Roberto Menichetti

Specia guest at Pitti Uomo

Manifattura Tabacchi

The special event of Pitti Immagine Uomo n. 66 will be the world première runway showing of the Menichetti collection at the Manifattura Tabacchi in Florence on the evening of Thursday, 24 June, the opening day of the fair.

Roberto Menichetti was one of the main fashion protagonists of the ‘Nineties. First he created the men’s line for Jill Sander and then revamped the Burberry brand and look. He has recently been appointed creative director of the historic maison Celine.  The Menichetti line made its debut in New York last season, with a presentation in a photography studio located in the Meat Market area.

“The decision to hold this event in Florence – says Roberto Menichetti – is a way of highlighting the project’s dual nationality: American investment with an Italian heart and Italian creativity.  It will be a visible presentation, without any separation between the fiction and the workings in the wings”.

The Manifattura Tabacchi – the tobacco factory – a huge industrial complex erected in the ‘Thirties, is a fascinating structure and destined to become one of the main centers of the current program to relaunch artistic and cultural activities in Florence.  Purchased by Fintecna in December 2002, this is the first time that the Manifattura Tabacchi will be hosting a major fashion event.


THE EVOLUTION OF ROBERTO MENICHETTI.  FROM SPORT TO ELEGANCE

Playful elegance, sensorial rationality. Roberto Menichetti has developed his new menswear collection amidst these two concepts, like two extremes, and its premiere runway showing will be the Pitti Immagine Uomo special event, to be held at the Manifattura Tabacchi in Florence. 

The Manifattura Tabacchi – the tobacco factory – is a huge industrial complex erected in the Thirties, where tradition and modernity meet in the shapes and use of materials, and for which the list of designers includes the name of Pier Luigi Nervi, also the owner of the company that built the plant.  This is the first time that the Manifattura Tabacchi has been opened to the public and used to host a fashion event: a unique presentation, where everything is visible, with no separation between the show, the workings in the wings, the audience and the catwalk.
The choice of this particular location was the result of the precise intention to focus on one of Italy’s greatest examples of modernity from the past, rationalism, like a bridge between the past and present.
“I consider the architects who gave life to this movement to be true visionaries, capable of anticipating tastes  – says Menichetti.  And that is precisely what we, as designers, try to do.”

In fact, Roberto Menichetti’s collection showcases a new, complete personality, demonstrating that his work is constantly evolving. There are fewer of the sporty technical garments which strongly influenced his previous professional offerings. This collection contains more elegant articles, with strong Italian roots, that somehow echo the naturalness of Totò and Alberto Sordi.

Thus the line changes: the jackets are closer to the body with small, well-fitted shoulders, in the Neapolitan style. The trousers are wide, with prominent creases to emphasize the volumes. The shirts are perfect, with blue stripes, or dinner jacket shirts designed for day wear.
There is also an infinite selection of t-shirts with special patterns: zigzags, representing vibrations, dolphins which truly appear to be from another world. Even intertwined leather belts sporting butterflies.

This free and liberated fashion style finds its true expression in the colors.  A comforting range of blues, a pinch of powder pink (formal yet also very décontracté), light green, apple, softened further by crumpled Irish linen, colonial colors.  Some dark purple and bordeaux, like tropical flowers. Luxurious unconventional fabrics, such as linen wound together with very fine mohair and cotton, or grisaille …Naturalness, good breeding, sense of color: these elements define the style Menichetti calls “a synthesis of that elegant yet popular class which is all Italian”.