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PITTI UOMO N.76: AT THE FORTEZZA DA BASSO WILLING A RECOVERY AND HUGE ATTENTION ON THE PRODUCT IN THE OFFERINGS FROM THE 900 VENDORS
The 76th edition of Pitti Uomo (Florence, 16-19 June 2009) concluded by highlighting the desire amongst members of the trade to speak up, the widespread awareness amongst the various players of the importance of working as a system, sharing objectives and strategies to support the recovery of the international fashion trade. “During the four days of the fair we perceived a great deal of commitment to producing quality fashions”, says Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine, “the companies showed collections strongly focused on research in materials and fit, made for a demanding audience that is willing to spend in exchange for real value. The exhibitors told us that they spoke to international buyers who came to Florence with a positive and concrete attitude and who worked intensely to find the right products for their stores, they sat down to write orders and make budget commitments, defying the slowdown in consumer spending and betting on a strong and widespread will to recovery. The figures on visitor attendance at this edition are very good, and if we combine them with the quality of the buyers, our exhibitors indeed have good reasons for confidence. Obviously, no one is covering up the difficulties of the times, and of consumer spending that is still lagging, but most operators showed that they were reacting with forward-looking strategies and we, at Pitti, are already working to strengthen the overall offer, to find new ways of presenting the collections, to improve our services and make it easier to participate in the fair”.
The final turnout at Pitti Uomo came to about 8,700 stores (a fall of 8% with respect to the last summer edition) for a total of more than 18,000 registered buyers. In excess of 30,000 people visited the show over the four days of the event. The Italian market held well. “When we look at buyer attendance”, continues Raffaello Napoleone, “we have to remember that quality distribution is becoming more concentrated worldwide. This means that – at a par rate of final consumption – the winning sales outlets, the ones that always come to Pitti Uomo, are becoming even bigger, they buy and invoice more and more. This process will continue over the next few years and should not scare us, on the contrary, it is a sign of market rationalization. We, along with our governments, should worry instead about getting consumption going again!”
German takes the lead (929 buyers) among the top sixteen countries, and is followed by Japan (593), Spain (547), Holland (422), France (411), Great Britain (346), Switzerland (278), China (234), Turkey (229), Belgium (218), Greece (203), Austria (178), South Korea (176), United States (156), Russia (143), Portugal (129) and Denmark (100).
And, finally, we have to mention the great success with the press and public of “Pitti People”, the theme of this edition which made the visitors the protagonists of the event through photos taken by a group of young photo-bloggers, as well as the attention paid to the special events – the Undercover fashion show in the Boboli Gardens, the performance by the Proenza Schouler designers at Villa La Petraia, the winners of the first edition of the WHO IS ON NEXT?/UOMO competition for young talents in men’s fashions … along with the over 100 events held at the Fortezza and around the city during these four special days.
Here are a few comments from buyers at Pitti Uomo 76:
Oscar Parella Sagarra, proprietor of the Oscar Parella fashion store, Costa Brava (Spain):
”I am leaving this Pitti Uomo with the feeling that the atmosphere is positive, notwithstanding the budget problems that many firms are facing. Orders will be prudent, of course, but the overall impression is that the companies are rolling up their sleeves to offer a quality and increasing concrete product”.
Yoritsugu Negaki, general manager of the Japanese colossus Raika Co. LtD:
“We greatly appreciated the selected theme for this edition – Pitti People – it seemed a perfect portrayal of the Pitti universe. The fair is a global lifestyle offering, the most unique overview [of fashion] in the world that features the styles and trends of today’s man, and it is nice that the participants can see and feel that they are truly part of this world”.
Lee Leonard, buyer for DLS Apparel Group, New York:
“It seemed like an edition filled with ideas, I heard lots of positive opinions about the fashion offer, about the new settings at the stands and the general layout. Pitti Uomo presents a 360° view that encompasses classic, informal and avant-garde, and the itinerary is clearly legible even though there are so many brands. It’s the right place to come and choose what items to put in our stores and how to show them.”
Alessandra Dainelli, owner of the Alessandra Dainelli Creative fashion consulting studio
“At this edition I noticed that areas are even more specifically identified and I felt a new energy in the projects presented by the new contemporary elegance brands: a look that will be a winner from the commercial standpoint as well. Touch! is more avant-garde than ever; Futuro Maschile is continuing its growth and L’Altro Uomo is increasingly sophisticated and experimental. I also found interesting concepts in urban and sportswear, with lots of colors and research on materials such as the ultra-lightweight nylons that are beautiful to look at and a pleasure to wear”.