Walk Through:
Tailorings Come Back
Edition 100
Tied by a unified style story, Walk Through is a themed focus on key pieces from brands exhibiting on Pitti Connect’s digital platform.

Second in line in our Pitti Walk Through selection, we place the spotlight on one of the season’s major recurring sartorial motifs: tailoring. Needless to say, tailoring has enduringly been a trademark of quality menswear, showcasing a discreet celebration of detail, and an approach to luxury which is subtle and effective rather than boisterous. 

Tailoring’s return as a celebrated craft does not come without some novelty in its iterations — as a result of the lockdown, comfort and functionality are now being prioritized, allowing for a wide variety of malleable patterns, cuts, and fabrics, smoothly blending in with streetwear and casual looks, to emerge and introduce the next generation of tailoring figureheads. A range of fresh, contemporary brands are now redefining the meaning, look, and purpose(s) of tailored menswear. Here’s our non-exhaustive round-up. 

Founded in the 1990s by Italian knitwear connoisseur Bruno Manetti, the designer’s namesake label slowly began to emerge from its modest Florentine family business headquarters, branching out towards the rest of the world, today on display at showrooms ranging from Milan and Düsseldorf to New York. From elegant cashmere loungewear to classic sweater cuts purporting to stylishly embody a refined business-casual look, the brand is a go-to for savvily tailored everyday attire. 

The brainchild of siblings Giulia and Aldo Acchiardi, Harris Wharf was founded in 2010. Ever since, the London-based brand has established itself as an emerging household name for all lovers of elegant, understated British style. For SS22, the label offers a minimalistic take on workwear, with a new range of chore jackets and overshirts in twill, linen hopsack, and water repellent technical jersey fabrics. The collection was designed to express a sense of practicality coupled with a pared-back aesthetic, epitomizing Harris Wharf’s trademark modern take on classic utility wear.  This season’s coats and outerwear jackets experiment with a variety of shades from brights to earthy colors, often combining them into bi-color pieces — maintaining originality whilst celebrating the discreet, noble and subdued DNA of classic London tailoring. 

Another brand to watch in the realm of smoothly designed and painstakingly tailored casualwear, Gran Sasso was born from the entrepreneurial spirit of the Di Stefano family. Today a respected player in the knitwear niche, the brand’s appeal, and loyal clientele is enduringly solidified by its high-quality fabrics and commitment to keeping the production chain manual. (Every product is entirely handmade, with elaborate craftsmanship techniques to ensure the uniqueness of each individual piece.)

The Tuscan company founded in 1948 has never aimed to follow trends — instead, it always prioritized the long-lasting quality, sturdiness, and class of simple, understated, and durable garments. As such, its raincoats epitomize timeless chic, which vividly comes through upon observation of their refined selection of fabrics, sharp cuts, and classic color palette adapted to the ever-moving modern silhouette. 

Designed for the fashionable, poised, and detail-oriented contemporary man, Alessandro Gherardi’s take on tailored casualwear visibly prizes the comfort, functionality, and elegant utilitarianism of clean cuts and painstakingly crafted silhouettes. Conveniently adaptable to a variety of settings and situations — from office to leisure outings — the Italian brand offers a selection of modular and timeless menswear suited to the fast-changing needs and tastes of the modern world. 

A new brand in spite of its subdued heritage feel, Briglia 1949 was founded in 2012. Over the past decade, it has consistently positioned itself as a name to watch in the sartorial universe of the modern-day gentleman. Working with a broad array of materials, from cotton to wool and denim, the Italian Maison brandishes sleek, casual tailoring adapted to an active lifestyle unwilling to accept comfort as an excuse for aesthetic compromise. 

Working predominantly with tailored trousers, nine:inthe:morning fuses the savoir-faire of traditional craftsmanship with a hopeful, optimistic look forward, into the future of savvily executed menswear. Maneuvering shades, patterns, materials, and fits to bring old-school tailoring nostalgics into a new, future-driven era, the brand successfully demonstrates that sartorial skill transcends all trends and vogues. 

Chromatic minimalists at heart, with a profound love and understanding of the importance of a well-tailored silhouette, Cold Laundry takes understated casual elegance and gives it a hyper-modern twist — as seen in their collections of sleek, often monochromatic and androgynous looks. 

A strong advocate of sustainable sartorial production, mfpen creates all products based on a Responsibility Hierarchy aiming to severely limit the environmental impact of their collections, which efficiently fuse minimalist streetwear, classically tailored cuts, and bold fabric juxtapositions. 

Established in 2015, and headquartered in Tokyo, Nulabel is as recent as it is aesthetically fine-tuned. The brand flatly rejects mass production and mass consumption, being an univocal advocate for slow fashion grounded in development, thorough selection, and high-quality sustainable materials. Promoting design innovation whilst maintaining a profound respect for traditional manufacturing techniques, the brand elegantly brings the notion of heritage into the contemporary age. 
Visit the business pages of the featured brands on Pitti Connect: