Vanilla and other treasures
In the Raw section, Pitti Fragranze no.16 takes stock of this exotic and enveloping essence that is the core of so many successful creations in the world of niche perfumery. With a special talk curated by MANE. Find below exhibiting brands using vanilla notes in their essences.
Vanilla, an orchid native to Central America, with its natural scent obtained from the pod after long, meticulous processing, produces fragrances with a beautiful personality. That is why RAW - the Pitti Fragranze format that showcases the most important raw materials in perfume - turns the spotlight on this ingredient, at the centre of so many perfumery creations.
At this edition RAW presents a special talk/presentation which will take place on Friday 14 September, curated by MANE - fragrances world leader French family-run company, by the Mane family for over 150 years. The event will guide visitors along the discovery of the extraordinary olfactory richness of Vanilla, with an immersive journey to Madagascar, the world’s leading producer of vanilla and other treasures from the world of raw materials.
Among the companies exhibiting at Pitti Fragranze no.16, here are some that have used vanilla notes for some of their best sellers:
Under a layer of crunchy caramel and Vanilla, GOURMANDISE fills the home with its exquisite gourmand aromas. Top notes: mandarin, orange and peach. Middle notes: jasmine and orange blossom. Base notes: caramel, vanilla, sandalwood and amber.
The rare charm of vanilla from the Comoro Islands is celebrated in Sublime Vanille by Creed. One of the most widely used ingredients in the world of fragrances, the vanilla scent is freed of its sometimes stifling notes, transforming into the quintessence of harmony in the hands of the Master Perfumer. Full-bodied yet impalpable, its scent is mixed with hints of lemon and white bergamot and melts into the sensuality of Tonkino musk. A Sublime Vanilla.
FRANCESCA BIANCHI PERFUMES
Under The Skin is the latest creation by Francesca Bianchi, an Italian nose based in Amsterdam. After Angel’s Dust, The Dark Side and Sex and the Sea, this fragrance once again confirms a passionate, sensual soul. The animal theme is interpreted in a velvety, elegant way, with an enveloping exotic note created through the use of Tonka bean, vanilla and a variety of woods.
A London Fragrance House founded by Nick Steward, Gallivant stands for urban exploration. It picks upon the vibes of the world’s hottest metropolitan destinations. ISTANBUL, created with Karine Chevallier is an amber-tinged, woody, spicy scent: where two continents and two cultures meet. It has a fresh and aromatic opening with notes of bergamot, cardamom and red thyme. This segues into a woody heart and then a base of sandalwood, vanilla, Tonka bean and other precious ingredients.
Vanhera, signed by the nose Luca Maffei, is a journey around a unique ingredient. It's a vanilla scent indeed, but not a fragrance in which the sweet notes of vanilla are enhanced. An enfleurage absolut which stands out in a universe of ingredients including pepper, cardamom, cinnamon.
LAURENT MAZZONE PARFUMS
A Baroque beauty lives inside SENSUAL & DECADENT. Mingled bodies, decadence, golden sequins and the fascination of Baroque: with a touch of modern sensuality, this perfume plays with the skin and the senses. Top notes: Lisylang, Rhubarb. Middle notes: Heliotropium, Labdanum. Base notes: Oud, Vanilla Infusion, Spicebush
In the Les Elements collection, VANILLE Eau de Parfum is gourmand and sensual, an invitation to voluptuous exoticism. The flowery notes convey all the many different facets of the nobility of this tropical bouquet. A deliciously transgressive journey through the senses, in homage to the sweetness of the Orient. Top notes: Vanilla flowers. Middle notes: gourmand Vanilla, Caramel, and Vanilla pods. Base notes: Vanilla, Spicebush. Also in the Les Elements collection, the VANILLE PATCHOULI and VANILLE FRUITÉE fragrances
Created for the luxury market, Morph was founded when a group of young designers and entrepreneurs put their heads together. Originality is the leitmotif of all the Morph fragrances, resulting in a true Luxury Essence Experience. In particular, Axum is an intense blend of spicy and woody notes together with white musk, vanilla and ambergris. Malaga is a bouquet of violet leaves, freesia and cyclamen, accompanied by white lily and vanilla.
With Felanilla, Pierre Guillaume proposes an "adult" vanilla, not cloying, not alimentary. A nectar expressed by three absolutes sublimated in an oriental composition. A feline vanilla, under a mantle of Iris and Saffron.
PARLE MOI DE PARFUMS
Michel Almairac, the master perfumer behind the olfactory identity of so many great fashion houses (from Dior to Burberry, from Chloé to Bottega Veneta), is now the exclusive nose for Parle Moi de Parfums. From its lab in the heart of Paris, Parle Moi… presents a collection of 10 fragrances which explore the great classic ingredients in a contemporary way. From vanilla (with Flavia Vanila) to rose, iris and neroli. A new, transparent concept that reveals the various steps involved in designing and producing a scent.
Silvia Monti proposes 5 types of “curative” Vanilla. The rebel Vanilla of Gas Antisociale has the power to counter the influences of “malign narcissists”. The vertical Vanilla of Iniezione di Morfina gives a spiritual boost to the soul of the wearer. The tonic Vanilla of Essenza Miracolosa is a jus with enveloping effects that revive the spirit. The aphrodisiac Vanilla of Cantaride reawakens the forces of love in men and women. The essential Vanilla of Polvere di Etere, her latest creation, combines the secrets of nature with the search for human and celestial scents.
The SCENT BAR fragrances are labelled with numbers instead of names: nose Viola Pompili wants to give total olfactory freedom to anyone who can identify with one of these perfumes, with their own memories and emotions. For vanilla-based scents, Scentbar has created a sequence associated with a woman’s life:
103: candy floss. A girlish woman. It captures her sweetness and the sensation of a motherly embrace.
107: adolescence. Growing up, uncertainty, being undefined. Dark sides that require self-knowledge in order to shine through.
109: A woman in the prime of her life. Her heart and body speak the language of welcoming and caring for others.
600: gastronomical alchemy. A woman who, through nature, is able to offer a new interpretation of the subject.
800: sensual alchemy. The nocturnal side of woman. A harmonious form that moves through space, bringing the gift of sensuality.
Speaking of Vanilla Flash, Andy Tauer says "I wanted to create this vanilla for myself, putting everything I love: spices, roses, patchouli, tobacco and much more, and then a lot of vanilla, even Bourbon vanilla. Among my best perfumed creations ".