchange rate is favorable for Japan, and the economic has come back to life since March-April”
Laura Karam, Men’s Buyer, Coorleone Company (Spain):
“This is my first time at Pitti Uomo. There are lots of people, I like the layout. I noticed a strong vintage trend, in both materials and shapes. I am seeing many contemporary brands that I find interesting”.
Elie Bejjani, Men’s Buyer, Aïshti (Lebanon):
“We have multi-brand stores dedicated to dress wear, and others specializing in casual and street styles, so we are interested in all of the fair’s sections. I was impressed by many different brands: such as the many T-shirt offerings – same concept but in different colors. I like the area dedicated to emerging names: giving more space to young firms is an excellent idea and I fully agree with it.