Fashion Diary Pitti Uomo 83
“Because fashion is not only about images but also about feelings and I will “broadcast” mine live, on a Fashion Diary that is going to be, in part, a personal diary of what I like and, in part, a journalistic report on the latest and most interesting fashion developments. I’m anxious to see the fashion shows and the major fashion trends, but also what the Italians have in store for us". - A. Mancinelli
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Learning to read men's fashion. With its codes, symbolisms, its conspiracy. Just like a book to read It is BookswearMania the theme of the 83rd edition of Pitti Immagine (8th to 11th January in Florence), who chooses the book as an icon of cultural studies to suggest the idea of a men's fashion that has never been less superficial.
Can be intuited by the selection of certain brands present in the spaces of the Fortezza da Basso, season after season of richer new Italian and foreign companies with a focus sull'artigianalità fighting the idea of a dress code approved and of lesser quality. This is confirmed by the choice of Denmark as Guest Nation for this edition of Pitti_W, with an interesting selection of designers from Copenhagen lead Nordic freshness and relevance. But it is also perceived by the special events that enrich the program of the event, paying homage to Florentine culture as more contemporary trials. It starts in fact with Ermanno Scervino, who chooses his city to present the men's collection Fall Winter 2013/2014 as well as a preview feminine, the Pre-Fall 2013, staged on 9th evening in the Salone dei Cinquecento in Palazzo Vecchio. It continues with the guest designer for this edition: the pair Leon-Lim of Kenzo and the creative duo Maison Kitsuné on Thursday 10 will be featured in two performances with a high level of creativity.
A program that is enriched by many events in the city: the exhibition Itinere (the seventh night there will be the inauguration of the Air Art Gallery), which contains the path of three leading figures of Florence, Sara Bencini, Mustafa Sabbagh and Drusilla Foer, the launch of the collection of Guillermo Mariotto, soul Gattinoni, for Nannini, vintage online presentation archive My Vintage Academy to the line of bags that A Alcantara has developed LuisaViaRoma and includes a special installation by Felice Limosani.
And the week is also rich in opening and, in keeping with the theme of the event, book signing: Marithé and François Girbaud have their first single / biography, Emilio Pucci in his palace hosts the launch of Decades: A Century of Fashion Cameron Silver, while Marina Yatching, Stone Island and Fendi (which for the occasion has also created a special bag and a fur coat) celebrate the opening of their new boutique.
#Day 1Back to top
A reloaded gentleman. Forward-looking tailoring. A modern spirit in an atelier that speaks of anti-global elegance. Craftsmanship has an identifying power that is a statement of belonging: to certain cultures, certain places, certain ways of being and appearing. With a style that also embraces emotions. With colors and layers in a dandyism that accepts the challenge of moving into day-to-day extravagance. With the softness of materials that come out into the open (knit outerwear, loden trench coats) to present a winter surprise in over 50 shades. And very little gray. It is not a reinterpretation of the classic, but rather a translation into a super-contemporary language.
4us by Cesare Paciotti
Drive & City by Borgioli
Hunting Packet Woolrich WP Lavori in Corso
MP di Massimo Piombo
Woolrich WP Lavori in Corso
#Day 2Back to top
“Primal Futurism”. These are the words that Japanese designer Yoshinori Ono uses to define a silhouette that is virile, cosmopolitan, energetic and “primitive”, in other words made for now. New talent, Erïk Bjerkesjö is the star of “Craftsmanship for Novel Ambition” (the phrase coined by Suzy Menkes who received the Gold Florin from the city of Florence today). It is a celebration of the hero of everyday life whose dreams take him to the world of sports and a nostalgic je ne sais quoi (mock-vintage snow boots, the over-boots that were the rage at Gstaad in the 1950s, prints featuring landscapes, leaves and animals). It is like the quest for a goal – in competition sports as well: tech fabrics disguised by “natural” textures, technological materials that create deliberately bygone shapes, ultramodern solutions to satisfy that renewed need for tenderness. It’s the time for an ecology of feelings and for a vital force that triggers not competition, but desire.
Folder with internal mosaic Venezia
HARRIS OF LONDON
PRINTED TEXTURE BLAZER W-D MAN
SNEAKER ONITSUKA TIGER
#Day 3Back to top
Mash-up come nuova procedura d'urgenza estetica. Il futuro attira su di sé ispirazioni diverse, come una calamita del Bello che avanza: evaporano i confini geografici, culturali, temporali. Che vanno a colonizzare l'esistente, rinnovano il già visto, cancellano la noia. Entra in scena uno humour d'alto rango che fa sorridere l'eleganza e parte in quarta per dilagare ai collari per cani, ai cappelli (s)componibili, agli occhiali da maschera fetish di "Eyes Wide Shut". Creazioni mutanti, poliformi e multitasking, dove trionfa la coincidenza degli opposti. La forma segue la funzione e la funzione è ben lieta di danzare con la forma. L'ornamento non è più un delitto, ma un diletto (con buona pace di Adolf Loos). La memoria è solo uno dei modi e delle mode per interpretare i tempi che verranno. E la trama dei tessuti diventa sinonimo di un racconto personale che mette in connessione l'anima con la la globalità del pianeta. Da Pitti arriva un messaggio che arriveremmo a definire "politico" prima che "ufficiale": quello di un un ottimismo ragionevole e ragionante. Rinasce un uomo con una forte identità, che dialoga ben volentieri con quelle degli altri. Ognuno fiero delle proprie radici, ognuno curioso di conoscere quelle di chi lo circonda. Pitti Happy Ending? No. Pitti New Beginning.
Fida Luxury Collars
Masaki Kyoto Homme
Rivisitation of an Armani Trench